discussion Back flushing when cleaning AB?

[pjgtech]

I know that some peeps do back flush when cleaning their airbrush and some don't. EG: blocking the nozzle and applying (gentle) air pressure with AB cleaner inside, to force the cleaner back and to cause it to gently agitate/bubble up, etc.

The main objection to this practice seems to be a fear of getting paint further back inside the AB.

However, I've now watched loads of YT vids from various people and manufacturers and a lot of them, in fact almost all of them, do use this method as part of their cleaning practice. And interestingly one of the Harder and Steenback tutorial videos actually recommends back flushing.
I'll put a link below... the relevant bit is at about 8 mins into the video.

Harder and Steenback AB Tutorial vid

I reckon maybe years ago the manufacturing tolerences, quality control and seals, etc were maybe not as good as now, so maybe there was more of a risk of paint getting where it should not., and therefore maybe that has coloured some peoples opinions of the practice?

So, if the manufacturers are acknowledging and recommending this practice, then surely it must be ok?
NB: I have been using this technique, and have had no issues with paint getting where it should not, so far....

But hey, what the hell do I know as a total noob to AB'ing....
I suppose we all just gotta find what works for us, but thought it noteworthy of a mention.

 

[PaulTRose]

I've always done it and never had a problem

Apart from one brand who's name escapes me now but they've gone bust anyway.... Totally different design of ab but back flushing was a big no no cos of how it worked.... Could really damage it

 

[Andy T]

I backflush, but as you say, some think it's the work of the devil!

 

[Jim R]

I back flush but not by covering the nozzle. My needle cap has holes around it and so it's hard to cover. I loosen the needle cap and nozzle cap slightly. I allow air and watch for bubbles in the paint cup.
My cleaning method is ....
Turn air to maximum and allow full needle travel.
Empty any remaining paint.
Appropriate thinner in cup and wipe round with an old brush. Spray that through.
Repeat until thinner comes out clean.
Put Premi-Air Liquid Reamer into the cup and back flush as above.
Tighten needle/nozzle cap and put some thinner in the cup. Spray through and check there are no bubbles in the cup.

Works fine for me. Once in a while I remove the needle and make sure it's clean. Spray Reamer into a tissue and wipe needle. Lubricant and reassemble.

 

[pjgtech]

Maybe has something to do with the little white teflon type seals most AB's seem to have now at the critical points, (NB: I know there are some silicone washers/seals too in other parts). The teflon ones are pretty good, so presumably don't wear, etc as fast as older ones used to?
As an airgun target shooter, there are sometime steflon type parts in the internals and they are used for the same reasons, eg: cheap material, easy to work with, can get good tolerences, it has good life expectancy even with heavy use, etc, etc.

NB: as an apprentice plumber, a long, long time ago, PTFE was one of my favourite words (PolyTetraFlouroEthylene) mainly cos it was just about the only truly long word that I knew! PTFE....which is basically...... Teflon.