Painting by airbrush, what is required...?

[Guest]

Looking to buy an airbrush, compressor and accessories. I'm a complete beginner in this area and know next to nothing, I'd like some advice of what products would suit best?


Thanks

[Guest]

Start out with non expensive stuff Mark and then as you progress and if you enjoy it you can go up to the more expensive. Talk to John who owns the shop and he will put you on the right track

[Guest]

Start out with non expensive stuff Mark and then as you progress and if you enjoy it you can go up to the more expensive. Talk to John who owns the shop and he will put you on the right track

Thanks for the reply  would it not be better to buy equipment which is more middle of the road rather than budget gear or high end stuff? I quite like the idea of a compressor which is versatile in that the pressure is adjustable.

[Guest]

Yes middle of the road mate as some budget stuff will put you off for life B| . Adjustable compressor is a must as certain paints spray better at different pressures! It really is each to his own when it comes to nozzle sizes and spray pressures but a great idea (which is not mine) is to save a load of empty milk cartons and learn to spray on them

[Neil]

Mark - start saving a few 2 litre pop bottles - excellent for practice. 


John did me a decent deal though I think the AB itself is along the lines of acrylics/enamels - there are opinions good and bad on all. I have an H&S which I have only used a few times so far but seemed very straightforward. I started with a model rather than bottles but that is only because it is a single colour of desert yellow, I do need to practice with throughput and spread with some bottles before tackling real cammo though.


On a quick attempt I have to say that I am going to enjoy using an AB in the main and brushes for detail.

[Guest]

Mark your best bet for a decent starter compressor is the AS 186 which comes with a tank. The pressure regulator gives a wide range of control, from 5 - 50 PSI. The tank reduces the strain on the motor & helps prevent pulsing.


For airbrushes, the sky's the limit... or whatever your wallet can stand! If you want to keep it simple, the Fenghua airbrush that John sells in the Scale Model Shop is very good and way outperforms its cheap price.


Midrange a good AB is the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra with their Infinity as a more expensive alternative.

[BarryW]

Mark - I second Patrick about the AS186 as a good starter compressor which should be available at well under £100.  I started with one that lasted neary 4 years before I replaced it with something a bit more expensive.


I also agree about Harder and Steenbeck airbrushes.  They are among the easiest to strip down and clean and there are plenty of interchangeable spares.


The Ultra is a good starter a/b but for somethig better I would suggest the Evolution which is between the Ultra and the Infinity.  I use the Evo and see no need for a more expensive one.  You can get different needle sets that can be interchangeble for these.  Do not get the 0.15 needle as that is too fine for most model paints.  Many people work with the 0.2 needle but I prefer the 0.4 needle for 90% of my spraying and use the 0.2 just for the finer work.


Then you come to paints....


I recommend using paints that are made for airbrushing as they have a finer pigment.  Vallejo Model Air is a good starting point as they have a wide colour range.  These can be sprayed unthinned with the 0.4 needle which saves a lot of the learning curve.....  You do need to thin a bit for the 0.2 and some people (not me) like to thin them for preference anyway.  Thin them with Vallejo thinners for best overall results.

[stona]

Sound advice above.


I would just add that you will probably be looking for a spray booth/ extraction system unless you are spraying in wide open spaces, and you should invest in the correct mask to protect yourself. Although our typical exposure to fumes and particulates is relatively small as 'hobby sprayers', and painting models is not an inherently dangerous pastime, there is no point in taking chances with your health.


The investment in setting up to spray is one of the largest most of us make in the hobby, but it is an investment in equipment that should last for many, many years. At least one of my airbrushes is over twenty years old, and it still works as well as ever, albeit with a few replacement bits. My spray booth must be at least ten years old and has only needed a couple of replacement filters in that time. Masks, or their filters, do need replacing more often but this is not a big expense.


Cheers


Steve

[Steve Brodie]

I have the AS186 compressor and its doing just fine, bit noisy but ti gives constant set pressure for the brush. I also had a cheap Chinese airbrush , came as a set, lasted about 6-7 sprays and then - Nothing. nothing would spray not even water, stripped it down many times but always blocked, so thinking it would be a good move I purchased a Neo by Iwata, that lasted about 6 months, took it to the model show at telford and spoke to the airbrush company and the nozzle was split !, £18 for a new nozzle or £22 for a new airbrush with 3 extra needles/nozzles so went for that one. touch wood I have not had a problem with it at all since last November and its had some hammering, but still going strong.


Ohh other thing, make sure you use thinner and paint by the same manufacturer. Tamiya paints and Vallejo thinners makes a nasty gooey, sticky mess which is a right PITA to get out and cleaned LOL.

[Guest]

Yes middle of the road mate as some budget stuff will put you off for life B| . Adjustable compressor is a must as certain paints spray better at different pressures! It really is each to his own when it comes to nozzle sizes and spray pressures but a great idea (which is not mine) is to save a load of empty milk cartons and learn to spray on them

I could get hold of plastic milk bottles, however would clear plastic water bottles work just as well?


I bought an airbrush kit back in the late 80 s. The Kit was made by Humbrol and required aerosols to power it. It was cheap and I wasn't happy with the results, despite experimenting with different nozzles and ratio of paint things didn't work out. It seemed to splutter and splatter the paint as opposed to fine consistent spray.

[Guest]

Mark - start saving a few 2 litre pop bottles - excellent for practice. 


John did me a decent deal though I think the AB itself is along the lines of acrylics/enamels - there are opinions good and bad on all. I have an H&S which I have only used a few times so far but seemed very straightforward. I started with a model rather than bottles but that is only because it is a single colour of desert yellow, I do need to practice with throughput and spread with some bottles before tackling real cammo though.


On a quick attempt I have to say that I am going to enjoy using an AB in the main and brushes for detail.

I would imagine that most of the airbrushes usage will see the painting of model cars.


I bought many of the Revell, AMT, and Monogram kits back in the 80 s as a child. Hot Rod s and Muscle Car s really held an interest.


Time passed and thankfully I now have the real thing However I had not forgetten the enjoyment that building those plastic model kits brought, and so here I am decades later returning to an old but fulfilling hobby, and unlike the real thing doesn't cost me a fortune in petrol (9 mpg). 


I always used Humbrol Enamel paints, I'm guessing their still available? I kinda like the idea of mixing out the thinners and paint. Is their an advantage of acrylic over enamel?

[Guest]

Mark your best bet for a decent starter compressor is the AS 186 which comes with a tank. The pressure regulator gives a wide range of control, from 5 - 50 PSI. The tank reduces the strain on the motor & helps prevent pulsing.


For airbrushes, the sky's the limit... or whatever your wallet can stand! If you want to keep it simple, the Fenghua airbrush that John sells in the Scale Model Shop is very good and way outperforms its cheap price.


Midrange a good AB is the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra with their Infinity as a more expensive alternative.

Thanks  


The A S 186 seems to be a good starting point then. Ideally I'd like to buy something that will suit my needs for many years to come.


The A S 186 seems to have broad offering of pressure as you mention. I've heard some say that they do upgrade, may I ask why? Surely there isn't that much to a compressor?

[Steve Brodie]

I always used Humbrol Enamel paints, I'm guessing their still available? I kinda like the idea of mixing out the thinners and paint. Is their an advantage of acrylic over enamel?

yep no discernible Smell or nasty fumes when airbrushing, no nasty clean up afterwards with turps or whatever you need when using acrylics. can use plain water to clean the brush if all else fails.

[Guest]

Mark - I second Patrick about the AS186 as a good starter compressor which should be available at well under £100.  I started with one that lasted neary 4 years before I replaced it with something a bit more expensive.


I also agree about Harder and Steenbeck airbrushes.  They are among the easiest to strip down and clean and there are plenty of interchangeable spares.


The Ultra is a good starter a/b but for somethig better I would suggest the Evolution which is between the Ultra and the Infinity.  I use the Evo and see no need for a more expensive one.  You can get different needle sets that can be interchangeble for these.  Do not get the 0.15 needle as that is too fine for most model paints.  Many people work with the 0.2 needle but I prefer the 0.4 needle for 90% of my spraying and use the 0.2 just for the finer work.


Then you come to paints....


I recommend using paints that are made for airbrushing as they have a finer pigment.  Vallejo Model Air is a good starting point as they have a wide colour range.  These can be sprayed unthinned with the 0.4 needle which saves a lot of the learning curve.....  You do need to thin a bit for the 0.2 and some people (not me) like to thin them for preference anyway.  Thin them with Vallejo thinners for best overall results.

Thank you for an in depth description


Can I asked why you moved on from the A S 186? The noise doesn't really bother me, just looking to buy something which will suit my needs for years to come.


When it comes to air brushes is there massive differences in quality, design and purpose? Are some more difficult to use than others?


Never heard of Vallejo paints before, then again it's over 25 years since I've built any plastic kit. Is this paint enamel? Cleaning out the airbrush is a pain staking task?

[stona]

I always used Humbrol Enamel paints, I'm guessing their still available? I kinda like the idea of mixing out the thinners and paint. Is their an advantage of acrylic over enamel?

The acrylic v enamel debate will always generate more heat than light.


I am an enamel user, but we are probably in a diminishing minority.


The biggest advantages of acrylics are their fast drying time (not that this is relevant unless you build models to a self impose timetable)) and their lack of smell. Lack of smell does NOT equate to lack of things which it is not a good idea to breathe in, in this respect they are not much better than enamels.


The biggest draw backs are the relative fragility of some, I often see complaints about masking lifting the paint, and their propensity to dry in and clog the airbrush nozzle. Many also require fairly accurate thinning and some also seem to prefer expensive brand thinners.


The advantages of enamels are the toughness of the finish, though SOME acrylics (there are different paint types lumped under the title 'acrylic') are getting close, and ease of use. Because of the longer drying time you will never see enamel users complaining about airbrush blockages, drying at the tip etc. Enamels are also MUCH more sympathetic to approximate thinning (if it looks about right it will spray well) and to what thinner is used. I've been using cheap white spirits with three or four different brands of enamel paints for years with no problem whatsoever.


The biggest draw backs are the smell, which is understandably a deal breaker for some, and the longer drying time, if that would bother you. I can't agree that the clean up is any messier than it is for acrylics, in fact I often found acrylics, probably because they had started to dry, a lot harder to get out of the brush and certainly not shiftable with water.


Humbrol enamels are still available and their quality, which fell to almost unusable a few years ago, has improved. It is impossible to give an exact thinning ratio as everyone's set up is different and the paints vary even within a brand. I would start paint heavy, 60/40 and go from there. Most enamels spray in the 60/40-40/60 range. I spray at a minimum of 35 psi. I don't know why many spray at much lower pressures.


Cheers


Steve