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1/72 HMS Iron Duke - Type 23 Frigate

Well Garry, that is a model to be proud of. It looks superb and you've making great progress.
 
Thank you Chris, no the "glass" in the bridge has yet to be fitted, along with a hang of a lot of other stuff.
I don't believe that this can even remotely compare to your builds, but I do bear in mind that you have been doing this for a very long time, but I'm doing the best that I can.
G
WELL Garry let me tell you you are doin great very well done my freind an for bridge glass i use very light green acetate as on the real ship there are sort of greeninsh tinge to the windows on the bridge to cut down the sun glare shinening of the sea so it dont dazzale the crew members
ATB
CHRISB
 
Thread owner
Well Garry, that is a model to be proud of. It looks superb and you've making great progress.
Thank you so much Jim
WELL Garry let me tell you you are doin great very well done my freind an for bridge glass i use very light green acetate as on the real ship there are sort of greeninsh tinge to the windows on the bridge to cut down the sun glare shinening of the sea so it dont dazzale the crew members
ATB
CHRISB
Yes that is the idea Chris
G
 
Thread owner
As I am still waiting for bits to arrive, I have busied myself with some decoration ;)
IMG_1087.jpeg

IMG_1088.jpeg
 
HI Garry she's lookin good in that grey an how did you paint it hairy stick ' A/B
OR rattlecan ? an have you fitted in your R/X yet an any servo ? as be nice to see inside with pics
chrisb
 
Thread owner
HI Garry she's lookin good in that grey an how did you paint it hairy stick ' A/B
OR rattlecan ? an have you fitted in your R/X yet an any servo ? as be nice to see inside with pics
chrisb
All painting is with an airbrush Chris, with the odd awkward bit done using a paintbrush.
I'm still waiting on bits to connect the servos etc, as you can imagine the festive season has played havoc with deliveries.
 
Thread owner
I've been plodding on over the festive season and here are the fruits of my labour.
Firstly the motors and ESC's

IMG_1090.jpeg

Then the rudders and servo
IMG_1089.jpeg

The main battery compartment, and also the stabilisers and servo.
IMG_1091.jpeg

Then the power distribution area.
IMG_1092.jpeg
 
LIKE Rick said VERY TIDY WORK like very much :thumb2: :thumb2: :thumb2: :thumb2: :thumb2: Garry
chrisb
 
Thread owner
Thank you Rick and Chris, much appreciated.
 
HI Garry ive been studyin your stabilizer layout an i cannot see how the stabs will work from that servo as the servo will pull an push left an right from what i see but your stabs arms need to be pulled an pushed up an down SORRY Garry this is not critisuim of your build its just an observation
chrisb ps GARRY HERE IS A SHOT OF MY TIGERS STABILIZERS AN THE PUSH RODS THAT WORK THEM FROM THE RUDDER IMG_6882.JPG
 
Thread owner
Thesis looking Great Gary, very nice workmanship
Thank you so much Joe
More great work Garry, this really is looking superb
Very kind of you to say Mick.

HI Garry ive been studyin your stabilizer layout an i cannot see how the stabs will work from that servo as the servo will pull an push left an right from what i see but your stabs arms need to be pulled an pushed up an down SORRY Garry this is not critisuim of your build its just an observation
chrisb ps GARRY HERE IS A SHOT OF MY TIGERS STABILIZERS AN THE PUSH RODS THAT WORK THEM FROM THE RUDDER View attachment 470895
Thanks for your observation Chris, and no exception taken. I had noted your method of connecting the rudders and stabilisers which I had seen on your build log, but when I saw that my new TX could do mixes I went a different route.
I have set up a mix for the rudder/servo operation, in that the rudders connect to a servo which is the master and the stabilisers connect to another servo which is the slave, both connected to seperate channels on the RX, and mixed, to allow only 50% of the rudder movement to be used for the stabilisers. Dry testing has shown it to be roughly proportional, however I will make any adjustment that needs to be made once she is launched and I can see how she responds to rudder input.
The angle of the rods from the servo to the stabiliser arms is sufficient to turn the stabilisers as the round servo "arm" is low enough to operate them correctly.
I hope all that makes sense.
Garry
 
All looking very neat and sorted Garry. I wouldn't know where to start and when you and Chris get chatting it's like a foreign language :rolling: :smiling:
 
OK Garry but i to me the servo looks as if its just tryin to pull the stabs leavers accross the hull instead of up an down an will you get enough movement on the stabs ? as mine need to travel at least an inch either way but if yours do then well done my freind
ATB
Chrisb
 
Thread owner
I decided to spray the underside of the hull, and am pretty disappointed, I used Vallejo Air Hull Red, and to my eyes it looks brown, after two light coats.
I'll have to look for an alternative, any suggestions?
IMG_1100.jpeg
 
If it were my ship build Garry, I think I would opt for an Enamel based paint and lay down several coats to give it a good seal against moisture penetration. Rustoleum (other brands are available) comes to mind.......relatively inexpensive and available in "rattle" cans in quantities large enough to knock this bad boy out. They also have a pretty extensive range of colors. Hope this helps.:smiling3:
 
Thread owner
If it were my ship build Garry, I think I would opt for an Enamel based paint and lay down several coats to give it a good seal against moisture penetration. Rustoleum (other brands are available) comes to mind.......relatively inexpensive and available in "rattle" cans in quantities large enough to knock this bad boy out. They also have a pretty extensive range of colors. Hope this helps.:smiling3:
Many thanks for the suggestion Rick, I am not concerned with moisture penetration as I sealed the hull, both inside and out, with epoxy resin.
I will have a look at enamel based paints and see what colours they have locally in rattle cans.
Thanks again
Garry
 
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