discussion Glue for Diecast Parts?

[Guest]

What glue should I use for die cast (metal) undercarriage parts please? Is polycement OK?

 

[Guest]

I use a two part contact adhesive applied with a cocktail stick when I'm renovating diecast models.

Super glue will also work if you breath on the parts first (like you would if you were misting a mirror or your glasses to clean them. Its the moisture that sets the glue curing)

 

[Guest]

If you mean white metal or pewter,then use a two part epoxy adhesive,such as Araldite.Cyanoacrylate (super glue) will work but there can be issues with bonding, it also forms a brittle joint with poor shear strength.If you a talking of using a glue for plastic (solvent based) it definitely won't work.

Malcolm

 

[Guest]

I ommited to say that the super glue I mentioned above should be the gel type which I found better for sticking D&D lead/pewter/white metal figures...as Malcolm states normal super glue has a brittle join (more so than the gel i found)

 

[Guest]

Thanks folks. However, I didn't make it clear that I wanted to attach die cast undercarriage parts to the (plastic) plane model. That is, a metal to plastic bond.

I want to avoid any fast setting glue because I need time to adjust the angle of the undercarriage to the body.

 

[Vaughan]

Epoxy resin is your best bet Steve as this will give you time to adjust. On my white metal undercart that was fitted to the Sturmovik I built a while back I just used superglue and that worked fine for me as there was little adjustment needed.

 

[Guest]

Agree with Vaughan on this Steve. Epoxy Resin I have been using. I have Evo-Stick Rapid. Says rapid something like one minute. But it is more like 5 minutes or more giving plenty of time for adjustment.

I would rough up the plastic a bit to give bite as no glue sticks well to a smooth surface. Also clean the metal well as some times a release agent is used in the mould which prevents full use of the glues potential.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Ahh so its plastic to white metal ....

Therefore I concur with the above, contact adhesive would be my choice.

 

[Guest]

Steve,

You will find a two part Epoxy Adhesive (such as Araldite) will work,see my post above.

Malcolm

 

[Guest]

From looking at web sites, Evostick Rapid is a two-part epoxy, presumably like Araldite. I understand that this type of glue is not good for adhering to plastic. However, you Laurie seem to have success with it for metl to plastic joins.

As an alternative, CDW mentions contact adhesive. Evostick (not the rapid) I have used for years for various gluing jobs, both literally as a contact adhesive used after it has dried, as for laying laminates or anything that would need the glue to grip immediately, or used wet (as it comes from the tube). If wet it sets to a very firm rubbery mass. It sticks to everything on the planet. It sets quite firmly in about 10 minuets, so there will be enough time to set the parts at the correct angle.

I am still thinking on which way to go.

 

[Guest]

?..

 

[Guest]

From looking at web sites, Evostick Rapid is a two-part epoxy, presumably like Araldite. I understand that this type of glue is not good for adhering to plastic. However, you Laurie seem to have success with it for metl to plastic joins.

Steve have a look at Bostils web site Bostil being the producer of the glue.

Evo-stik Epoxy Rapid Tubes - A new high performance epoxy adhesive

They say that it will adhere to hard plastics. Just trying a bit between two odd plastic bits to see how strong it is.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Malcolm, I amended my original idea of using super glue, thus concurring with the general census of an alternative, therefore I personally would use contact adhesive over epoxy.

 

[Guest]

Steve have a look at Bostils web site Bostil being the producer of the glue.Evo-stik Epoxy Rapid Tubes - A new high performance epoxy adhesive

They say that it will adhere to hard plastics. Just trying a bit between two odd plastic bits to see how strong it is.

Laurie

I will do a test, joining a metal piece (a nail, I don't have any spare white metal) to a piece of thick sprue drilled with a hole to take the nail, using Evostick contact adhesive. Another identical except for using two-part epoxy.

I will report.

 

[Guest]

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[Guest]

I used Evostick contact adhesive for the joins wheelwell-cover-to-metal; wheel-to-metal, metal-to-model, both port and starboard, and for the rear wheel. It has formed a strong bond.

 

[Guest]

One glue which would have done the trick, I for got to mention, is Gator glue also marketed under the name Gorilla Glue.

Very tough glue which slightly expands as it cures. Can be moved for a while rather like Evostick the way it cures. Best to roughen the plastic to give bite. Can be, whilst still wet, wiped away with water. If you use apply frugally as it does expand a fraction & will using to much dribble foam out of the joint.

Laurie