G
Heyyyyyyyyyyy got ours this morning now deciding what to do with it!!!!!!1
Group Build Progress Page
- Thread starter wonwinglo
- Start date
- Status
G
to shed some light toby, yes the mk.1 did come with 3 different canopys, 2 yo could choose from for this kit and 1 that is not used (for your kit maybe) i have used the one with the 'pannel' in it...any one correct me if im wrong but wasnt this a little hatch for ventilation?
G
There was a little oval sliding ventilation panel on some which has obviously been faithfully reproduced on this particular kit. I would use it as it adds a bit more interest to the cockpit area.
During the life of the Spitfire she used a large variety of blown cockpits,check out a particular aircraft to see which one suits your model.
Dont forget to dip the canopy in Johnsons Klear/Future first, to get rid of that plastic look before assembling it to the fuselage,it will then look optically right just like real perspex from which the real ones were made,practise this on a piece of clear sprue first,simply dip and drain off the liquid,allow to cure overnight,stick the cockpit in place with thinned down PVA adhesive applied with a toothpick onto the edges,but never ever use plastic cement to do this job.
Dont forget to dip the canopy in Johnsons Klear/Future first, to get rid of that plastic look before assembling it to the fuselage,it will then look optically right just like real perspex from which the real ones were made,practise this on a piece of clear sprue first,simply dip and drain off the liquid,allow to cure overnight,stick the cockpit in place with thinned down PVA adhesive applied with a toothpick onto the edges,but never ever use plastic cement to do this job.
G
Nice tip Barry. Now i have to go trawl through my shed to find that PVA i bought in 1987. 
G
You can use johnstons clear for attaching the canopys as well. It works very well and if you put too much on you can't see it.
G
Ok, here I go again- is 1/48th big enough for me to install an electric motor?
Even I'm not sure if I'm joking or not but I'm well into 'Ignorance is bliss" and I sooooo curious to see what a plastic model will/won't do when powered.
Steve.
Even I'm not sure if I'm joking or not but I'm well into 'Ignorance is bliss" and I sooooo curious to see what a plastic model will/won't do when powered.
Steve.
G
Right im thinking cut out all the panels make engine and bearers open cockpit door and radio space open gun bays !!!! or do i do it crashed or how about a captured db605 engine varient ????? I got it now the three months timeing for it is not for building its for deciding what to do with the bloody thing
G
There are very small motors available nowadays. have a look at the two I fitted to my Revell U-Boat in the Boats section. They are actually servo motors so nice and small and light. I actually got two motors, a speed controller, receiver and substantial battery pack into the 1/72nd sub hull so a similar motor in a 1/48th Spit sounds feasible.
The motors were 16mm diameter.
The motors were 16mm diameter.
G
Well it will certainly spin the prop. You could install orange or yellow flashing leds with fibre optics to the exhaust stubs to simulate flame, maybe even a smoke system. A recording of a Merlin at idle thru mini speakers buried in the base using an old Walkman or similar. Anything you like ....except fly.
G
.Sorry, Double post (hit the button twice)
G
Cannopy
Barry, are you able to post or link to some photos with before and after shots? Ive heard of this technique for crystaling cannopies before but have yet to actually see an example where its really that noticeable?
I will be using a vac-formed one actually i think (i already have them in stock so free!)
MOTORS
Arhh, the old moving props, Frog used to include motorizing parts for several of their aircraft, and these were 1:72nd so 1:48th gives you much more scope!
The Frog motors are VERY VERY VERY hard to come by and actually too small, Tamiya 1:48th motors will fit almost straight in with a little work, however the only way to get them is to but the motorrized kits they come with! Both Airfix and Revell have produced motors but these are also hard to find!
The answer lies in your local "tandy" style store, a small motor running off a 9v or even 3v bat would do! Alternatively look at old scaletrix motors, electric fan motors and the like and use these!
As duncan says, adding moving parts and lights is also easy if you have the time and patience! Fibre optics can be purchases cheaply from you local pound shop...those weird "ufo" lights!!! Just chop off the tassles and hey presto, when combined with the L.E.D.'s of your colour you have fibre optic lighting! There used to be a fibre optic space station made by AMT that used this method very well!
OOOOO and remmber, where motors are concerned, brushless is best!
Barry, are you able to post or link to some photos with before and after shots? Ive heard of this technique for crystaling cannopies before but have yet to actually see an example where its really that noticeable?
I will be using a vac-formed one actually i think (i already have them in stock so free!)
MOTORS
Arhh, the old moving props, Frog used to include motorizing parts for several of their aircraft, and these were 1:72nd so 1:48th gives you much more scope!
The Frog motors are VERY VERY VERY hard to come by and actually too small, Tamiya 1:48th motors will fit almost straight in with a little work, however the only way to get them is to but the motorrized kits they come with! Both Airfix and Revell have produced motors but these are also hard to find!
The answer lies in your local "tandy" style store, a small motor running off a 9v or even 3v bat would do! Alternatively look at old scaletrix motors, electric fan motors and the like and use these!
As duncan says, adding moving parts and lights is also easy if you have the time and patience! Fibre optics can be purchases cheaply from you local pound shop...those weird "ufo" lights!!! Just chop off the tassles and hey presto, when combined with the L.E.D.'s of your colour you have fibre optic lighting! There used to be a fibre optic space station made by AMT that used this method very well!
OOOOO and remmber, where motors are concerned, brushless is best!
I've just poured Johnsons Klear over my canopy and the difference is amazing, what a great tip
Sorry squiff didn't see your post before doing it or I would have done a before and after shot
Sorry squiff didn't see your post before doing it or I would have done a before and after shot
G
iv never heard of this johnsons klear stuff, where can i get some?
nigel, i was going to do a crashed one...but when it comes to it, do get an authentic look its alot harder than it seams!, plus i dont have the time to do the complicated diorama that would be involved with a crashed one,
unless you go all "artistic" and get some tamiya sea-foam and say its one thats crashed into the sea....then you dont even have to buy a kit!
nigel, i was going to do a crashed one...but when it comes to it, do get an authentic look its alot harder than it seams!, plus i dont have the time to do the complicated diorama that would be involved with a crashed one,
unless you go all "artistic" and get some tamiya sea-foam and say its one thats crashed into the sea....then you dont even have to buy a kit!
G
Get Johnsons Klear at Tesco's, with the floor cleaning stuff, next to the dog biscuits and round the back of the cerial aisle.
G
Looks like i best be popping to tesco this evening then! ;-)
G
as anyone thought of doing a "seafire" conversion?
G
Seafire conversion is not as east as seems you need mark 9 nose and universal wing so i would avoid mate
G
well i was looking around for a conversion kit and a guy is selling a kit with all the conversion parts (resin and pe bits i think) going for not bad price either...!
- Status
Legal Notice
scalemodelling.co.uk is a privately operated online discussion forum. All content posted by members reflects their own views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of the forum owners or administrators. While reasonable efforts are made to moderate content, no responsibility is accepted for user-generated material. By using this site, you agree to comply with UK law and the forum rules.