Red Arrows: Which Red?

[Guest]

Oh Andy, before I forget, remember you'll need some solvent for the xtracrylix - Vallejo airbrush cleaner has been suggested elsewhere. Having used airbrush cleaner with other paints I'm trusting in this advise.Cheers, P

Cheers for that Paul, I've got some Vallejo airbrush cleaner so I'll experiment with that.

[Guest]

AS far as primer goes if you want one for the airbrush I can recommend the Vallejo range. Dry flat and smooth and if left to cure fully is as hard as nails.I'll just add that for a good red finish that pops, try a yellow undercoat.

Ian M

Thanks Ian, I've now got some Vallejo "Surface Primer" in White (73.600), German Dark Yellow (73.604) and Light Ghost Grey (73.615).

The German Dark Yellow looks a bit dark and murky so I assume that after the White primer I would be able to undercoat with something like 71.002 Medium Yellow, would that be best?

[Guest]

One rule us Gw guys stick to is this, Black primer if you want the models to look dirty and grubby, Grey primer for nuetral and white primer if you want pop and vivid colours. there are exeptions to this rule like pink under red will make a red pop, yellow under red is the same, Your playing with the transparancy of the final top coat. you can get some plastic picnic spoons normally dozen for a £1 or £2, try on these all the diffrent combinations you can think off and make a note as to what you like. once you have figured it out then go to the model.

[Guest]

Thanks Matt, I haven't even had a first try at airbrushing yet, lol.

I've got some old 4 pint plastic milk bottles to practice on as well as some inkjet paper. I'm just making sure I'll have everything I need before I start.

I'm also trying to eliminate as many variables as possible so I'll have a rough idea of what to expect, and can hopefully gain some skills as I progress.

[Guest]

Thanks Matt, I haven't even had a first try at airbrushing yet, lol.I've got some old 4 pint plastic milk bottles to practice on as well as some inkjet paper. I'm just making sure I'll have everything I need before I start.

I'm also trying to eliminate as many variables as possible so I'll have a rough idea of what to expect, and can hopefully gain some skills as I progress.

what have you got airbrush and compressor wise. i have only played a little with mine, but what i have already figured out is air pressure can be you enemy or your friend. Acrylics seem to suffer really bad with what is known as dry tiping, this is where a little paint drys out on the tip of the air brush stopping good paint flow. with the primer i tried spraying them at around 15 psi, i dont get harsh dry tiping but i also dont get good attomisation. It has been suggested to me to up the air pressure for priming ( increasing dry tipping) so i get good carry, then droping the pressure back down to 15psi for spraying colour ( reducing dry tiping). Always start a session by just spraying water on to paper or card, saves wasting paint but also shows how well the brush is working. If it sprays water properly but not paint then you know there is a paint issue, not enough pressure, paint to thick, If the brush is not spraying water fine then there is an issue with the brush, look at set up so on and so forth. hope this helps.

will see if i can find my first attempts pic that i took

Matt

[Guest]

Promise you wont laugh, But here is a pic of my first go with an airbrush



Matt

[mossiepilot]

Hi Andy, from one noobie air brusher to another, the best advice I ever got was, just do it. Once I got over my nerves about using the air brush on a carefully built model,I was able to move on. I still make lots of mistakes, but I try to learn from them, sometimes I don't and make the same mistake again, just done it today trying to air brush varnish onto NMF F-86 and buggering it up, again, but I'll get there. Go on mate, have a go.

BTW I saw at the top of your thread you were looking for paint conversions, have you seen this -

http://www.paint4models.com/

I use it quite regularly as I only use vallejo paints and need to convert kit paint suggestions to vallejo colours.

Have fun.

Tony.

[Guest]

what have you got airbrush and compressor wise.

I've got an Iwata Revolution CR that I got from John's SMS Ebay shop. with an Airbrush Compressor AS186 with a 3L tank.

I done lots of scouring the 'net for reviews and advice before I made my purchase, and hopefully it'll serve me well.

[Guest]

I've got an Iwata Revolution CR that I got from John's SMS Ebay shop. with an Airbrush Compressor AS186 with a 3L tank.I done lots of scouring the 'net for reviews and advice before I made my purchase, and hopefully it'll serve me well.

Cool so you have the .5 tip, you wont need to thin any of the primers or the model air range, I have the Revolution Br it has the .35 tip and i think the paints need a little thinning for my airbrush. Next on my hit list is a Cr for these larger models, the paint cup on the Br empties in tenths of seconds on full chat as they say

matt

[Ian M]

Oh Andy, before I forget, remember you'll need some solvent for the xtracrylix - Vallejo airbrush cleaner has been suggested elsewhere. Having used airbrush cleaner with other paints I'm trusting in this advise.Cheers, P

Buy some Vallejo thinners for airbrush. Thinners are thinners and dilute the paint. Airbrush cleaners, break the paint down. I have read that people have used cleaner as a thinner but I would advise against it.

I'm no chemist, but I do know that the thinners contain the same acrylic polymers as the paint but are just in a thinner medium. So although you are diluting the paint to make it thinner, you are adding more of the same binders.

You can use distilled water, but that also makes the weaker and if over thinned you can actually rub it off when you handle the model.

Airbrush cleaner is designed to break down the paint. Destroying the paints ability to bind.....

I'll pull up a chair now and sit back and await the rebuttals

Ian M

[Guest]

Buy some Vallejo thinners for airbrush. Thinners are thinners and dilute the paint. Airbrush cleaners, break the paint down. I have read that people have used cleaner as a thinner but I would advise against it.I'm no chemist, but I do know that the thinners contain the same acrylic polymers as the paint but are just in a thinner medium. So although you are diluting the paint to make it thinner, you are adding more of the same binders.

You can use distilled water, but that also makes the weaker and if over thinned you can actually rub it off when you handle the model.

Airbrush cleaner is designed to break down the paint. Destroying the paints ability to bind.....

I'll pull up a chair now and sit back and await the rebuttals

Ian M

Same way i think about it, So if its wrong then we are both wrong, and there are 2 types of thinners for vallejo, the one for airbrush ( clear used for air application) and Thinner Medium ( cloudy, used for brush applications)

[Ian M]

As a foot note: If you use the airbrush thinner to thin paint for brush painting it will 90% of the time make the paint drag. The 'Ordinary' thinner can be used in an airbrush, just add a drop or two of distilled water.

If you are an airbrush user, I can recommend that you buy a big bottle of airbrush thinner and a little one of the other thinner. I have sent a pretty good spay job tits upwards using airbrush thinners to thin with a brush for spotting and touch up. It just dragged up the sprayed paint even though it was three days dry.

Ian M

[tr1ckey66]

No rebuttal, use what you like

[Guest]

Lol...

Luckily I have both... Decisions, decisions...

[Guest]

I would keep with the thinner for thinning and the cleaner for cleaning

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