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Dragon M7 Priest

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I do hope you manage to rectify the situation. I am with the slowly but steady blade cutting brigade. It is such a great build it would be nice to see it work. Good luck
 
Ross,
Follow Jims method, the plasic should still be soft enough to allow you to cut the boxes free, but beware of sudden release, the last one finished up 2 inches along my finger..... :loudly-crying:
Mike.
 
Thread owner
Well some good news, I got the boxes off and they are now on in the correct orientation. I ended up using a sharp blade and TET then working my way under the boxes until I got enough movement to slice them off, a quick rub with a sanding stick and everything looks ok.

cheers
Ross
 
Hi Ross
That is excellent. The model was far too good to leave.
Bet you feel much happier.
Jim
 
Thread owner
Jim, thanks mate, yes happier now.

Making progress.

priest 7.jpgpriest 7a.jpg
priest 7b.jpgpriest 7c.jpg
priest 7d.jpgpriest 7e.jpg
priest 7f.jpg

Not many decals, not even a star and looking at the photos I see the F is not lined up, the joys of making up the markings yourself.

For the steel tools and the gun slide, I used AK Steel pigments on a cotton bud, I think it gives a better look than painted steel. First time using Dragon's DS tracks, they look good and are easier than the magic tracks but they come in about 1/2 a link too long.

cheers
Ross
 
Hi Ross
That looks very good. I have not come across the AK steel pigments but agree the results are very nice.
Jim
 
Thread owner
Jim, Thanks mate, I would guess any steel pigments would give the same result.

Paul, thank you sir.

cheers
Ross
 
Thread owner
Weathering is progressing nicely, now that we are getting near the end I added all the extra's.

priest 8.jpgpriest 8a.jpg
priest 8b.jpgpriest 8c.jpg

priest 8d.jpg

The next stage should tone down the oil work and bring it all together.

cheers
Ross
 
Very nice Ross. Looks like you are having a lot of fun. The stowage has worked well also. Look forward to seeing the next stage
 
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