Turn paint bottles into rattle bottles

[Guest]

I've just bought a set of Vallejo Model Air and being thin enough to use straight through an airbrush do they really need to be shaken that vigorously?

[Guest]

I've just bought a set of Vallejo Model Air and being thin enough to use straight through an airbrush do they really need to be shaken that vigorously?

I believe that Vallejo say that their Air range does not need thinning, it being thin enough already. However, I and many other modellers thin them a little by about 5% just to make sure that the airbrush will not block.

I shake all their Model Air paint (and other makes of paint) which does not have a stainless steel nut in them for, say, 15 seconds if it has not been used for some time, to make sure that the pigment is thoroughly dispersed. Some paint seems to clump more than others, probably due to the type of pigment and its natural tendency to clump. I know that their gloss varnish definitely clumps in the bottle and produces a thick mass at the bottom. I think it is better to be safe.

Tamiya say that their Clear Flat varnish must not be shaken, just stirred, presumably because it would cause minute bubbles.

[Guest]

Actually Steve Vallejo say that although they are prepared specially for air brushing thinning is down to the user. Different needle/nozzle sizes temperature compressor pressure all dictate how much you thin. On average I thin 20 / 25%.

Not had any problems with the Vallejo gloss varnish. After a break in moving etc about 4 months just had a look at the gloss varnish & it is the same at the bottom as the top no need for shaking. But they had a batch which was poor quality which clumped & clogged my airbrush. They replaced it plus a bonus.

I also use Vallejo premium Acrylic Polyurethene Gloss Varnish which does not need any shaking at all & air brushes perfectly.

Vallejo web site has a veiritable mine of information.

The first belwo questions with answers. They give info on thinning & stirring of paint although I shake them like mad & do not get any problems at all.

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/65a2f7365274da82fe3b0d786827957b.cms/model-faqs-cc001-rev03.pdf

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/1bbb33f90bc1bbb81bebfcd775bf22f1.cms/cc071-rev11.pdf

Laurie

[Guest]

I would be concerned about placing a nut in the paint in case there's a reaction, rust was mentioned. I've considered trying to make some kind of cage or holder with a piece to fit in a hand drill.

Yeah I seen that I think stainless would be ok im not sure about galvanised or anything else.

If you live near a body shop the go through a lot of rattle cans, I would imagine the ball would be perfect. I have 2 friends that paint cars, I might try that.

[Guest]

As any nut will be at the bottom of the container & covered with paint rust will not be a problem.

Matter of interest sometimes stainless steel can look aa though it is rusting. Used to be into boats, real not model, & the pulpit some times looked as though it was rusting away. In the production manufacturers use ferrous metal wheels & fine wire brushes to finish the metal. Minute pieces of the ferrous metal embed themselves in the surface of the stainless steel & then go to rust.

Laurie

[Guest]

Actually Steve Vallejo say that although they are prepared specially for air brushing thinning is down to the user. Different needle/nozzle sizes temperature compressor pressure all dictate how much you thin. On average I thin 20 / 25%. Not had any problems with the Vallejo gloss varnish. After a break in moving etc about 4 months just had a look at the gloss varnish & it is the same at the bottom as the top no need for shaking. But they had a batch which was poor quality which clumped & clogged my airbrush. They replaced it plus a bonus.

I also use Vallejo premium Acrylic Polyurethene Gloss Varnish which does not need any shaking at all & air brushes perfectly.

Vallejo web site has a veiritable mine of information.

The first belwo questions with answers. They give info on thinning & stirring of paint although I shake them like mad & do not get any problems at all.

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/65a2f7365274da82fe3b0d786827957b.cms/model-faqs-cc001-rev03.pdf

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/1bbb33f90bc1bbb81bebfcd775bf22f1.cms/cc071-rev11.pdf

Laurie

Thanks for the Vallejo refs, esp. the first. Very informative.

In your post you use the word "premium". Is the varnish you use 70.510?

[Guest]

Yeah I seen that I think stainless would be ok im not sure about galvanised or anything else. If you live near a body shop the go through a lot of rattle cans, I would imagine the ball would be perfect. I have 2 friends that paint cars, I might try that.

When Phil Flory recommended putting a nut in paint bottles, he said that a ball bearing could block the narrow nozzle of Vallejo paint bottles.

[Guest]

When Phil Flory recommended putting a nut in paint bottles, he said that a ball bearing could block the narrow nozzle of Vallejo paint bottles.

Sure it would Steve It would plant itself in the tapering top of the container & stop the flow of paint.

STeve I use the following.

Acrylic Gloss 26.517

But now mainly Premium 62.064. 60ml not sure if you can get bigger. Probably wise to stick to that size. Not sure of the shelf life.

Laurie

[Guest]

I discovered 26.517 just an hour ago. It is much cheaper per squirt than the little bottles, and John offers it.