Not cheating, a very worthwhile wrinkle I’d say. I do something similar, sticking labels to the top of my Tamiya paints so I can tell what they are without having to take them out of their box.
Sounds like common sense to me!!!! :thumb2:
I do that with tape & a sharpie, but similar principle.
G
I do something similar, but approaching it from the other side, with any paint that doesn’t have a cap or lid in the (approximate) colour of what’s inside: paint it with the contents.
That works up to a point, but the label also states the colour number and if it’s already diluted for spraying Jakko.
G
Seat please Steve.
Front row if possible , with coffee and of course biscuits. :smiling3:
Front row if possible , with coffee and of course biscuits. :smiling3:
G
Certainly not, sorry I didn't see you there Doug . Why are you lying on the floor ?
Just remembered (unless I'm thinking of another of this guy's builds). Apparently the early versions of this kit had rubber band tracks which needed to be welded together by melting the tracks. I wouldn't bother. As the top run is hidden behind the hull sides, just use a couple of staples.
G
Sensible, saves all that time searching through the sprues, says he who never labels his....
G
I ordered some Tamiya paint a few days ago, it just arrived with a bottle of X-20A Thinner.
Now before I do this, is it correct what I've been told, that if you open them and fill them almost to the top with thinners, then the paint is perfectly airbrush ready?
Now before I do this, is it correct what I've been told, that if you open them and fill them almost to the top with thinners, then the paint is perfectly airbrush ready?
You may find some colours will require a bit more or less thinners than others so i would just mix as i need.
It's a rumour that goes around so much that many believe it to be true.
As Mark says, it might be fine for some colours but not necessarily all.
As Mark says, it might be fine for some colours but not necessarily all.
It’s a good starting point, but overfilling like that makes mixing a bit difficult. I dilute to the shoulder of the bottle, mix thoroughly, then adjust the mix in the airbrush cup to make it properly spray friendly. As the guys say above, each colour will need its own adjustment to spray as you want it to.
I find that the vallejo model air are very good in the AB straight from the bottle, tried adding thinners to vallejo model color and a bit hit and miss (thats down to me). Its the old adage, take as much advise as you can get, then use the bits that suit you. The guys and gals on here are very knowledgeable.
G
Working on the build and I need a little advice.
Looking at this section, there are two small box-like objects (B8) that glue onto the rear of the tank.
These sit on two pins, however along with the two pins they sit on, there are also six other smaller pins surrounding it
which means the boxes will not sit flush.
My question is this, should I trim off the smaller pins so these fit flush? or am I supposed to leave a horrible gap?
Looking at this section, there are two small box-like objects (B8) that glue onto the rear of the tank.
These sit on two pins, however along with the two pins they sit on, there are also six other smaller pins surrounding it
which means the boxes will not sit flush.
My question is this, should I trim off the smaller pins so these fit flush? or am I supposed to leave a horrible gap?
If memory serves the pins are there to bring small boxes out in order to sit flush with the rear plate.
How does it look with b9 fitted
G
Those boxes B8 are smoke emitters (inside each are two smoke candles that are set off electrically from inside the tank), and they look like they should sit on top of the little pins, which are most likely the lugs they bolt onto on the real tank.
(source)
So no, don’t trim them off, and yes, leave a small gap between B8 and the hull plate
(source)
So no, don’t trim them off, and yes, leave a small gap between B8 and the hull plate
G
Thanks, that's sorted now.
The next phase is the wheels/tracks. Now I'm not sure about this. Do I prime all the parts separately and then build, or build it and then prime it.
or does it not matter about the order you do it?
also, any tips for getting rid of moulding (molding?) lines in curved and weird shaped parts? this is proving to be very tricky indeed!
The next phase is the wheels/tracks. Now I'm not sure about this. Do I prime all the parts separately and then build, or build it and then prime it.
or does it not matter about the order you do it?
also, any tips for getting rid of moulding (molding?) lines in curved and weird shaped parts? this is proving to be very tricky indeed!
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