discussion 1/32 Trumpeter JU-87D Stuka

[BarryW]

I am planning to do my first winter camo scheme on this one.

Here is the box:


Unfortunately most of the aftermarket is designed for the Hasegawa ‘D’ kit. Naturally I won’t touch the Trumpeter decals so I will use these masks for the markings.

The set contains canopy masks and, unless I can find a set for the Trumpy, I will have to make do with them. While in theory they should fit we all know they won’t!

Not all the codes for the winter scheme on the box are in the mask set and I am yet to decide how to approach that. I have a few options.

Here is the bench all cleaned up ready.


I will post some sprue shots when I get the chance. I will also decide on what I am doing about seatbelts, there is a ‘steel’ Eduard set for the Hassy that I might get.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Barry
Another one to look forward to. For such an iconic aircraft I don't remember seeing many models of it.
Jim

 

[BarryW]

First some sprue close ups.

As you can see it has excellent surface detail with no sign of Trumpy’s mad riveter.
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I have cut plastic to start on a very nice engine. I will not be exposing it as usual but it is nice to build up.
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[BarryW]

The engine is nicely detailed and builds up really nicely. It is not engineered to be displayed though as it fits neatly and perfectly inside the front fuselage section.

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The two sides fit around the engine very well indeed.

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Some other subs.

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And onto the interior of the pit.

Seat subs, cement drying.

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Side walls with various boxes etc attached.

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So far, very good indeed.

 

[Guest]

Why on earth is that engine there if you can’t open any panels on the nose?

 

[BarryW]

Why on earth is that engine there if you can’t open any panels on the nose?

It does give an option for you to do some surgery I suppose!

 

[Guest]

True, that’s always an option, but it’s odd they would include it if it’s not going to be visible at all — especially given your comments about other kits that manufacturers often only give open hatches for things like this.

 

[BarryW]

True, that’s always an option, but it’s odd they would include it if it’s not going to be visible at all — especially given your comments about other kits that manufacturers often only give open hatches for things like this.

There is a trend with Far East companies to include full internal details. I have no problem with that personally as long as they make sure you get a good fit with closed panels. The extreme example of this being Zoukie Mura’s trade mark engine pistons molded in, in the correct relative positions. These are never displayed of course.

 

[BarryW]

Cockpit subs are ready to paint. I will black base then spray RLM02.

Unusually I decided to cement the tail wheel sub before painting. I will mask the tyre. The join will need filling and sanding.

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[BarryW]

First I black primed the interior and then sprayed RLM02. Trumpy, as usual, do t provide much by way of detail painting instructions so a bit of Googling and creativity for that. Careful not to overdo this.

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I will spray those with a semi-matt before weathering.

I have started masking the prop having painted it with black primer.

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And, then these arrived...
Seatbelts and some masks, while not being for the ‘D’ I think they might fit better than the Hasegawa ones.

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[BarryW]

I got on with weathering the pit.
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And the prop finished. I think I will do a little more weathering on the ‘boss’ though.
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Here are the cockpit components pulled together. A faultless fit with enough tolerances to take the paint thickness.
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[BarryW]

By the way. I received the seatbelts after painting and assembling the seat. The instructions for them includes the drilling of holes in the armour plate to insert the top of the shoulder belts into. This was not practical at this stage so I cut the belts at the top to shorted them and glued them into place where the ends would enter the hole. Not ideal but it worked.

 

[Steven000]

Looks all very nice Barry :thumb2:

 

[BarryW]

Fit is excellent but the seams need treating.

First step, an application of Mr Surfacer 500 with a micro brush. I may need to do a second application.
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I have prepared the i.p. for priming. I have not found an a.m. panel and looking at the supplied decal it is very poor, even if I could rely on it not to splinter into a hundred pieces. I will have to revert to just paint.

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[Jim R]

Hi Barry
Looking very nice so far. Shame that the Trumpeter decals are so poor and that no am decals are available. I am sure your painting skills will be more than ok.
Jim

 

[Guest]

You could punch the dials out of the Trumpeter decal sheet and either apply them as decals, or glue them to the instrument panel including their backing paper?

 

[gothicgeek]

These might help?

https://www.modeldesignconstruction.co.uk/decals/84-luftwaffe-instruments-decals.html

 

[BarryW]

These might help?

https://www.modeldesignconstruction.co.uk/decals/84-luftwaffe-instruments-decals.html

Thanks for this. It prompted me to check my spares box and I found decals I can cut up and use. The Trumpy ones are unusable just from the ‘print’.

I have sanded the seams. They now just need a little Mr Dissolved Putty in places when some vestige of a seam is left. This is my secret weapon against ghost seams! I may need an ‘outing’ in spots again after priming.
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[Defiant911]

Thanks for this. It prompted me to check my spares box and I found decals I can cut up and use. The Trumpy ones are unusable just from the ‘print’.

I have sanded the seams. They now just need a little Mr Dissolved Putty in places when some vestige of a seam is left. This is my secret weapon against ghost seams! I may need an ‘outing’ in spots again after priming.

I’ve got a 1:48 scale in my stash to build so your build notes will come in very handy..

 

[BarryW]

The i.p. has turned out OK, not perfect but acceptable.

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I had a problem with the sight, the transparent bit broke and it was impossible to do an invisible join. Hopefully it won’t show up with the windscreen in place.