Halfords Primer
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Keeping on this thread as its still about Halfords primer.
Decided to AB some bits with the primer that I'd decanted from the rattle can. Maybe not quite like water, but very close, more watery than milk.
It sprayed lovely. Just wondering if maybe I'm not thinning paint enough.
I know give it a try, but not been modelling again long enough to have built up spare plastic to try it on.Comment
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Disposable cutlery makes a good substitute for practice in the absence of kit plastic Andy.Keeping on this thread as its still about Halfords primer.
Decided to AB some bits with the primer that I'd decanted from the rattle can. Maybe not quite like water, but very close, more watery than milk.
It sprayed lovely. Just wondering if maybe I'm not thinning paint enough.
I know give it a try, but not been modelling again long enough to have built up spare plastic to try it on.Comment
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I like to thin rattle can paints a bit (albeit Tamiya TS paints). However this is more to add some retarder to allow the paint to settle before dying, rather than a necessity to thin the paint. I usually thin around 20%.Si vis pacem, para bellum.Comment
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lol, tell me about it, had a right job cleaning the AB when I'd finished. Though well pleased with the finish I got. The Ammo One Shot has arrived so going to give that a try. Cotton buds soaked in thinners at the ready...Comment
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Slightly off topic but many years ago someone on the old MM forum had a theory about primers. He said that acrylic primers relied on a glue like adhesion to stick to the plastic etc whereas lacquer primers actually ate into the plastic surface and bonded that way. I don't know how true that is but it sort of makes sense.
Anyone shed light on the veracity of the theory?Comment
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I use some IPA (IsoPropylAlchohol) to take off the acrylic, just put some on some kitchen towel and rub off. Then wash your hands after.Just done the obvious, look on Halfords site, duh. It's acrylic base. So just need to perfect the decanting and jobs a good en. It does seem everyone has their go to primer. Had a look in the shop, and John say that the Stynylrez is discontinued.
Read a review on the Styn and they reckoned that the Mig One Shot was the same stuff...Comment
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Jim, very true, lacquer (cellulose) is designed to eat into the surface. And Acrylic is designed to attache to the surface.Slightly off topic but many years ago someone on the old MM forum had a theory about primers. He said that acrylic primers relied on a glue like adhesion to stick to the plastic etc whereas lacquer primers actually ate into the plastic surface and bonded that way. I don't know how true that is but it sort of makes sense.
Anyone shed light on the veracity of the theory?Comment
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I agree with Mike. In my day job we call them mechanical or chemical Adhesion.
Mechanical adhesion, where the coating just "sticks", can be helped immensely by sanding or otherwise roughening up the substrate, often referred to as "giving it a key".
Imagine looking very close up, the peaks & troughs caused by the sanding scratches increases the surface area many fold, giving more area for the coating to "stick" to.Comment
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Got some coming this afternoon. Just done a shed load of priming so having a break.
After using the Halfords, there's certainly something 'extra' in there.Slightly off topic but many years ago someone on the old MM forum had a theory about primers. He said that acrylic primers relied on a glue like adhesion to stick to the plastic etc whereas lacquer primers actually ate into the plastic surface and bonded that way. I don't know how true that is but it sort of makes sense.
Anyone shed light on the veracity of the theory?Comment
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