Begginer advice?

[Guest]

Hi all,

I am new to modelling with an airbrush but I have done a few models with normal brushes. Can anyone please give me some tips for painting a model with an airbrush (paints to use, what to/not to do, painting techniques etc.). Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

scale_modler99

[BarryW]

Hi welcome to the forum, you have come to the right place...... it would be a good idea to put your name in the details so we know what to call you!!

For paints I would suggest Vallejo Model Air for the airbrush simply because they have been developed for an a/b and you will not necessarily have to thin them. That said it does depend on a number of other factors and some thinning may be necessary depending on things like needle size/air pressure/humidity etc. There are effects for which you will want thinner paint as well. Overall though you should find Vallejo acrylics a good starting point and they have a good range (available from the shop associated with this site).

You should read through posts on the forum under painting and weathering to get tips on how to use an airbrush but the real secret is to practise. It does take some patience and a fair bit of practise to get the hang of it but it is well worth it.

For an airbrush you might want to start out with a cheap Chinese 'knock-off' before getting something better. which was what I did. I also suggest splashing out of a compressor as using canned air gets expensive over time. My compressor is an AS186 and has done good service now for nearly 3 years and is very cheap. You can get these quite cheaply. http://www.everythingairbrush.com/compressors/ab-as186-mini-piston-type-0n-demand-compressor-with-receiver-for-airbrushing.html

The above can be obtained in a set with a cheap airbrush.

In respect of an airbrush:

I suggest a gravity feed as being most suitable for modelling rather than syphon fed from a bottle under the a/b, double action as well.

I also suggest a needle size of 0.35 or 0.4 as most appropriate.

Air pressure - I spray mostly at about 25psi but sometimes turn down the pressure to 15psi for some jobs or up to 30psi. I never spray higher than that.

I use a Harder & Steenbeck Evo but John at Scale Modelshop has some Iwata Neo's that are apparently a good lower cost option (but a bit more than the Chinese knock-offs).

I hope that helps. I am sure others will say more - remember when you get a set-up practise and practise.....

[Guest]

Hi mate, firstly welcome to the forum and I'm from Australia as well. YAY!

Secondly, could you please tell us what AB you have and lastly, as my recommendation, choose the Gunze sangyo (Mr Hobby) aqueous colours. It thins well with cellulose thinner or Tamiya X-20A. It is a great paint which has a smooth finish when airbrushed. Also, if you can afford it, after you get the MR hobby stuff, try using tamiya's paints. It is great stuff, but I personally think Mr hobby is better. Vallejo is also a good paint, but a bit expensive here in Australia.

In terms of Airbrushes, I use an Iwata neo. I got it off ebay at a great price (70 dollars australian including poastage). For Natural metal finishes or metallic finishes use alclad. Please DO NOT think that it is tricky stuff to use. It isn't! Some modellers treat it like a dark art, but it really isn't. It is one of the easiest finishes to use with an AB. If you have problems with it, ask around here and you willl get tons of friendly advice. Also, please tell us your christian name so we do not need to call you by your username.

John

[stona]

I reckon that's all pretty good advice above, not much to add.

Whatever set up you do invest in there really is no substitute for practice. It's not like learning to play the piano You just need to play about with your airbrush, compressor, paints and thinners to work out what works for you. Do not be afraid of upping the pressure. Once you find what works you should be able to use those 'settings' to do any sort of spraying.

Good luck and you'll always get some friendly advice here. Don't forget to have fun with your model making.

Cheers

Steve

[tanktrack]

hi welcome to the site your choice of paint is like your airbrush -down to personal viewpoint , I use Vallejo as they are readily available , i tend to thin my Vallejo air paint as well as the Vallejo colour just to get it through the brush , Tamiya are good paints but slightly thicker than the Vallejo , as your fellow country man John says you may just have to try what you can afford and what is about locally .

3 points of advice I would give are 1 practice practice

2 know you brush ie be able to strip it and clean it - you usually get a picture of the brake down

3 always use a branded cleaner/thinner for the type of paint you are using , it saves trouble in the long run ,you can use water/screenwahes to clean airbrushes but the brand for brand works for me .

give it a go and enjoy it .

[Guest]

Very fine advice here.

Just add an extra. Stuff that comes out of your airbrush will also atomize into the air which you will breath in.

Vallejo Model Air is non toxic a lot of other paints are not including a number of the Vallejo Model paints. So best thing is to buy a good nose mask. The type with a removable filter. Good manufacturers type cast different filters for different mixtures solvents etc.

Even with non toxic the paint and solvents still penetrate into the lungs. Very nasty.

Laurie

[Guest]

All good advice and I have nothing else to add other than hello and welcome to the friendliest forum on the Internet.

[monica]

hello and welcome, whats been said is great advice and helped me alot,

and nice to see another Australia, hear ,very friendly and great guys who are very helpful

[Guest]

..... and lastly, as my recommendation, choose the Gunze sangyo (Mr Hobby) aqueous colours. It thins well with cellulose thinner or Tamiya X-20A.......John

I'm confused. I didn't think that an aqueous paint could be thinned by using cellulose thinner, but I might be wrong.

As for advice on airbrushing, I found it didn't go well at first: sputtering, blockages, uneven coat. But, in some miraculous way that I have noticed in other manual crafts, it came alright after a couple of months of practice. Fo beginners, water-based (aqueous) paints are easier to use than enamels and lacquers because the airbrush can be cleaned with water whereas the other types of paint need a smelly and sometimes hazardous solvent.

Hold the airbrush about 4 inches from the part and practice, practice, practice. After every session partly disassemble the airbrush (nozzle, aircap, needle) and clean with airbrush cleaner, to avoid blockages. An airbrush gives wonderfully smooth finishes, although skilled modellers using a brush can get very good results. As you get better results, remove dust and hairs from the part using a tack cloth, avoid a dusty atmosphere (obviously) and cover the part immediately to avoid dust and hairs falling on it when wet.

[flyjoe180]

I use enamels. Get a mask from your local hardware shop which prevents solvent inhalation, spray in a well ventilated area and you will be okay. Toxic or not I wear a mask whenever I am spraying anything. As for practice, nothing beats it. Use old plastic soft drink bottles and practice on those first, try different settings and patterns on it. I also used ice cream containers for this purpose.

[Guest]

I'm confused. I didn't think that an aqueous paint could be thinned by using cellulose thinner, but I might be wrong.As for advice on airbrushing, I found it didn't go well at first: sputtering, blockages, uneven coat. But, in some miraculous way that I have noticed in other manual crafts, it came alright after a couple of months of practice. Fo beginners, water-based (aqueous) paints are easier to use than enamels and lacquers because the airbrush can be cleaned with water whereas the other types of paint need a smelly and sometimes hazardous solvent.

Hold the airbrush about 4 inches from the part and practice, practice, practice. After every session partly disassemble the airbrush (nozzle, aircap, needle) and clean with airbrush cleaner, to avoid blockages. An airbrush gives wonderfully smooth finishes, although skilled modellers using a brush can get very good results. As you get better results, remove dust and hairs from the part using a tack cloth, avoid a dusty atmosphere (obviously) and cover the part immediately to avoid dust and hairs falling on it when wet.

The mr hobby thinners reek like cellulose..... Anyway, up to you.

John

[stona]

I use enamels.

Oh no Joe! That's a can of worms. I too use enamels, though I have flirted with various acrylic paints. I fully understand why people move to acrylics but in my experience of both, enamels are MUCH easier to use. Most importantly they are more tolerant of my somewhat approximate (that looks about right) thinning methods. I also like the longer drying time, it gives me a chance to really look at and reflect on the finish and make appropriate adjustments.

It's a case of each to their own, there are pros and cons to both categories, but I know which I prefer

A quick H+S comment. One should really wear a mask for any spraying. Just because you can't see or smell something doesn't mean that it isn't there. I'm fortunate enough to have a really good booth/extractor but still mask up for anything other than touch ups or very minimal spraying.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

I fully understand why people move to acrylics but in my experience of both, enamels are MUCH easier to use. Steve

Strange Steve how diametrically opposed to statements one can sometimes be.

Laurie

[stona]

Strange Steve how diametrically opposed to statements one can sometimes be. Laurie

Well yes, but usually people don't profess to have moved to acrylics because they find them easier to use. They usually move to, or choose acrylics due to other factors and number one, time and time again in my experience, is the lack of odour both from the acrylic products themselves and the solutions needed for cleaning.

Check the number of questions posed by acrylic users relating to blockages ( usually paint drying at the airbrush tip) and poor or weak finishes (a 'sandy' finish due to paint drying as it heads for the model and paint being lifted by masking) and compare that to similar questions from enamel users. You won't find many of either about enamels.

I have NEVER had a blockage at the nozzle of any of my airbrushes whilst using enamels over decades and it would seem it is an extremely rare occurrence for others too.

I'm certainly not trying to convert anybody to either medium, I'm just saying why I am in the enamel camp. Everyone has to find what works for them and what suits them best. The odour of enamel paints and solvents may be a determining factor, particularly for the latter. Many people have to spray indoors with limited facilities and in areas where other family members or pets might be exposed to the fumes. I am lucky enough not to have to worry about this, another reason why I still prefer enamels.

Whatever you choose the most important thing is to practice to improve and master the medium.....and have fun doing it!

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Can only speak for myself on Acrylics and how I find them Steve. I doubt if I would have continued model making if I had continued to use enamel. I found it a most difficult media for numerous reasons.

Acrylics I took to from the first time I used them. For me they were a revelation as I found them easy to use and easy to clean up easier to manipulate. They are kinder if you make a mistake which for a beginner and expert alike.

But all this is as that horrid word "subjective". For any beginner I would suggest they get some acrylics and some enamel and use them to see which they like best. Also to look at what acrylics and enamels will do for you in the the chosen path of model making. Opposite ends of the spectrum military armour to high gloss motor cars.

Also the artistic nature of the chosen type of models. The aids that either acrylics or enamels have for weathering etc. Also patience. Some on this forum produce models at an alarming rate scale acrylics or enamels ? Patience comes into this. Can you wait for enamels to dry or do you second coat acrylics in 30 mins.

On the blockage of airbrushes I suspect that most are caused by poor maintenance and cleaning. Plus knowing your airbrush with a matched needle nozzle for the medium you are using. With the present airbrush in 6 months one blockage and my fault a new airbrush and poor attention to detail. But an H & S brush 4 mins for a deep clean up and running for the second coat of acrylics. enamels drying time ?

Laurie