discussion Andy's 1/35 Tamiya Stug B

[Guest]

Here's my entry into Bob's Stug group build. No doubt you've all seen one before but here are the box & sprue shots as required:

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The lovely rubber band tracks

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And some PE

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It seems Voyager have released a newer version of this but I managed to get the old one! Not that it matters too much as upon opening the box it was clear I'm not going to manage most of this. I'll have a go at the larger pieces if I can decipher the instructions, but many parts look way beyond me.

Kit tracks may well get changed for metal but I have plenty of time to decide. 6 months is pretty much a lifetime for me so anything could happen.

 

[SimonT]

Hi Andy - metal barrel and etch supplied with the kit is good. None of that with mine

The Voyager set looks good

 

[BattleshipBob]

Enjoy Andy

built this kit and its a nice easy build, best of luck

 

[Fernando N]

Same kit here Andy, nice etch set I'm only adding Fruils for now...

 

[Steve Jones]

Plenty of time to have a bash at the PE. The worst parts will be the clamps. Can't go wrong with a Tamiya kit. Looking forward to seeing the three colour camo pattern with winter camo on top. LOL

 

[Guest]

Funnily enough Steve I've been thinking about winter camo. Another first for me but there's plenty of time to strip it and start again if it goes Pete Tong. :smiling5:

 

[Guest]

I have this Kit Andy and was wondering how good a build it would be and what extra's it may need or not need to make it pop!

Front row for me with notepad and pen if you don't mind buddy?

 

[Guest]

The more the merrier James, glad to have you.

I'm still not sure how much of the extra PE detail I'll be able to manage as there is a ton of really tiny stuff. With my fat fingered approach to CA the blobs of glue are normally many times bigger than these pieces, but I'll give it a shot!

 

[scottie3158]

Andy,
Chair pulled up. The etch is not as daunting as it first appears. The instructions sometimes leave a lot to be desired. And there is always stuff left on the fret. Fret is good for replacing flat stuff but for round stuff eg handles etc wire or even the kit part is better. Voyager etch is normally pretty good. Wash it all in hot soapy water. Then Scratch with the tip of a scalpel where you apply the glue it will help it key and make the joint stronger.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the tips Paul.

This part of the instructions had me completely baffled for a while. I've since figured it must be a jig to mark out where extra holes need drilling rather than it being a piece that needs fitting. Purpose for those holes is still unknown though as they don't appear later, nor does it say if I should do the panel on the opposite side. Hopefully it will become clear as mud as I progress :smiling5:

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[scottie3158]

Andy,
It looks to me like there not holes but to dimple ready for part E6 which are on the sprue you posted but I could be wrong so check again.

 

[Steve Jones]

I agree with Scottie that the holes are for the PE screw heads to be put over. The two horizontal holes are for the grab handle.

 

[Guest]

Ah yes! Makes sense now.

That might shed some light on other parts of the destructions I'm not quite sure on too. Thank you both.

 

[Guest]

It seems a few of us are at similar stages, with similar piccies, but here are mine anyway

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A lot more mould lines and sanding than I was expecting but everything fitted together perfectly.

Then it was time to brave the first of the PE :flushed:

Here is the kit part that it's intended for, a grenade rack I believe (dry fitted)

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I started off well, folding the four "boxes" for the bottom.

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But then we needed some glue action for the upper rail, and my record with CA isn't great. This was no exception lol. Stuck down to some 6MM fine line tape to keep the rail square and for scale.

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Many of the nicely rounded pieces have gotten deformed out of shape while wrestling to get them to stick, and I don't think one of them is properly in line or square :smiling5:

This travesty will probably end up in the spares box as even the kit part looks better, and it doesn't bode well for the rest of the PE either as much of it is even smaller than this. I gave it a bash, but until I get over my CA handicap I think I'll be putting the Voyager stuff back in it's box!

 

[Guest]

Andy I'm no expert with a kit and have an even a worse record with the black art of PE, but have you considered going over to Gator white glue for small sections of PE. ?It takes longer to dry of course( I've just been told ) but is easyer to use .
Taking a seat , can you crack on because I'm up to roughly the same part as you. Nice to see your track adjusters looks like my unglued one !

 

[Guest]

I think that's my next move John. Having spent this evening looking for alternative glues for PE it seems PVA types can be good for metal to metal, if weaker overall. I now have 7 different types of CA and don't have much success with any of them, so it's got to be worth trying something else.

I may also try gluing in the house where it's warmer. Trying to hold the piece in the exact position for a minute or so while the CA glue sets isn't particularly easy, and if I let go any sooner or try and just place it, the PE would rather stay stuck to my tweezers! So I've been applying CA, swapping hands and moving it into position with tweezers, then separating it from my tweezers and holding it in place with a scalpel blade, all whilst trying not to move it a fraction of a millimetre. There's got to be a better way :smiling5:

 

[Guest]

I think that's my next move John. Having spent this evening looking for alternative glues for PE it seems PVA types can be good for metal to metal, if weaker overall. I now have 7 different types of CA and don't have much success with any of them, so it's got to be worth trying something else.

I may also try gluing in the house where it's warmer. Trying to hold the piece in the exact position for a minute or so while the CA glue sets isn't particularly easy, and if I let go any sooner or try and just place it, the PE would rather stay stuck to my tweezers! So I've been applying CA, swapping hands and moving it into position with tweezers, then separating it from my tweezers and holding it in place with a scalpel blade, all whilst trying not to move it a fraction of a millimetre. There's got to be a better way :smiling5:

Oh Andy as soon as I use the scalpel blade blade, the part that wouldn't glue suddenly stick to the blade or tweezers. Like you I have CA, ranging from slow to fast , thin to thick . Trying to hold one piece in place ,grabing the spray can of activator, spraying my self as the nozzles pointing the wrong way is not my idea of fun !
Don't know why Gator glue is the recommended type, I've used PVA glue for years apart from water proof and quick setting they are all much the same to me as long as they were D3 and to BS they were used .

 

[Guest]

Looks a very decent start Andy! Totally agree on the PE being a nightmare especially the truly minuscule parts. I personally use a magnifyer headset for the PE. Regards CA I use a pack of wooden toothpicks. I dab the smallest amount on to where PE is to go and use same toothpick to pick up and place the part.

 

[Guest]

John, I see I'm in good company with my glue juggling antics.
I've seen the Gator brand recommended but also krystal klear, which I have, so will try that.

Thanks James, the actual kit is going together lovely and would probably be a two day build without the extras.

I've used tooth picks before for ca but have been using 0.3mm wire lately.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Good start Andy, i have always had issues with PE! I now make sure the PE is cleaned and scratched on the back with a fibre class pen, i like you use thin wire to apply. I always admire the skills of PE users