discussion Bloody decals!!!!!!!

[Guest]

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im at my wits end with this build guys, the plane looks great, masked and painted to the best of my ability but every decal Iv tried to apply has been a nightmare. Peeling back off, curling up at the corners etc etc
I cut the decal out

Soak in warm water

Slide into designated area

Carefully pat dry with a paper towel until set

I'm tearing my hair out cos I want this model to look good

Any tips, hints, step by step guides??

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[Guest]

"Ooo a Mustang." Was my first thoughts. xD Sorry, that I can't help you. I too had problems setting decals on my first model and all models. I don't really get how people do it so I usually try to paint them on. I think I like painting them on more. ;-)

 

[Guest]

Stuart. I do exactly more or less. Must be horrible decals.

using micro sol and microset. Put this in your browser and there are 3 clips there which will help on the problem.

Laurie

 

[Alan 45]

Sounds like there old decals or your water is too warm or you've held them too long in the water only option is replacements imo

 

[Guest]

I have pretty much identical decals that I didn't use in another mustang kit. I've called it a night and will try again tomorrow

 

[AlanG]

Like Laurie I use microsol and microset. I find these make it a lot easier to move around and form decals. Worst decals I've ever used are Italeri ones. I would have hoped Tamiya have a way better quality control

 

[BarryW]

The worse I have used were Trumpeter. Utterly awful on every Trumpy kit I have built they just disintegrate. I have taken to automatically sourcing aftermarket marking now for any Trumpy kit I buy.

 

[Guest]

Like Laurie I use microsol and microset. I find these make it a lot easier to move around and form decals. Worst decals I've ever used are Italeri ones. I would have hoped Tamiya have a way better quality control

My apologies gave the wrong impression Allyne. I only use the Micros when in trouble. I use only water as I find that the best for me. Found when the micro soften the decals it is not so easy to manipulate. Also found the Micros dry out much faster than water. But once in position i will resort to them to flatten out to the contours.

Not disagreeing with Micros only stating my preference. Like all things if it works with your technique that is perfect.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Just remembered. I have Micro Liquid Decal Film. This helps in restoring some what old decals and just dodgy ones

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Sometimes when the decals are old the glue goes off, I have had the same and used future as a setting base.

You brush on s pool of future, slip the decal i n place and carefully pat it dry.

You need to work fast though as the future becomes sticky quite fast.

Theuns

 

[flyjoe180]

Sorry to hear you are having difficulties with the decals Stuart. In addition to the above, did you apply a gloss coat prior to applying the decals? A smooth surface allows the decals to adhere more easily to the surface of the model.

 

[Snowman]

I had a similar issue with decals on a Honda NSR 500, they were thick and brittle - no joy!!

Ditto on the Micro Sol & Set products, they work, but only if the decals will allow for it........

Plan B is to order separate decals, places like Hannats stock tons of decal options.

Have a peek at their site: http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?search=1%2F48+mustang+decals

 

[Guest]

Hey Stuart, I apply my decals with a firm reasonably pointed small brush, ensuring the film back is wet with glue from the decal sheet as it slides on to the model. I also usually add a drop of well diluted PVA glue for added stick on curvy parts. Never press it down with cloth imo, use the brush to push excess water and glue out whilst fine positioning. Working fairly quickly, brush excess off with wet brush before it dries or it shows on the kit, especially I would say on silver finishes. Use the Sol or other similar product then to soften the decal film. Brush it sparingly from the inside to outer edges taking care not spoil the decal positioning. Seal carefully with thin fresh Klear. See how it sucks down as it dries over an hour or so. Sorry about the long winded explanation ha ha.

 

[takeslousyphotos]

I always use a cotton bud to dry them off instead of paper towel

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I always add some Micro Set to the water I soak my decals in, it's a tip Flory talks about and since I've been doing it I never have any issues with decals laying down nice and flat and staying in place. Course I do find I have to order Micro set more often now

Adrian

 

[Guest]

I have found it best not to soak decals at all. I have a decal bath. I lay the decals on the serrated plastic base with the backing upmost. Then I give short a squirt of water from an indoor plastic flower squirter. Just enough to damp the backing. Wet the plastic and lay the decal with its backing on the plastic in its final position and just slide the backing away from the decal "not the decal from the backing". No need for any Micros except in exceptional circumstances.

If you use Micros they will soften the decal and make it more difficult to position as the decal has lost surface tension (the water floats the decal) that water has. Micros will also weaken the decal as they soften the decal material.

My advice is water. Only use Micros as a last resort where the decal is in position and wrinkles have occurred or .where silvering is a problem.

I have used the above method time and time again and even very complicated decals bending in 3 directions have gone down perfectly.

It does help to make sure that as smooth a surface as possible is achieved to the paint surface. If a really smooth surface can be achieved I have found there is no need for a gloss varnish surface. Another thing which I have found is to cut around up to the decal, which is not always possible, but if you can it takes out any possibility of silvering plus it look better as you do not have a border around the decal which even without silvering is very obvious

Laurie