G
Mainly airbrush but the hairy stick is also used as well.
Hairy stick or airbrush witch one are you
- Thread starter peterairfix
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G
Right gents, I'm not going to lock the thread, yet, but I am going to ask that further posts relate to the subject matter only.
Sorry and ladies!
Sorry and ladies!
well Peter,i lay down all my base colors with a ,AB,even the tones of two to three,colors,
then come back in with the HS,
this is were i have found that you do need a little play with them,as for cheap,middle and costly,
and what suits the way you use a brush with thinned or not on it,
I have found that for me ,I need to use some think of quality,maybe up in the $ 20.00 per brush ,
or more,as it has much better,bristly ,that done leave alot of brush makes,and don,t do the coats to think,
so to sume it up a mix of both,
hope this is of some help.
then come back in with the HS,
this is were i have found that you do need a little play with them,as for cheap,middle and costly,
and what suits the way you use a brush with thinned or not on it,
I have found that for me ,I need to use some think of quality,maybe up in the $ 20.00 per brush ,
or more,as it has much better,bristly ,that done leave alot of brush makes,and don,t do the coats to think,
so to sume it up a mix of both,
hope this is of some help.
G
I think, as with any area of modelling, whether plastic, RC, railway model engineering etc...etc.. it is nothing more than horses for courses and there are no rules, whether self made or by others. Just a couple of examples worthy of note:
1) In my motorcycle modelling period I always brush painted the tank and bodywork with a new brush and a new tin of enamel, straight from the pot. I always found the finish to be far superior to airbrushing and thinning never seemed to cover properly.
2) You simply cannot get the soft finish that an exhaust stain creates quite so effectively with a brush as you can with an airbrush.
3) Rattle cans are the weapon of choice for most RC model RN vessels for sheer consistency or finish and overall cover.
Now despite there being those amongst us who would argue that each technique can be either matched or even improved upon, they nevertheless work for me. The same goes for the old enamel V acrylic argument, there are good reasons for using both in varying situations. I even use oil paints for weathering and kids powder paint as pigments so anything goes for me.
1) In my motorcycle modelling period I always brush painted the tank and bodywork with a new brush and a new tin of enamel, straight from the pot. I always found the finish to be far superior to airbrushing and thinning never seemed to cover properly.
2) You simply cannot get the soft finish that an exhaust stain creates quite so effectively with a brush as you can with an airbrush.
3) Rattle cans are the weapon of choice for most RC model RN vessels for sheer consistency or finish and overall cover.
Now despite there being those amongst us who would argue that each technique can be either matched or even improved upon, they nevertheless work for me. The same goes for the old enamel V acrylic argument, there are good reasons for using both in varying situations. I even use oil paints for weathering and kids powder paint as pigments so anything goes for me.
Thanks very much for your replies but first of all can i apologise for all the mess this has caused as i have been taken aback by this, and secondly can a gravity feed air brush be use with a can of air with the same success as with a compresser
Right i am off to beat my self with a stick
Right i am off to beat my self with a stick
G
Very hard question mate. For detail painting in cockpits and interiors, I would take to my ultra thin paintbrush for sure. On the other hand, I love using Airbrushes for the exterior and especially german schemes, as I am a huge fan of German Aircraft. I use a large range of paintbrushes, but most of them are mostly the small micro detail type.
For my airbrushes, I use an
-Iwata Hi Line HP-CH 0.35 and 0.2 needle
-Iwata Eclipse HP-CS 0.35 needle
-Iwata Neo (now sold) 0.35 needle
The iwata hi line is a bit of an overkill for modelling, but it is an exceptional airbrush, one step below the premium Iwata Custom Microns. It offers great control and detail capability.
These are all gravity feed airbrushes. I find they are easier to clean and has easier operation than siphon feed airbrushes.
John
For my airbrushes, I use an
-Iwata Hi Line HP-CH 0.35 and 0.2 needle
-Iwata Eclipse HP-CS 0.35 needle
-Iwata Neo (now sold) 0.35 needle
The iwata hi line is a bit of an overkill for modelling, but it is an exceptional airbrush, one step below the premium Iwata Custom Microns. It offers great control and detail capability.
These are all gravity feed airbrushes. I find they are easier to clean and has easier operation than siphon feed airbrushes.
John
Will it be a hairy stick?!!!\ said:
{bad term} thank God for entry codes and uber - supervised computer use{adult locks etc...} especially with grand kids about
........Jim
,
G
Peter if you use a can of compressed air, there are a few factors to consider in comparison with using a compressor\ said:
1) you can't adjust the airflow as well as you can using a compressor. Buying an in-line adjuster helps a lot.
2) the pressure from a can is not consistent - as it empties, the pressure goes down. This can be alleviated by placing the can in warm water.
3) the cost! Buy 4-5 cans and you've spent the cost of a brand new compressor!
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