No More Ply Boards
- Thread starter AlanG
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G
Used what for a diorama base? Plywood boards? Yes, I have 
If you want as cheap as possible, chipboard is probably your best option, plus some wood edge moulding that you can cut to size with a saw and mitre box.
If you want as cheap as possible, chipboard is probably your best option, plus some wood edge moulding that you can cut to size with a saw and mitre box.
It's a waterproof backing for wall tiles, so should be OK for dioramas.
Pete
Pete
MDF is like a sponge so would need to be sized first.
Yes. Sorry, sized is an old decorating term I got from my dad who was a painter and decorator. It just means sealed. For example, you would size fresh plaster with thinned PVA or wallpaper paste before painting.
If you cut or sand MDF where a mask the dust can be harmful I believe
Diluted would be fine, it should soak in to the first couple of mm of the wood.
Any yes, wear a mask if you are cutting it. MDF dust is nasty.
Any yes, wear a mask if you are cutting it. MDF dust is nasty.
I use what ever I find,or is cheat to get,ply,MDF,or other types as well,mostly try for about 12mm thickness,
with MDF,I seal with pva,and news paper,or you can coat with a cheap paint first,
as Paul said,I do think it has arsenic in it,as a lot of woods do,
also as said by Paul also,
real a most believe me,:smiling:
with MDF,I seal with pva,and news paper,or you can coat with a cheap paint first,
as Paul said,I do think it has arsenic in it,as a lot of woods do,
also as said by Paul also,
real a most believe me,:smiling:
Truth be told you should wear a mask cutting any wood. Fine particulates are not fun in the lungs. Ask me how i know. Working on the farm we have to be really careful about farmers lung (dust from straw and feed)
G
Morning , as I worked with mdf for at least 20 years or more I know a little about it .:smiling3::nerd:
Made from sawdust either softwood and hardwoods and bonded under high pressure The glue used in MDF is usually urea formaldehyde (UF). UF is a solid chemical made from a mixture of urea and formaldehyde. Not good to breath !!!!!!
The most important thing as has been said is using a mask, in the workshop when cutting sheet after sheet I used to wear a full face mask with filters . Mdf comes in many types these days, there is a funiture grade that is formaldehyde free Most of your kitchen doors will be made from mdf and then covered with a viny material or painted , if not made from solid timber .
The cut edge is the point of entry for moisture, once wet it peals apart just like sheets of paper. You can buy proprietary edge sealers, but numerous coats of varnish will seal, but using an acrylic one will cause the fibers to expand until cut back and another coat applied . You can buy a moisture free mdf, it has a green tint in it and is used in bathrooms as a core for furniture units . I found the best sealer for the edge was a coat of thinned oil based primer. Once this is dry a timber capping would be glued and pinned on.
If you prime one face only there is a chance of the board warping if a water based primer / varnish .is used and the board in 12 mm or less , depending of the surface size , for bases for our use a quick edge seal and a timber capping will do. Just remember, cut wearing a mask, seal with a proper mdf sealer like
View attachment 329873
There are other makes available .!
And you will be ok .
John .
Made from sawdust either softwood and hardwoods and bonded under high pressure The glue used in MDF is usually urea formaldehyde (UF). UF is a solid chemical made from a mixture of urea and formaldehyde. Not good to breath !!!!!!
The most important thing as has been said is using a mask, in the workshop when cutting sheet after sheet I used to wear a full face mask with filters . Mdf comes in many types these days, there is a funiture grade that is formaldehyde free Most of your kitchen doors will be made from mdf and then covered with a viny material or painted , if not made from solid timber .
The cut edge is the point of entry for moisture, once wet it peals apart just like sheets of paper. You can buy proprietary edge sealers, but numerous coats of varnish will seal, but using an acrylic one will cause the fibers to expand until cut back and another coat applied . You can buy a moisture free mdf, it has a green tint in it and is used in bathrooms as a core for furniture units . I found the best sealer for the edge was a coat of thinned oil based primer. Once this is dry a timber capping would be glued and pinned on.
If you prime one face only there is a chance of the board warping if a water based primer / varnish .is used and the board in 12 mm or less , depending of the surface size , for bases for our use a quick edge seal and a timber capping will do. Just remember, cut wearing a mask, seal with a proper mdf sealer like
View attachment 329873
There are other makes available .!
And you will be ok .
John .
Attachments
John , as a joiner , would OSB board/sterling board be a better solution , I believe a lot of building sites use as external cladding ( and boundary fence ) before buildings are watertight.
G
Ah, it’s a brand name … apparently of something called “fibre cement board”, AKA an asbestos replacement
It doesn’t sound like the best material to use for a diorama base to me, but then, I’ve never handled it so I have no idea how strong it is.
G
Hi Gary .
Osb,. Its not a bad idea , would be ok from the water resistant point of view, and the side with dimples on would make a great key . It's rather awkward to get a good fixing into edge wise , but gluing would be ok for edging with out the need for any mechanical help . I certainly wouldn't use anything thinner than 18 mm , though a smaller size is not going to take a lot of weight so might be ok when used as a base.
Luckily for me I have access still to my old workshop and the store of ply of cuts etc .
John .
G
The shower walling that has been mentioned is a cement based product used with none corrosive screws to allow tiling on a plastered wall . It's heavy and a sod awarkward to to cut ,again a mask is required. If you want to blunt your hand saw probably the best thing to use :smiling::smiling::smiling: sizes and thickness about a mtr square board in two sizes of thickness. Chances of fitting a nice edge about nil ! Unless glued with a tube adhesive like no more nails , the original one .
John .
John .
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