Airbrushing Future (or whatever it's currently called)

[adt70hk]

Hi all

So you may remember I recently purchased a coat of Future in it's current incarnation (can't remember what it's current branding is).

I'm not far off giving it go and so have been doing some research but as usual there are a range of opinions on how it should be used through an AB and so I'd welcome your collective wisdom on the topic:

• Thinning - most people seem to use it straight from the bottle but I have seen some people thin it with IPA (by about 30% for 70% IPA) or even water.
• Cleaning - most people seem to use cellulose cleaner (i have none) but some also use IPA (I have some 99% in the cupboard)
• Needle size - one person recommended a larger needle size e.g. 0.35-0.4mm as a small needle apparently resulted in pitting for him. I've certainly found large needle sizes better from a clogging perspective with Vallejo's varnish.
• Spraying technique - unsurprisingly much like paint i.e. thin coats so the model isn't flooded. One example I saw gave it a blast of air only from the AB so dry the coats off quickly before applying the next one.

Please let me know how you use it and any tips you may have.

Thanks as always.

Andrew

[PaulTRose]

serious ppe!!

respirator and extraction as bare minimum

this is not nice stuff to breathe in!

remember this is a floor polish/wax/whatever.......its not meant to be sprayed/atomised, you are doing something its not designed for

[adt70hk]

serious ppe!!

respirator and extraction as bare minimum

this is not nice stuff to breathe in!

remember this is a floor polish/wax/whatever.......its not meant to be sprayed/atomised, you are doing something its not designed for

Thanks Paul. Spray booth and mask are on hand ready and waiting!

[colin m]

I stopped spraying it ages ago. I just use a large soft brush, keeping an eye out for bubbles and any pooling.

[Guest]

I’ve had no success in spraying it neat either and had considered brushing it instead. It either pools or floods.

I will try spraying at low pressure, close in with a reduced flow on the next attempt.

Interested to hear of others successful techniques.

[PaulTRose]

to be honest, if you want a shiny finish, use a shiny varnish

i only use kleer (the old stuff) for when i need a shiny surface for decals or a wash (soft flat brush to gently apply), or for dipping clear parts

[Tim Marlow]

I just spray it like any other varnish or paint. Same airbrush, same pressure , same needle. One thing though, it does need to “wet” the surface so it can self level, so don’t spray from too far away. Clean up is done using my normal airbrush cleaner, Mister Levelling Thinner. I always strip and clean my airbrush after every session, so have no more fear of it drying in the brush than any other paint or varnish.
It is basically an acrylic varnish formulated to have self levelling properties and good wear characteristics.
I’ve never had success dipping canopies though, I polish those with Tamiya polishing compound these days.
I find it a little difficult when brush varnishing because the brush can easily cause bubbles in the finish. I usually give it a few seconds to start drying then blow gently over the varnish to displace the bubbles.

[Guest]

Having just read the replies Andrew its put me off from using it completely, think I will stick with a varnish.
Glad to read that I'm not the only one to strip down and clean every time as Tim says above.

"I always strip and clean my airbrush after every session, so have no more fear of it drying in the brush than any other paint or varnish. "

The times I've had crud stick inside the bowl , needle or tip when I just rinse through !

[stillp]

I'm the same as Tim, except I clean with water first then IPA. I usually use a 0.2mm needle and about 15 psi.
Pete

[adt70hk]

Gents

As expected some useful hints and tips. As Tim has suggested previously, part of the reason for using it, is that I want a tougher undercoat for some of the wargaming pieces I use. And also for giving it a try on clear canopies.

But the main reason was for the pre-decal coat. I have some gloss 'modelling' varnish but that works out at c. 14p/ml, whereas this is costs 1.75p/ml.

Thanks again.

ATB

Andrew

[stona]

I would ask why you want to spray it at all?

Here's my usual combination, though I would dig out a smaller flat brush for a small model like the Blenheim in the background.



It's a self-levelling floor polish. You just need to be careful not to apply too much but that would apply when airbrushing too.

I have never airbrushed the stuff, it is just an unnecessary step and another airbrush clean I can do with out :smiling3:

It works really well on canopies. I dip the canopy, shake off the excess and then place the part on a piece of paper towel (kitchen roll) which will wick away any excess. The paper towel lines a lidded box, closing the lid will prevent any unwanted dust, hairs or other foreign objects sticking to the clear parts while they dry.

[adt70hk]

I would ask why you want to spray it at all?

Here's my usual combination, though I would dig out a smaller flat brush for a small model like the Blenheim in the background.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1137120[/ATTACH]

It's a self-levelling floor polish. You just need to be careful not to apply too much but that would apply when airbrushing too.

I have never airbrushed the stuff, it is just an unnecessary step and another airbrush clean I can do with out :smiling3:

It works really well on canopies. I dip the canopy, shake off the excess and then place the part on a piece of paper towel (kitchen roll) which will wick away any excess. The paper towel lines a lidded box, closing the lid will prevent any unwanted dust, hairs or other foreign objects sticking to the clear parts while they dry.

Thanks Steve. I'd seen plenty of references to it being done by AB, hence the enquiry. I might give the hairy stick method a try on the Monogram 110 I have on the go. Old and cheap kit so no hassles of it goes wrong.

[stona]

Just brush it on generously but not TOO generously, you don't want it pooling! One coat is usually enough to give a good surface for decals, but you might need more for a really glossy finish.

[Tim Marlow]

How do you stop the bubbles Steve? Mine almost always foams up when brushed out, no matter which brush I use.

[stona]

I always get a few too, but they all level out as the varnish dries. I can't remember ever seeing any evidence of them on a model once it has dried.

I just use a flat brush in an appropriate size. My mother was an amateur artist and when she passed away many years ago I accumulated a LOT of expensive brushes, many never used, some never unpacked. I'm doing my best to use them.