discussion Arrrghhh - decal silvering!

[Guest]

Right. I'm at the decalling stage of my Revell 1/32 Ju-88 build. I've done my usual process - gloss coat first, then decals applied using micro sol and micro set. Guess what - lots of silvering. Is there any way to remedy this before I put another gloss coat on to seal the decals?

 

[stona]

Try pricking the areas effected with a needle,or even slice large areas with a scalpel and then flood with some Klear.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Will do - thanks Steve

 

[Ian M]

I have noticed some times that even though you use a gloss coat of one form or another, the surface can still be a little rough. This is where the problem lies, as the silvering effect is trapped air in the surface of the paint.

We all assume that a quick splat of the shiny stuff will prevent this BUT and thats a big but if you missed that, if the surface of the gloss is not as smooth as you think, you will get silvering. Not in the same amount as if you didn't give any gloss. If you want to be 100% sure of no silvering, rub down the area to receive decals with wet and dry, then varnish with a high gloss. When dry check that it is really glossy and smooth. If it is, decal time! If not; rub down and give it a second coat of clear.

The suggestion from Steve is about all you can try once they are down and dry.

Good luck with it and let us know how it went.

Ian M

 

[Guest]

It went pretty well - thanks for the advice. Not all the silvering has gone, but it's a damn sight better than it was!

 

[stona]

If it's any consolation I just had some silvering on one of the serial numbers on my Hurricane which didn't reveal itself until I applied the matt gloss.

In slicing/stabbing the decal to get something underneath I damaged the top of the number four!

Now I've had to remove some of the matt coat,paint in a repair for the number and finally I'll have to reapply a bit of matt varnish.

And we do this for fun :lol:

Steve

 

[Guest]

I usually wet sand with 2000grit and it does help a lot,if you run your finger over the surface lightly and it sounds 'rough' or 'scratchy' you're in for a good chance of silvering.

 

[Guest]

And we do this for fun :lol:

Steve

:lol We say the same thing in competition airgun shooting....usually after a really poor score in an important competition after weeks of pre-practice!

But we always come back for more.:AR15firing:

 

[stona]

I usually wet sand with 2000grit and it does help a lot,if you run your finger over the surface lightly and it sounds 'rough' or 'scratchy' you're in for a good chance of silvering.

Good tip Trey,I do that too (with used 1500 grit). I like the surface to feel almost glass like. I think that despite that and a coat of Klear the surface wasn't perfect as the serial number lies across the textured fabric part of the fuselage and I obviously hadn't done as good a job as I thought.

It's looking okay now.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

I used to have terrible silvering problems when using Academy decals but I've read somewhere that coating the area with Klear/Future right before applying the decals (I mean with the Future still wet) will eliminate the silvering. I've tried it and it worked like a treat! It even eliminated the need for the setting solution. Cheers!

 

[stona]

Yep,the old Klear trick definitely works. I use it on small decals but I've got in a mess with larger decals,like 1/32 roundels or Balkenkreuze,so I tend to play safe with them. This is a reflection on my ability,not the technique!

Cheers

Steve