Theme editor

Scale Model Shop

Badger 100 brush

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Status
Not open for further replies.
Thread owner
yes we do actually have plastic milk bottles here in darkest Africa, paper ones too LOL! That is if we don't get eaten by the lions that roam the streets on the way to the corner shop
:laughing: I didn't mean it like that, I believe some countries do not wast oil based products like the UK and stick to paper cartons which may not be quite as good for practice.
 
Thread owner
No worries Garham, just giving you a hard time!

Here the gov is more worried about "other" things than to worry about oil produckts!

Theuns
 
Thread owner
Well, I sprayed the M1A2 today using Tamiya acrylics (not thinned) and was able to get the fan down to about 2-3 mm wide total with minimal overspray.It could be that my enamel was thinned to much.I must say the tamiya works alot easier than the humbrol, but is allot more eazy to scrach of though :-(

Theuns
 
\ said:
I must say the tamiya works alot easier than the humbrol, but is allot more eazy to scrach of though :-(Theuns
Acrylics dry fast but take longer to "cure" and can be fragile for several hours. You can spray other coats or colours but I'd be wary of masking too soon. I have a plastic box with pipe insulation fitted to the top edges to sit my models on, the insulation gives a soft round profile and doesn't cause hangar damage. I'm sure there are piccies in one of my build threads.

Cheers

Steve
 
Thread owner
I have found that even after a few days the acrylic is hard and dry, but if you were to rub it with a finger nail it would scrath off the plastic. Granted, I didn't scuff the plastic, I was to lazy and just wanted to see what the acrylic looks like aplied with an airbrush.

Otherwize I am happy with it , starting to learn the airbrush a little better now.

How do u lads prep the model for acrylics? I now that it can never stick as well as enamels.I usually wash it and scuff the model with steelwool or scoth brite for enamels, seems to stick well then.

Theuns
 
Thread owner
Hi Theuns,

I use IPA 170 and then spray the model with a light coat of enamel matt varnish. Let the varnish dry and then use Acrylic Paints. Then when you are happy with the job, give a final coat of matt, saturn, gloss enamel varnish to protect it.

I hope this helps,

Regards,

Leslie.
 
Thread owner
Ok, so if I read correctly you use the enamel matt first to give the model a "key" for the acrylic to grip to? Makes sence :-)

Thanx

Theuns
 
Thread owner
\ said:
Ok, so if I read correctly you use the enamel matt first to give the model a "key" for the acrylic to grip to? Makes sence :-)Thanx

Theuns
Hi Theuns,

Yes that's correct, then when the varnish has dried properly (after 24 hours) you can then use Acrylics and then when they are dried which would be after a few hours, apply a few coats of the varnish you deside to use as the final protection coat.

Regards,

Leslie.
 
Thread owner
What do you mask with over the acrylics ?I use 3m fine line masking but run my finger over it to take the worst sitck off.It works ok on enamels, how about acrylics?

Theuns
 
Thread owner
Hi Theuns,

I use a special low tack flexible masking film called Ultra Mask from www.airbrushes.com It is made by Artool Inc in the US.

It is professional grade and can be re-usable. It can be cut with a sharp knife whilst on a model.

Regards,

Leslie.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top