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boatman's 1/72 HMS Tiger C20 build

They look like plug-in fuses from here Chris. but I can't be certain without seeing them up close. Try giving one a gentle wiggle while tugging on it.
Pete
 
Thread owner
They look like plug-in fuses from here Chris. but I can't be certain without seeing them up close. Try giving one a gentle wiggle while tugging on it.
Pete
what Pete you mean in the PDB Board yes they are plug in fuses but in the pic just as they came from the manfacturese but ive now put in all 5amp orange fuses an yes they come out here a better pic of it IMG_4941.JPG
 
Thread owner
Yeah, agree they are spade plug in fuses on the PCB board.
YEA you are right Si but i dont really want to mess about with this as its very costly
but first i'll try that voltage reducer replacement an if still a problem i will remove this board an just fit some in line fuses an then see if that make a difference
CHEERS GUYS BUT JEN is doin my tea soon so i'll leave it till tomorrow as no harm in getting as much info as poss before i start is there as there is plenty of time an i have to cut down the new voltage reducers as they are meant for use in a car ciggy lighter plug
chris
 
Fitting fuses isn't going to make a difference Chris, but those plug-in fuses are an easy place to measure the current.
Pete
 
Thread owner
Fitting fuses isn't going to make a difference Chris, but those plug-in fuses are an easy place to measure the current.
Pete
WELL Pete i dont want to endanger that PDB board so its only two screws to undo each end an then test the current comin through the wire as the board will be out of the circut if you see what i mean
 
Chris, you can't endanger anything by measuring the current in the fuses, but alternatively you could just disconnect one of the 12V Input wires from the screw terminal and connect your meter between the removed wire and the terminal. The problem with that is that you'll be measuring the total current flowing into the board, which might be too much for your meter, and won't tell you which of the circuits is taking a high current.
Here's another idea: disconnect the +ve outputs from that PDB board, set the meter to 10A, connect it between the wire you removed and the terminal you removed it from. That will tell you how much current each of those 4 circuits is taking.
Pete
 
Thread owner
Pete so on the meter its the amps setting on the right hand side correct ? an what do i set the meter dial at the 10 amps ?
 
Well if your 5A fuses haven't blown (they should normally blow at 10A), then it doesn't look as though there's a fault on those 4 lines.
 
Looking at your meter Chris, put the red plug into the socket near the 10A, then turn from 'Off' to the 10A mark (4 o'clock)
 
Thread owner
Well if your 5A fuses haven't blown (they should normally blow at 10A), then it doesn't look as though there's a fault on those 4 lines.


HI Again Gerry if you look at the wireing pics a few pages back you will see that so far im only useing two circuts on the board an maybe thats where the trouble is maybe i should open up the wires an use all four circuts on the board ?
chris
 
HI Again Gerry if you look at the wireing pics a few pages back you will see that so far im only useing two circuts on the board an maybe thats where the trouble is maybe i should open up the wires an use all four circuts on the board ?
chris
I'd keep it as simple as you can, especially during fault finding, I'd suggest as Pete said, check each circuit used. Fuses are 'strange' things, I've had them quite happily run at 50+% 'overload' (so a 5A will run 7.5A - though in my case it was 15A running 25A! :surprised: ) or, blow at slightly over rating
 
YEA Gerry got that
Yes, that's it Chris, thanks Gerry.
Fuses can have one of two kinds of 'rating' - some are marked with the current at which they are expected to blow within some time period, others are marked with the current they can carry continuously. Most need at least 10 times the marked current to blow immediately.
Pete
 
HI Scottie yes she looked very nice with all 4 radars goin an all red A/C lights an the steam unit steaming away from the front funnel but pity about power shortage but may do away with the right hand cam as i only have 2 x12 unit goin all rest are 6v in an attemp to conserve power
Chris, I only just spotted this. Using 6V won't conserve power, in fact the opposite as it has to be converted from 12V, which might be why your 'power converter' is getting hot. What you could do is to connect two of the 6 volt fans in series (negative of one to positive of the other) and then run them from 12 V.
 
Thread owner
Yes, that's it Chris, thanks Gerry.
Fuses can have one of two kinds of 'rating' - some are marked with the current at which they are expected to blow within some time period, others are marked with the current they can carry continuously. Most need at least 10 times the marked current to blow immediately.
Pete
Yes, that's it Chris, thanks Gerry.
Fuses can have one of two kinds of 'rating' - some are marked with the current at which they are expected to blow within some time period, others are marked with the current they can carry continuously. Most need at least 10 times the marked current to blow immediately.
Pete

WELL MANY THANKS YOU TWO as thats something i dint know as i thought if it says 5 amps then any more power over an it will blow but no can take half as much again :thinking: wow you guys knock spots off me on eletrics maybe i should hand the ship to you two to sort it out LOL:tongue-out3::smiling5::smiling5::smiling5: ONLY JOKEIN GUYS as i wll get to the bottom of it just gonna take a bit of time an im hopeing my new boaty m8 may know more than me as he has just jioned this forum but not had time to put anything on yet as he has had a funeral to arrange an he runs a bussiness i think
CHRIS
 
Thread owner
Chris, I only just spotted this. Using 6V won't conserve power, in fact the opposite as it has to be converted from 12V, which might be why your 'power converter' is getting hot. What you could do is to connect two of the 6 volt fans in series (negative of one to positive of the other) and then run them from 12 V.

well its a good idea Pete only one problem im the type of person who likes when im fitting things like them 4x6v fans that i cant get to the wires as ive C/A them togeather on the S/S so cant get the wires apart but i'll have a look an see if it possible cheers again for the idea SO a lot to do starting tomorrow as really should have started to day but been on here all day but its been good as ive got some good info from you genorous guys on here MANY THANKS ALL
chris
 
well its a good idea Pete only one problem im the type of person who likes when im fitting things like them 4x6v fans that i cant get to the wires as ive C/A them togeather on the S/S so cant get the wires apart but i'll have a look an see if it possible cheers again for the idea SO a lot to do starting tomorrow as really should have started to day but been on here all day but its been good as ive got some good info from you genorous guys on here MANY THANKS ALL
chris
Even if you were to cut the wires (one positive and one negative on each pair) then bridge across would do it ;)
 
Thread owner
Even if you were to cut the wires (one positive and one negative on each pair) then bridge across would do it ;)
I DONT think i can do it Gerry as the wires are gluded right up to the fans but will have a look at them as there may be a bit of the wires up the side of the fans that finger crossed i havnt gluded so i maybe lucky then i can try you guys idea but im thinking of removeing these two fans as i just fitted them so the steam unit would get more air but i dont think they are needed now
chrisIMG_6016.JPG
 
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