discussion airbrushes

[Guest]

Youch I bet the seller is happy !

 

[Guest]

yes it wasn't me. for that much I will buy new.

and at least we know they hold there value...

steve

 

[Guest]

Im just waiting for my compressor to turn up. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200600974912?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649for that price I couldn't go wrong.

its got two brushes with it that I don't expect a lot from but will be good to practice with and learn how to clean.and my daughter can have a play with them too.

I do want the harder and steenbeck infinity 2 in 1 but I decided to buy the neo for iwata at 50 quid to see how I get on before I dig deep.

come on compressor I cant wait.

oh and to practice on I brought a 48 scale spitfire. small aint it lol makes me realise how big of a plane my 48 scale skye raider is in the flesh.

 

[Guest]

If your Spit. is A05115A, I completed this a months go, and bought it to practice on. The wing roots needed filling, otherwise OK. As a beginner, I found that airbrushed paint, and especially gloss varnish, tends to pool at the wing roots of planes, probably because of the confined space caused by the fuselage/wing junction. So go more lightly when you reach that area.

On your compressor (a good bundle), remember to open the bottom valve (I do it every time after a session) to let out any moisture that has gathered.

The illustration seems not to include a pull off/push on quick-release connector on the hose, between the AB and the hose. This handy item allows you to disconnect and attend to the AB without releasing the pressure in the tank. I got mine from "everythingairbrush":

Airbrush Quick Release Mini Coupling Body & Tail Kit Ref: AB-117 at:

http://www.everythingairbrush.com/acatalog/Quick_Release_.html#aHS_2d104473

but check that it will fit your system.

 

[Guest]

Also Steve (exo). when you have fitted up your system get a small amount of water with a dollop of washing up in it. Get the compressor & system up to say 40psi. Then with a paint brush go around "every " joint on the compressor hoses & airbrush giving a liberal wash with yee old paint brush & watch for bubbles being squeezed out of the joint. Not the static ones in the liquid a leak will come out in little beads. Found 3 on my system a few weeks back.

Used a plumbers jointing Plumba pipe threadsealer on every joint. Do not like the plastic tape stuff. I have not used the compressor for 3 weeks & the pressure has not changed, Before I get bombed from on high the pros. say you should release pressure after each session. Bet 99% do not !

Laurie

 

[stona]

Hi Laurie, I do release the pressure in my reservoir though I honestly don't know why we're supposed to do it. I either read, or was told by someone that I should do it. I just flush the brush through after turning the compressor off which loses a fair bit and then hold the trigger down until the reservoir is empty. I only do this at the end of the day, not every time I use an airbrush.

I do spray at around 30-35 psi which means the reservoir sits a bit above that.

I'm itching to get that masking off, another couple of hours should do it. It's very warm in my little work area as the sun is out and it's under glass!

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Interesting Steve. That is a high pressure to spray at. Obviously works otherwise you would not do it. I suppose it really is the amount you pull back the trigger to release the paint which is critical. Must have a practice at this pressure level.

Fortunate in my new abode. Faces East morning sun & is cool during the summer. Winter heated by all the 8 surrounding flats. More to the point a £250 a month elec bill at the old hose has gone down to £100.

Laurie

 

[stona]

Works for me Laurie!

I find the airbrush works better at this sort of pressure giving a properly atomised mixture from the business end. Controlling the amount of paint you introduce is the tricky bit but I find as long as you know your paints and the airbrush you soon get a feel for it. I spray enamels thinned about, very "about", 50/50 with white spirits, though this varies according to the paint. It's not much different to spraying water

I find this way I can have a block, splatter, etc, etc, free session which is quite relaxing. I can concentrate on what I'm painting without thinking about how and whether the airbrush is working properly. I don't give it a second thought.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Hi Laurie, I do release the pressure in my reservoir though I honestly don't know why we're supposed to do it. I either read, or was told by someone that I should do it.........Steve

I was told that it is to drain water that can accumulate which can cause rust. I have noticed some water coming out, sometimes. I think it depends on the local air conditions.

 

[stona]

I was told that it is to drain water that can accumulate which can cause rust. I have noticed some water coming out, sometimes. I think it depends on the local air conditions.

That makes sense Steve. I don't think I've ever had a compressor last long enough for anything to rust through! My last one lasted about five years which I thought was pretty good.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

yippee my compressor has turned up. And im glad I brought the iwata brush as the ones supplied were as expected poo.although they may be usefull just as compressed air cleaners for blowing dust off models etc.

All as I need now is to find an hour or two spare.

 

[Guest]

Life starts to day Steve !

Boring but Practice. Some think a two stage airbrush is more difficult.

Press down of the trigger & "keep it there" until you want to stop. No practice it is simple as that.

Pull back for the amount of paint you want released. This is the practise & difficult bit. How close & how much paint to release.

Bit frustrating to begin but soon falls into place & becomes just like driving all on automatic brain.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

thanks for all the advice peeps. I think I will stick around on here for a bit.I may learn a lot and you never know I may even be able to contribute.

 

[Guest]

Contributing already Steve. 310 have looked in & 32 written. For all a different stages there is always a bit to learn or try out a tchnique.

Laurie

 

[stona]

Stating what may be obvious but always press to start the air before pulling back to add the paint. At the other end stop the paint first though eventually you'll find that you stop both almost simultaneously.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Ive had a quick try of the new compressor and it does the job fine.

I wasn't prepared to have a go of my good brush as I didn't want to get it soiled without knowing how to clean it thoroughly.

I tried the cheapo brush supplied.to clean it I washed the cup and then spayed air brush cleaner though until clear.

As for my thoughts on the cheapo brush.

I must admit I gave it to my little girl. I said my wife could have the other one because I had my Neo.

I said come on skye (my girl) have a go at your new brush.

Now im jealous it is very good indeed. gravity fed dual action big cup and a spry limiter on the back for ease of use perfect for shading and without a OOOPs slipped with the pull back too much paint and blob.

If my brush is half as good as the cheap ones in the box I would recommend them to any beginner.

for 66 quid you are away and painting.

Ive only had one go and my only complaint is.

It did splatter occasionally on first spray.might of been me or the gun.

but I am pretty sure I can master this and theres no going back to a furry stick now..

 

[Guest]

I..............Ive only had one go and my only complaint is.

It did splatter occasionally on first spray.might of been me or the gun.

but I am pretty sure I can master this and theres no going back to a furry stick now..

Start the spray away from the model, move over the model and keep going with the spray over the whole area, and keep the spray going until you clear the model. It seems to be the starting and stopping the paint stream that causes spatter, so do that off the model. Also, clean the tip of the AB every 5 minutes or so, to clear any dried paint there.

 

[stona]

It seems to be the starting and stopping the paint stream that causes spatter, so do that off the model.

That shouldn't really happen. It might be caused by pulling the needle back before starting the air or, at the other end so to speak, stopping the air before closing the needle. There are all sorts of other reasons related to thinning and pressure which might cause this too. It can only be caused by a build up of paint at the nozzle which is then blown out when the air flow is started.

How would you go about shading a panel in the middle of a model if you have to start and stop the paint flow clear of the model? I couldn't paint like that. I'm afraid it doesn't make sense to me.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

it was my first go .

also I didn't thin the paint. do I have to? I was using valejo onto paper.

and to be fair the brush is very cheapo.

 

[Guest]

That shouldn't really happen. It might be caused by pulling the needle back before starting the air or, at the other end so to speak, stopping the air before closing the needle. There are all sorts of other reasons related to thinning and pressure which might cause this too. It can only be caused by a build up of paint at the nozzle which is then blown out when the air flow is started.How would you go about shading a panel in the middle of a model if you have to start and stop the paint flow clear of the model? I couldn't paint like that. I'm afraid it doesn't make sense to me.

Cheers

Steve

I suffered from sputtering during the early stage of my airbrushing (I started in February) and solved it by the method I mentioned (start and end the stream off the model). I also wiped the nozzle frequently. I was aware that would not work with, for example, that type of German camo which involves islands of squiggles. I will now experiment with making sure that I avoid pulling the needle back before starting the air or stopping the air before closing the needle, as you mention.