discussion Bf109G6 Early Version

[Vaughan]

Hi all

Have made a start on the rest of the plane at last. Airbrush seems to be behaving it's self so getting some where with the spraying. The RLM04 was a bit tricky but as everyone knows spraying yellow is not easy.

Vaughan

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[stona]

Nice work there Vaughan.

When you come to do the armour behind the pilot you might want to cut out the centre of the kit part and fit a bit of clear plastic. On your version of the Bf109 there was a panel of armoured glass inserted into the plate. I know Trumpeter somehow missed this. It was supposed to help the view to the rear but was later discontinued. I''ve managed to crop a half decent image of it from one of the photos on my HD.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Vaughan]

Hi Steve

Thanks for the image. Someone else had mentioned to me about the glass panel it's going to be fun trying to cut out the panel as the plastic is very thick but will give it a go. Any hints on cutting only have a scalpel and a pin vice with different size bits.

Vaughan

 

[stona]

Any hints on cutting only have a scalpel and a pin vice with different size bits.Vaughan

I'd take my time with a scalpel and not try to cut too close to the edge. You can always work out towards the edges with some filing and sanding. I've heard of people using clear decal paper to simulate the glass rather than trying to inlay some clear styrene. Presumably one piece on each side.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Vaughan]

Hi Steve Thanks will take your advice and let you know how I get on.

Vaughan

 

[Vaughan]

Hi all

Have had a go at cutting out a window for the glass panel. Looks ok and have used Clearfix to produce a window. Here's what it looks like at the moment says that you need to leave it overnight so will see what it looks like in the morning.

Vaughan

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[Vaughan]

Hi there Steve I noticed on the image you posted that the ariel mast appears slightly offset to the centre line of the fuselage? or is it a shadow from the ariel wire?

Vaughan

 

[stona]

MMMMmmm! Initially I thought that the line was the panel line which runs down the spine of the Bf109 and that the mast was off set which would be odd. This is a reconnaisance aircraft and I suspect that the panel line (where the skins from the port and starboard sides meet) has been filled and smoothed because I can't see it at all.

On close examination you can see the shadow of the insulator (just at the join between the rear part of the hood and fuselage) which is inline with that line which I think is indeed the shadow of the aerial wire. The mast is on the centreline. The sun was high in the sky when the photo was taken.

Cheers

Steve

 

[The Migrant]

Great work so far Vaughan, good job on the window in the armoured panel

 

[Guest]

Hi

I really like the Me 109 G6, I am following this closely. I have one, started to ten months and stopped because I did not like how was doing. It may be that this re-touch it.

One question, because the problem is the same. As the simulated glass to protect the pilot?

Thanks

 

[stona]

Hi One question, because the problem is the same. As the simulated glass to protect the pilot?

Thanks

Yes Antonio,it was armoured glass and formed part of the back protection for the pilot. It was deleted on later dash numbers (I'm not at home so I can't look it up at the moment) and they went back to a steel armour plate with no "window".

It was supposed to make it easier for the pilot to look behind.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Vaughan]

Hi all

Slow progress so far weather is too nice at the moment and gets too hot once the sun is round to my garden room so early starts or evening times. Anyway have the fuselage halves together a bit of a struggle with the engine and cockpit as it's a long bit of plastic with lots of glueing points plus photo etched rudder hinges to contend with. Got there in the end. Wing halves together opted for the wing canons(yet to be attached) more photo etched hinges on the flaps fitted well though lots of pegs and tape used.

Wings and fuselage mated tape used to maintain the correct dihedral and close the seams up looking good.

Have got some Modelair thinners on order so will start masking off ready for spraying so guess that will be next week before there is any more progress.

Vaughan

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[stona]

Looks very nice. I always enjoy the bit where you get something that looks like an airplane. I hope you're not planning to hang out the washing any time soon!

Cheers

Steve

 

[Vaughan]

Hi Steve

Thanks for the comments I agree with you, you feel like your getting somewhere.

On a side note regarding cleaning your model prior to construction? I notice that when you built your JU88 that you washed the sprus with parts attached. They were sat on your draining board and I think you made comment about the fact that you struggled to get them on all at once. How important is it as considering you will handle the parts through the construction process.? I know it's obvious that your hands should be clean and free from grease otherwise it may affect paint adhesion. I might have answered my own question there. But are there chemicals or lubricants used in the molds during manufacture? and so it's a good idea to wash them. I might of answered another question there again.

Vaughan

 

[spanner570]

Taking shape nicely now Vaughan.

You certainly did answer your own Questions lol! It's the release agent put on the moulds you have to remove.

When you have washed them, let the sprues dry naturally, don't use a cloth or bits will stick to the plastic....you might not see them with the naked eye, but you sure will when paint gets put on!

Don't like I did, start to build a model after eating a bacon butty, forgetting to wash my hands first....

Cheers,

Ron

 

[Vaughan]

Thanks for that Ron

Yeah I know I should have of worked that one out but I think it's good to have confirmation from other modellers.

Vaughan

 

[stona]

As Ron said. I've always washed my models but I know people who don't. I just feel safer knowing that any potential hazard to my painting has been removed. As far as handling goes I always try to minimise it and as Ron says make sure your hands are clean. Some people wear latex gloves to handle the model but I'm afraid that's a step too far for me.

I prime with Halfords plastic primer and this can be given a wipe with a cloth (lint free) moistened with alcohol before final painting which also helps remove bacon butty type fingerprints!

Cheers

Steve

 

[Vaughan]

Hi Steve

Another obvious question but do you wash them with a detergent such as washing up liquid? or just water?

Vaughan

 

[Vaughan]

Hi all

Impatience has got the better of me and I started spraying again (couldn't wait till the thinners arrived and the thought of not being able to work on it over the W/E as will be too busy). White went on ok on the tail section allowed to dry and masked off to allow to carry on with the demarcation band in yellow. Started ok (having flushed through the brush ready to spray the yellow) but once again that old droplet started appearing on the needle tip. Wiped several times and eventually flushed through the brush again. I must admit that the yellow is getting low in the bottle so don't if it is starting to thicken up(should've waited for the thinners). Got there in the end and it doesn't look too bad.

Anyway that's all until I get the modelair thinners.

Vaughan

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[stona]

Hi Steve Another obvious question but do you wash them with a detergent such as washing up liquid? or just water?

Vaughan

Good old Fairy Liquid!

It looks good,which markings did you decide to do in the end?

Cheers

Steve