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G
i would personally contact http://mad4motorsport.com for upgrade parts..
I phoned them up and i can save myself about £60 from them..You don't get a discount from hachette and you don't need the magazines to put them parts together cos it's basicly the same what you have done before..
The upgrade isn't really a upgraded,it's just version 2 of the ssk truck which came out..Hachette have decided to get the extra parts and use them for a upgrade..
I wouldn't get no-more stuff from hachette or thunder tiger in the truck range cos i don't think build quality is that good..I've had to replace the clutch bell race bearing after 3 use's of the truck (cos the race bearing failed on it)and i'm now using a 14 tooth clutch bell kit..less accelaration but more top-end and seems alot better for the truck...
Hachette's after sale is very bad and poor communation when you use there call centre..
I hope no-else has the problems i've experienced with them..
I phoned them up and i can save myself about £60 from them..You don't get a discount from hachette and you don't need the magazines to put them parts together cos it's basicly the same what you have done before..
The upgrade isn't really a upgraded,it's just version 2 of the ssk truck which came out..Hachette have decided to get the extra parts and use them for a upgrade..
I wouldn't get no-more stuff from hachette or thunder tiger in the truck range cos i don't think build quality is that good..I've had to replace the clutch bell race bearing after 3 use's of the truck (cos the race bearing failed on it)and i'm now using a 14 tooth clutch bell kit..less accelaration but more top-end and seems alot better for the truck...
Hachette's after sale is very bad and poor communation when you use there call centre..
I hope no-else has the problems i've experienced with them..
G
Got to admit had no complaints when i phoned hachette about replacing faulty engine mount. new part arrived in less than 2 weeks. threw a wobbler over weekend and have wrecked pull start (stupid boy). i'm not going for upgrade as i don't think it's worth paying out the extra cash for what i'll be using it for. still waiting for part 68 (got 69 & 70) to arrive at shop.
Your best off upgrading the self lubricating bearings in the hubs to ballraces to help the truck to run better atleast.I've got all 70 issues but is still in box till i decide to build it.
I'll be getting the upgrades because i have bought parts so i can convert the truck into a rally car when i want to so the upgrades will come in handy to give better top speed and smoother running.
I'll be getting the upgrades because i have bought parts so i can convert the truck into a rally car when i want to so the upgrades will come in handy to give better top speed and smoother running.
G
errors
As the first poster mentioned, I too have found errors in the instructions.
Page 22, magazine 5: The pictures with the lower rear suspension arms suggest that you have the "cranked" (bent) side foward (step 2). It even mentions using the photos as a reference (step 3).
Here's where the error is: In step 5, you have a picture of the rear diff with the pinion gear facing away from you. If you look at it, you can see the cranked or bent side of the suspension arm is also facing away from you. If you read the text - "Take the differential carrier, which you have already made and hold it so that the pinion gear sleeve is pointing away from you and offer up the right hand suspension arm (cranked side foward* so that the races match up with the supports on the differential carrier".
*foward - as in foward away from you and towards the front of the truck (ie wrong), or foward as in towards the viewer?
Even the instructions are wrong. If you look at the photo in step 7, it's wrong there. The photo in step 8 however is correct. So are the pictures on the following page, and they also match up with the exploded diagram on the back of the poster.
As the first poster mentioned, I too have found errors in the instructions.
Page 22, magazine 5: The pictures with the lower rear suspension arms suggest that you have the "cranked" (bent) side foward (step 2). It even mentions using the photos as a reference (step 3).
Here's where the error is: In step 5, you have a picture of the rear diff with the pinion gear facing away from you. If you look at it, you can see the cranked or bent side of the suspension arm is also facing away from you. If you read the text - "Take the differential carrier, which you have already made and hold it so that the pinion gear sleeve is pointing away from you and offer up the right hand suspension arm (cranked side foward* so that the races match up with the supports on the differential carrier".
*foward - as in foward away from you and towards the front of the truck (ie wrong), or foward as in towards the viewer?
Even the instructions are wrong. If you look at the photo in step 7, it's wrong there. The photo in step 8 however is correct. So are the pictures on the following page, and they also match up with the exploded diagram on the back of the poster.
Yes you are correct also in photo 4 he has put the grub screw in the wrong way and then fitted the suspension arm on the wrong side of the diff in photo5,6 and 7,but they must of corrected it for photo 8 when they realized it was wrong.
They should of made sure the guy building it new what he was doing so they wouldn't have mistakes in the instructions,i won't be using them to build it as i've built cars and stripped them down for afew yrs now so i can build this one without the instructions for once.
They should of made sure the guy building it new what he was doing so they wouldn't have mistakes in the instructions,i won't be using them to build it as i've built cars and stripped them down for afew yrs now so i can build this one without the instructions for once.
G
Hi Guys..
How come you all seem to be up to issue 70?
I subscribed to the package and I'm only up to issue 63. Whats going on???:thinking:
I also don't know whether to go for the 'extras'. It brings me back to a discussion on a previous thread and forum about the cost. The total cost of this 'kit' with the addons is approx £520 without any radio gear. (87 issues / 4 per issue x £23.96 = £521).
My gut feeling is, go for it but not to sign up for one of these types of kits again.
G
:thinking:
Bit weird. Going to drop a line to Hachette Partworks to see what is going on. I would have though that as a subscriber I would have taken precedence over shops. Don't get me wrong, I'm not being sarky towards peps that are getting it via shops. Fair play to ya!
All I'm saying is that I'd have been better off getting my local newsagent to order it for me rather than using my Credit Card as there appears to be no advantage to subscribing as peps obtaining it via shops are at least 7 issues ahead of me. :emo10:
Regards
Declan
G
Newcastle, Co. Down N. Ireland
Declan
G
Hah! how'd they make the mistake of getting the "suspension upright/knuckle-arm/hub-carrier" labeled incorrectly 
G
Hmm!!
Was looking at the rear suspension on mine and I swear that the right hand wheel is toeing in rather than running parallel(ish). The left side look fine.
I've built is as the issues arriver (4 at time - subscriber) and I have to say, there were a few places where the text and pictures confused me. I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. I'll post a picture tonight if I can.
Declan
Was looking at the rear suspension on mine and I swear that the right hand wheel is toeing in rather than running parallel(ish). The left side look fine.
I've built is as the issues arriver (4 at time - subscriber) and I have to say, there were a few places where the text and pictures confused me. I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. I'll post a picture tonight if I can.
Declan
G
:emo5: Hi i've finished my monster truck and i'm not going to bother get the other 17 mags. Here is a pic
G
Hi everyone. This is my first post; I'm in Adelaide, Australia, and currently have only just received Hachette Partworks NMT Issue 39, so I realise we're way behind you folks in the northern hemisphere.
My question relates to confusion I have regarding the correct orientation of the turnbuckles on the rear and front upper suspension arms.
My assumptions as to which is correct is that the larger diameter side of the hole in all of the turnbuckles, both rear and front, is oriented downwards, thus making insertion of the ball connectors easier. This side is indicated by the three small circles around the hole.
BUT, I have the turnbuckle sides with the three circles facing *upwards* on my completed rear suspension, as shown in most (but not all) pictures in the instructions. This must surely be wrong, yet I managed to connect the rear ball joints OK. Should I remove the rear ball joints, turn the turnbuckles so the side with the circles around the hole is facing downwards, and then refit the ball joints?
Similarly, regarding the front suspension turnbuckles (which I have not fitted yet), I am assuming the pictures in the instructions which seem to show the side with the circles around the hole is facing downwards *are* correct?
Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you!
regards,
Charles
My question relates to confusion I have regarding the correct orientation of the turnbuckles on the rear and front upper suspension arms.
My assumptions as to which is correct is that the larger diameter side of the hole in all of the turnbuckles, both rear and front, is oriented downwards, thus making insertion of the ball connectors easier. This side is indicated by the three small circles around the hole.
BUT, I have the turnbuckle sides with the three circles facing *upwards* on my completed rear suspension, as shown in most (but not all) pictures in the instructions. This must surely be wrong, yet I managed to connect the rear ball joints OK. Should I remove the rear ball joints, turn the turnbuckles so the side with the circles around the hole is facing downwards, and then refit the ball joints?
Similarly, regarding the front suspension turnbuckles (which I have not fitted yet), I am assuming the pictures in the instructions which seem to show the side with the circles around the hole is facing downwards *are* correct?
Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you!
regards,
Charles
Hi charles sorry for the delay in answering your post been abit busy but the three holes on the turnbuckle are just from the mold they were made in and don't mean anything,the turnbuckles can be faced either way holes up or down as it doesn't matter as there identical on both sides.
Heres a PDF file of the truck from Thunder Tiger and has a exploded diagram of the truck if you have anymore question just ask and i will answer as quickly as i can.
PDF file.
http://www.acehobby.com/ace/PDF/Car/6710SSKcatalog.pdf
Heres a PDF file of the truck from Thunder Tiger and has a exploded diagram of the truck if you have anymore question just ask and i will answer as quickly as i can.
PDF file.
http://www.acehobby.com/ace/PDF/Car/6710SSKcatalog.pdf
G
To Chris (Adzam) and Steve (Dynamite25), ***Thank You*** so much for your replies.
I'm so glad I can go on making my Hachette Partworks NMT (ie now ignoring the business of the three circles around the hole in one side of the turnbuckle connected to the upper suspension arms, thanks to your advice, Steve).
It is the first remote control model I have ever built (I'm in the throes of a second childhood at my advanced age [46] lol) and I am also very new to the environment of these forums in general.
I'll learn the PM-thing properly eventally, but for tonight (I also have a brand new job to learn, which I started this week, after 23 years in my old job), so for now, please can I thank you both publically on the forum, for answering my question!
I hope this message gets through to you OK, and I look forward to staying in touch.
Thanks again, guys, and happy modelling!
PS - No worries on the small delays; I (a) didn't really know what I was doing, when I originally posted here, and (b) you weren't put on this earth just to answer my bleats for help!
bestest,
Charles
I'm so glad I can go on making my Hachette Partworks NMT (ie now ignoring the business of the three circles around the hole in one side of the turnbuckle connected to the upper suspension arms, thanks to your advice, Steve).
It is the first remote control model I have ever built (I'm in the throes of a second childhood at my advanced age [46] lol) and I am also very new to the environment of these forums in general.
I'll learn the PM-thing properly eventally, but for tonight (I also have a brand new job to learn, which I started this week, after 23 years in my old job), so for now, please can I thank you both publically on the forum, for answering my question!
I hope this message gets through to you OK, and I look forward to staying in touch.
Thanks again, guys, and happy modelling!
PS - No worries on the small delays; I (a) didn't really know what I was doing, when I originally posted here, and (b) you weren't put on this earth just to answer my bleats for help!
bestest,
Charles
G
Hi Dynamite25/Steven
I reckon I've the perfect excuse to buy a set of Vernier calipers (would be handy for all kinds of things); does anyone know where (in Australia) would I be able to buy such, and any idea of cost?
Thanks,
Charles
Thanks again for your help! I did not realise the Hachette Partworks NMT was also called SSK Thunder Tiger... very confusing. And do you have any idea why Hachette waffle on about the supposedly "differing" hole diameters/three circles, when it is all untrue?
I reckon I've the perfect excuse to buy a set of Vernier calipers (would be handy for all kinds of things); does anyone know where (in Australia) would I be able to buy such, and any idea of cost?
Thanks,
Charles
G
NMT suspension question
Thank you so much for your previous help with the Hachette Partworks Nitro Monster Truck I'm building. I've got another problem, this time it is with the insertion of the white nylon piston sleeve onto the suspension of the NMT. In the instructions, it says "Insert the nylon piston [sleeve] on the damper rod, taking care to position it so that the __bevelled side of the piston__ is outermost on the damper rod"...
Well, what does this mean? Outermost on the damper rod means facing AWAY from the axle/wheel (ie TOWARDS the oil reservoir), surely? If I roll the piston vertically on a table surface, it rolls to one side, proving one face of the piston is smaller in diameter than the other, so this must be what they mean by "bevelled side". In other words, I am assuming I should make sure the smaller diameter face of the piston faces towards the oil reservoir. Is this correct? I have no idea if/why this is important, but physics in NOT my strong suit!
The term "bevelled" is confusing to me, because it really usually means, surely, a bevelled _edge_, for instance a smoothed-down edge on a piece of glass, so the edge is not sharp. Still, I suppose here they simply mean the entire side is bevelled, resulting in a "tapered" disc.
Anyway, is my above assumption correct? Also, my local model shop recommended "35 weight" silicone oil, which I bought. Do you think this was a good choice, and why/why not?
I did not realise the Hachette Partworks NMT was also called SSK Thunder Tiger... do you know why? And do you have any idea why Hachette waffle on about the supposedly "differing" hole diameters/three circles in the turnbuckles, when it is all untrue?
Thanks again!
regards,
Charles
Hi Dynamite25/Steven, and Chris/Adzam,
Thank you so much for your previous help with the Hachette Partworks Nitro Monster Truck I'm building. I've got another problem, this time it is with the insertion of the white nylon piston sleeve onto the suspension of the NMT. In the instructions, it says "Insert the nylon piston [sleeve] on the damper rod, taking care to position it so that the __bevelled side of the piston__ is outermost on the damper rod"...
Well, what does this mean? Outermost on the damper rod means facing AWAY from the axle/wheel (ie TOWARDS the oil reservoir), surely? If I roll the piston vertically on a table surface, it rolls to one side, proving one face of the piston is smaller in diameter than the other, so this must be what they mean by "bevelled side". In other words, I am assuming I should make sure the smaller diameter face of the piston faces towards the oil reservoir. Is this correct? I have no idea if/why this is important, but physics in NOT my strong suit!
The term "bevelled" is confusing to me, because it really usually means, surely, a bevelled _edge_, for instance a smoothed-down edge on a piece of glass, so the edge is not sharp. Still, I suppose here they simply mean the entire side is bevelled, resulting in a "tapered" disc.
Anyway, is my above assumption correct? Also, my local model shop recommended "35 weight" silicone oil, which I bought. Do you think this was a good choice, and why/why not?
I did not realise the Hachette Partworks NMT was also called SSK Thunder Tiger... do you know why? And do you have any idea why Hachette waffle on about the supposedly "differing" hole diameters/three circles in the turnbuckles, when it is all untrue?
Thanks again!
regards,
Charles
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