discussion Amusing Hobby 1/35 Panzerkampfwagen VII VK 7201 (K)

[spanner570]

Oh, yes, I see that now you explain it. Is there a reason for them to be separate parts? Like, is there an undercut that would be impossible to mould if they were simply part of the link?

If you take a look at the stage construction of a track section a couple of posts back, I try and explain just why they are a separate part.

 

[Guest]

I realised it later: they’re there to trap the next link so the track articulates.

 

[Guest]

Ron,
Looking good on the paint finish, no jokes about linking the build together, you are doing a great job - by the way i have a set for a Bren carrier if you are interested in straining your eyes some more.
Cheers, Mike.

 

[Guest]

570.
Your doing a splendid job, rather you than me with those tracks, they look a nightmare waiting ! .
453 .

 

[spanner570]

Cheers boys.
Michael - What a fine offer. Sorry, but one this occasion I must pass it by. I hope you will understand.....:tongue-out3:!

I had a luuuurverly time yesterday...... :dizzy::loudly-crying:
To be honest once I had sussed out what went where and figured out a quick way to assemble the bits, it was a relatively straight forward exercise. Apart from a quick swipe to remove the minimal dots where they were attached to the sprues, the links were a joy to fit together - But mind numbing at the same time!

I've read of various techniques regarding the painting of armour tracks. Many are far too fiddly, long winded and complicated for a simple soul like me who wants an easy life. No primer. I just give the tracks one brushed on coat of Vallejo Model Air Dk. Sea Grey, then a very thin wash of some sort of Dk. Brown. Finally I shine up the road / wheel contact areas with a pencil.

Here's the tracks with the grey coat of paint.

The four top and bottom long lengths.





I always glue enough links to the drive wheels first. Simply because there's only one position for them to go - On the cogs.


....and once in the roughly the correct position, the idler wheels too. Again both ends of the running gear a straight forward fit.


This kit really is a joy to work on.

Cheers.
Ron

 

[Guest]

570.
Interesting method of doing the track fitting re the gluing as you progress. One that when I use that sort of track again I will try.
Always wonder that if you don't use a primer, have you never had the paint flake off.?
Your not alone in doing this either, I don't think Peter Day uses it either. If I'm wrong on that Peter sorry.

453

 

[Guest]

Always wonder that if you don't use a primer, have you never had the paint flake off.?
Your not alone in doing this either, I don't think Peter Day uses it either. If I'm wrong on that Peter sorry.

Or me. I can’t speak for Ron, but I’ve never found paint to flake off plastic unless there’s something on the plastic that shouldn’t be there, like mould release agent (the usual culprit), and that’s actually very rare in most kits.

To give an example of durability: until a couple of years ago, I used to play Warhammer 40K regularly, usually with a mix of metal and plastic figures. The metal figures, I primed and sealed carefully with a couple of strong coats of varnish, and for transport, sandwiched between two layers of acoustic foam so they wouldn’t touch any other models. Plastic figures, OTOH, I didn’t prime and gave a lighter coat of varnish, then just chucked all of them together into a container that I packed tight with figures and styrofoam worms etc. No paint ever wore off the plastic figures, but try packing metal figures like that and you can repaint them after transporting them once.

 

[Guest]

Or me. I can’t speak for Ron, but I’ve never found paint to flake off plastic unless there’s something on the plastic that shouldn’t be there, like mould release agent (the usual culprit), and that’s actually very rare in most kits.

To give an example of durability: until a couple of years ago, I used to play Warhammer 40K regularly, usually with a mix of metal and plastic figures. The metal figures, I primed and sealed carefully with a couple of strong coats of varnish, and for transport, sandwiched between two layers of acoustic foam so they wouldn’t touch any other models. Plastic figures, OTOH, I didn’t prime and gave a lighter coat of varnish, then just chucked all of them together into a container that I packed tight with figures and styrofoam worms etc. No paint ever wore off the plastic figures, but try packing metal figures like that and you can repaint them after transporting them once.

Hi Jakko.
Thanks for that.
That is an interesting point, I suppose having done a lot of furniture and other finishing jobs where I had to use a primer or sealer to key the surface I naturally assumed that plastic would need the same treatment and bought the primers . I would like to know the difference between a primer and a top coat of for with the example Vallejo , in fact I thin I will email them just out of interest.

John.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Ron
That is a good way to deal with the tracks.
Jim

 

[scottie3158]

Ron,
Great work on the tracks, looking at their size the full runs must ways the same as a panzer 1 lol

 

[Guest]

That is an interesting point, I suppose having done a lot of furniture and other finishing jobs where I had to use a primer or sealer to key the surface I naturally assumed that plastic would need the same treatment and bought the primers .

I suppose the reason I don’t is largely because I never used to — I got into this hobby as a child, and of course you don’t prime then, you just put the paint on Since this never caused any problems, I haven’t yet seen a need to use primer on plastic except to provide an even base colour (for example when the model has very different colours of plastic) or if there are also metal or resin parts on the model, to which paint won’t adhere as well.

I would like to know the difference between a primer and a top coat of for with the example Vallejo , in fact I thin I will email them just out of interest..

My guess is that the primer is more aggressive, so that it will bite into the material better, so it won’t come off as easily.

 

[spanner570]

The tracks are finally completed. Total pieces count = 360 They went together very well with hardly any cleaning up. The main problem was keeping my sanity due to the repartition of the task.
Here are the pictures.

A close up of the track construction. The two top sections.


Tracks fitted.










I'm glad this bit is behind me. Next up I'll glue the lid on and paint in some detail. Then finally fettle where required.

BIG edit!
The model is now completed and over in Military vehicles / armoured vehicles / completed.
Thanks for all the support along the way.

Cheers.
Ron

Cheers.
Ron

 

[Gern]

You learn summat new every day on here! I didn't know until reading your last post Ron, that the technical term for the upper superstructure of a tank is 'the lid'. Amazin'!

PS Crackin' job on those tracks.

 

[spanner570]

Thanks Dave, I'm chuffed you like the tracks. I'm glad they are behind me now....

I'm also very happy to help in heduficating you with some technical 'Armour Speak'.

 

[Mini Me]

Yes I agree, The tracks do look the Bomb.:thumb2:
Rick H.

 

[Guest]

570.
I never thought you were sane

Yours.

Prof J Dimwhit .
Dir of Clinical Psychology.
Broadmoor.

 

[Guest]

Ron,
With the tracks on, that wheel layout does not seem so out of kilter, still watching with interest.
Cheers, Mike.