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boatman's 1/72 HMS Tiger C20 build

Thread owner
Have you got inline fuses from your motors? Maybe also a inline fuse on the lighting circuit, just in case.
AN THE LIGHTING an servos circut is again a seperate circut with their own 5 amp fuse x 4 in the PDB board pic below Si so this is how i wired up all my ships but i must admit that ive never used the PDB board so thats a new thing in the circut but thats what it ment to do distribe the power evenly through out the circuts of the ship
chris IMG_6836.JPG
 
Thread owner
Plenty for thought there Chris from the guys on the batteries .
Sure you'll sort it, but at the moment becoming a frustrating problem .
You definitely need those fans to keep the kit running well .
HI John yes this is a frustrating problem as ive never had this prob before on all my ships so must be something like the PDB board that ive fitted or that voltage reducer as its getting hot when things are running but got to be sorted i just fitted the mini 6v fans just in case i may need them as no good building the S/S an then realising i need them cooling fans fitted do it would be a lot of reworking to do but all i will do is just dissconect the fans wires in the hull an tag them fans so if i do want to use them again all ive got to do is reconnect them so no probs thanks John for stoppin ATB
chris
Chris
 
Strange Chris. The lead acid shouldn't cause a problem, even under load, if they were weak and not holding a charge properly I would expect a drop out without much heat.

I remember the fused PCB, rogot about that, sorry. Stumped to be honest, only difference to your other boats is the PCB, maybe you need more heavy gauge wiring or the board is goosed.

Hope you manage to figure it out.
 
Thread owner
What multimeter do you have Chris?
Could you split the power circuit of Tiger into sections and measure the current in each?
Pete
HI again Pete this is my multi meter i presume what you mean IMG_6927.JPG
 
Thread owner
What multimeter do you have Chris?
Could you split the power circuit of Tiger into sections and measure the current in each?
Pete
AN Pete that how ive designed the power system around two batts as ive done this on all my ships so one batt to power all asserorys an one batt to power the motors so its a two circut system an ive never had this problem before as my nimtz an my now norfolk are both desinded like this an they ran lovely
CHRIS
 
Thread owner
AN IF it comes to it to have more power than i may fit this 20 amp hr monster batt but its so bloomin heavy but the ship is desinded to take the wheight but this is only as a last resort an you can see how big it is an the scales when i wheighted it went right off the an hit the stop but have to be very carefull with this if the strap brake an it drops on our feet it would break the foot an then hospital job
the monster batt IMG_6929.JPG
 
Might be the voltage reducer, though the byproduct of dropping voltage is heat - simple way of dropping the voltage is by fitting a 6v light bulb in series (the wire comes from the positive side of the battery, and then carries on, but not to the negative terminal) also acts as a fuse;)
 
Thread owner
Just had a quick catch up on this epic build Chris. The Helicopter hangers look the business and the lighting really does bring the whole ship to life. I've run out of superlatives to describe this build. Suffice to say you're a very talented man!!!

All the best mate
Paul
HI Paul yes hanger bay does look good an even better when i fit in x 2 1/72 seakings bein serviced by the ground crew
( Suffice to say you're a very talented man!!! ) well Paul im beginning to wonder about that i may have over reached myself on this ship
chris
 
Chris, not really at all 'up' on electronics, just got a sort of grounding in electrics due to running old motor bikes, and fault finding on them.
 
Hi Chris
I really hope this power issue gets sorted. So much has gone into this amazing build it seems so unfair that you have such a problem at this stage. Keep at it. You have the skill, the patience and Jen to support you :thumb2: :rolling:
Jim
 
Thread owner
That photo is superb , just shows the level of devotion and or madness Chris.
Hope you are both well .
HI John well i dont know about devotion and or madness but i :thinking: think madness maybe closer:rolling::smiling::smiling::smiling:an yes we are well thanks an hope you an mangement are well
ATB
Chris an jen
 
OK Chris, so your multimeter is 10 amp max.
You could take out any of the fuses in your power system and connect your meter instead of the fuse - move the red lead to that empty red socket marked 10ADC first. By doing this you can measure the current in each of the fused circuits without risking much - most of those multimeters will withstand an overload for at least a few seconds.
Pete
 
Thread owner
Strange Chris. The lead acid shouldn't cause a problem, even under load, if they were weak and not holding a charge properly I would expect a drop out without much heat.

I remember the fused PCB, rogot about that, sorry. Stumped to be honest, only difference to your other boats is the PCB, maybe you need more heavy gauge wiring or the board is goosed.

Hope you manage to figure it out.

HI Again Si all what you have said i what ive been thinking as i admit its a complex model an would have been more if i had got away with what i planned to fit but its all on hold till this is sorted
CHEERS Si for your help much appreacited as all you guys thank you but when i do cure it i'll let you all know
chris
 
Thread owner
Might be the voltage reducer, though the byproduct of dropping voltage is heat - simple way of dropping the voltage is by fitting a 6v light bulb in series (the wire comes from the positive side of the battery, and then carries on, but not to the negative terminal) also acts as a fuse;)
YES Si an many thanks for the idea but i think i'll fit a new voltage reducer first an see how that goes as this is just goin to be a proccess of elemination is 'nt it
chris
 
Thread owner
Chris, not really at all 'up' on electronics, just got a sort of grounding in electrics due to running old motor bikes, and fault finding on them.
BASICALLY like me Si im the same i can wire up a fused circut easy with a switch in it goin to some gadget an neg back to batt but when goin through multi wires then the problems seem to arise
chris
 
Thread owner
Hi Chris
I really hope this power issue gets sorted. So much has gone into this amazing build it seems so unfair that you have such a problem at this stage. Keep at it. You have the skill, the patience and Jen to support you :thumb2: :rolling:
Jim
HI Jim yes it does seem unfair after all the bloomin effort that gone into this ship model an money an then get a problem like this but i'll just have be patience an hope i can solve this prob as at the moment its the blind leading the blind
hope jen can keep me goin with tea an biccies lol
chris
 
Thread owner
OK Chris, so your multimeter is 10 amp max.
You could take out any of the fuses in your power system and connect your meter instead of the fuse - move the red lead to that empty red socket marked 10ADC first. By doing this you can measure the current in each of the fused circuits without risking much - most of those multimeters will withstand an overload for at least a few seconds.
Pete
HI Pete do you mean take the fuse out in the PDB BOARD ? as its a very exspensive bit of kit so i dont want to mess about any where near it but thank you for your info but i think i'll cocentrate first on that ole power reducucer bein replaced with a new one an see what happens as if it still get hot then i'll know that its not that as these are very good units as ived used several of these on my other ships an they all ok
chris ( phew guys im pooped) BUT ALL OF YOU MANY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
 
Well the only advice I can give when it comes to electrics is don't use the toaster in the bath!
Looking at what you've achieved so far Chris it's another setback that I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of just like you have everything else. Let's face it, you obviously relish a challenge or you wouldn't have started this build. :thumb2:
 
Thread owner
Well the only advice I can give when it comes to electrics is don't use the toaster in the bath!
Looking at what you've achieved so far Chris it's another setback that I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of just like you have everything else. Let's face it, you obviously relish a challenge or you wouldn't have started this build. :thumb2:

AN HI Mark yes i love a challenge but i like the sort where i can see what the challenge is in the first place here at the moment i cant see what it is or where so patience is the name of the game an if it comes to it a toaster in the bath maybe a good idea LOL LOL AN yes ive been through no end of challegers building the hull
cheers
chris
 
HI Pete do you mean take the fuse out in the PDB BOARD ? as its a very exspensive bit of kit so i dont want to mess about any where near it but thank you for your info but i think i'll cocentrate first on that ole power reducucer bein replaced with a new one an see what happens as if it still get hot then i'll know that its not that as these are very good units as ived used several of these on my other ships an they all ok
chris ( phew guys im pooped) BUT ALL OF YOU MANY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
Chris, you can take out any of the plug-in fuses and put them back in later, just as you'd need to if one of them blew.
Pete
 
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