discussion Dave's 1/35 ICM T-34/76 ( Late 1943 production )

[Dave Ward]

Sprue shots:
X 2

The ICM model comes with vinyl tracks, which I do not like, so I'm replacing them with MSD Individual links. These were sourced directly from the maker in Russia.

Several finishes, all in 4B0.......................


I've made a ICM T-34/85 before, I don't anticipate any fit problems - I just have to select the correct roadwheels - the spares box will grow a bit more. The ICM model looks good, but would be improved by better tracks, a metal barrel & PE grilles. - well 1 out of 3 will do
Dave

 

[Graeme C.]

Nice choice Dave, built the ICM T-34/76 Model 1943 without the cupola, really enjoyed building it, except for those rubber tracks!

 

[Dave Ward]

Nice choice Dave, built the ICM T-34/76 Model 1943 without the cupola, really enjoyed building it, except for those rubber tracks!

Those rubber tracks are a real downside to the ICM models ( which is why I got AM parts ) . ICM should take a leaf out of the Zvezda method of making tracks! ( I did the Zvezda T-34/85, as well! ) - Although Russian & Ukrainian relations are a bit fraught at the momen!
Dave

 

[Lee Drennen]

Nice looking Dave hope you enjoy building it

 

[GerryW]

Will watch with interest.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Another take on the icon….the Indy tracks look excellent as well. If nothing else they look easy to clean up :thumb2:

 

[Dave Ward]

Finally off and running - a brief period snipping & gluing, and the lower chassis & running gear is complete....

........and the roadwheels, idlers & sprockets - there are two sets of roadwheels & sprockets, so after removing the unwanted bits the wheels etc are assembled.

Both of these will be primed & basecoated - I always like to get the chassis & the tracks sorted, before moving on the the upper hull & turret ( which is why I started at stage 13 in the instructions ).
Dave

 

[Guest]

which is why I started at stage 13 in the instructions

Starting at step 1 is for non-advanced modellers

 

[Mini Me]

Back to the more involved kits....I take it you have mended up sufficiently , just take it slow and enjoy the build. Good luck with the individual links. I will follow with interest. Rick H.

 

[Dave Ward]

I primed & sprayed the chassis & wheels with AK3 Russian Green, I'll start to paint the rubber tyres next.
Individual track links started. They aren't 'working' tracks, but fit together nicely - using my best side cutters to get them off the sprue, there's no clean up needed!

I make my own link & length assemblies, the two straight runs are the bottom parts, between the first & last roadwheels. They're assembled on the back of a metal rule, which has a convenient groove. Once a run is dry assembled, I use the Revell Contacta needle to put small drops on each join. I'll leave those for a couple of hours to harden off before the next bits.
Dave

 

[Graeme C.]

Looking good Dave, I hope you're back to full health.

 

[Dave Ward]

I'm limiting my benchtime to an hour or so a day, and if I have the slightest twinge, I'll rest it for a day or so.......
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

Length runs assembled, primed & basecoated - I have one sprue of individual links to fill in any gaps...........

The individual links all fitted very well, no clean up or force needed. Curved sections for round the sprockets/idlers created by joining them flat, applying TET, allowing to dry for a few minutes, then forming round the actual parts. If you time it right, they won't stick to the part. I work out the lengths of the top & bottom runs by measuring distances between sprocket & idler axles ( top ), and first & last roadwheel axles ( bottom ). It's better to be a link or so short - it's easier to add one or two, than having to tear them off!.
Assembly will begin with the bottom run - a dot of CA on each of the inner roadwheels is the starting point. Hopefully the sequence of plain link - toothed link - plain link will work out, but if not, hidden by the sprocket! I use CA generally for final track assembly, quick grab being desirable!
Dave

 

[Mini Me]

Nice progress on this Dave :thumb2:

 

[Dave Ward]

A comparatively trouble free track assembly.

I know people struggle with individual links, but I assemble straight runs on a rule, and essentially make my own link & length tracks. Luckily the T-34 tracks are unidirectional, so you don't have to worry about left & right assemblies. These AM links are well formed & fit together snugly, albeit the plastic is a bit soft & too much glue melts them ( I won't show you the underside of the tank! ). Just a matter of dry fitting, before using the CA. I started with the bottom run, then added the sprocket & the idler, neither of these being glued yet, so I could rotate them for best fit. The last part was the top run, I'd left it short, and had to add two extra links per side. It worked out that I had tooth-blank-tooth all the way round! I still have about a dozen links spare, and the carpet monster hasn't been around................
I'll put this aside & make a start on the upper hull & turret - shouldn't take long it's pretty simple.
Dave

 

[Lee Drennen]

Nice updates Dave. The tracks look great

 

[Mini Me]

I agree with Lee.....I like the color you used for the tire of the road wheels....is it a custom mix or out of the bottle? Rick H.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Dave
Firstly I think you're being wise to "listen" to your hand - don't risk overdoing it.
Looks a nice kit and the replacement tracks are worth the extra outlay.
Jim

 

[Dave Ward]

I agree with Lee.....I like the color you used for the tire of the road wheels....is it a custom mix or out of the bottle? Rick H.

Rick,
the colour is AK3 Rubber Black..............
Dave

 

[GerryW]

Looking good, just wish that I could get a little more bench time