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Brush painting ... to prime or not to prime..Acrylic or Enamel?

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Hi All,


I'm thinking about buying some proper paints and ditch the free ones that came in the kit. The main question I have is to prime or not?


The reason I ask is that I live in a small flat, no outdoor area and certainly no room for a spray booth. So airbrushing/spray can is something I can not do.


Since I'll be brush painting I'm wondering what is my best option?
 
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If you really can't spray anything, then you'd be best making sure the styrene is clean and de-greased before painting. Some folks wash their sprues as soon as they come out of the poly bag, mild washing up liquid, and not to hot, allow to air dry thoroughly. Then, just prior to painting, give the model a good wipe with IPA which you can get from the chemist. You shouldn't have too much problem after this, and remember, keep your initial coats thin, so as not to flood the detail.
 
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Also, do try more than one type of paint, in the early days, model air brushes well, and seems the default around here, but do have a look at Lifecolor, I've just tried them for the first time on my Tiger, and they also brush beautifully, plus, they have the added advantage (for brush painters) of having a standard screw top. Finally, I hope it goes without saying, buy the best brushes you can afford, for the final coats, if nothing else! The only way you are gonna find the ideal brush for you, is to try a few. And try to buy in a real shop, that way you can pick the best one in the rack - ie the one with the best point!
 
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Thanks!


I got some Humbrol brushes on order, should arrive today. I'll be going to see what paints are local to me at the weekend.


In the mean time, I'll wash the car body and stuff as suggested :)
 
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Enamels don't need primer, although many people do use it.


For acrylics, I'd say priming is essential. It gives a better surface for the paint to adhere to.


If you've got a table, then you've room for a spray booth. The one John sells in the Scale Model shop folds up for easy storage.


Before I built my own spray booth, I used a portable solder fume extractor from Maplins. Not as good as a booth, but much better than nothing.


If you plan to build cars regularly, then spraying will become a necessity IMHO.


4 or 5 thin brush painted coats, with a 48 hour gap between each coat will take a long time!
 
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I've primed my first model and I've noticed the primer gives the plastic a lovely texture not sure how much of this will show through on my gloss coats but the satin coats I've added look good.
 
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If your gonna prime stuff all the time airbrush will workout more economical as I've gone through a tin of primer on just 1 model and could have easily given it another coat if I was being particular on the paint finish.


I'm just starting again (like you) so concerntrating on the build and honing techniques so painting is not #1 priority atm.
 
Paul, you don't have to spray primer on your model. It is just as easy to brush paint the primer on - providing you use a small flat headed brush and a thin coat /coats.


When I do brush prime, I use Vallejo Air grey primer.


I hope this is of some help to you as an alternative to the assumption that perhaps primer usually needs to be applied with an A.B.
 
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\ said:
If your gonna prime stuff all the time airbrush will workout more economical as I've gone through a tin of primer on just 1 model and could have easily given it another coat if I was being particular on the paint finish.
I'm just starting again (like you) so concerntrating on the build and honing techniques so painting is not #1 priority atm.
A whole tin of primer? Blimey when I prime a tin lasts me at least 3 models
 
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Haha . My work area is covered in primer... I must have kept missing the model completely... Trying to do thin coats didn't go so well I guess :confused:
 
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\ said:
Haha . My work area is covered in primer... I must have kept missing the model completely... Trying to do thin coats didn't go so well I guess :confused:
Get some non surgical gloves off eBay Stuart! £5 delivered for 100 and that way you can hold the model when priming so you don't use so much ;)
 
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This is the only one I'll prime with a rattle can.


Air brush has arrived now so just gonna get a compressor and I'll start using that. Got a screw fix opposite work so will grab some gloves.


Paint isn't my priority on this model I'm just getting used to the prep and other techniques I was never brave enough as a kid to try. might give flocking a go to give the floor a carpet effect... Do you buy special powders or is there a household item you master builders have found?
 
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