discussion Help with Humbrol Acrylics

[Guest]

I am gradually changing over to acrylics which seem to be going ok except for the Humbrol 166 and 164 Light and dark greys. They seem to dry streaky and blotchy especially the dark grey. I have thinned with water and used a quarter inch (6mm) flat brush to try and get an even coat but even after three thin coats its still streaky and blotchy. Am I thinning it to much or not enough. It also seems to dry very dark. Photo is not very good as the changes don't seem to show up when taking photo. Any ideas/suggestions would be welcome.

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[Guest]

I had a similar problem when I switched and got paints that had been on the shelf so long they were Chinese! Humbrol seem to have brought manufacture back to the UK and these pots are much better.

What you have should be fixable though, stir, keep stirring and if your arm starts to ache, stir with the other one until that starts to ache and you might have stirred enough! A really thin layer or two over that and it should all sort itself out

 

[Guest]

I know this is slightly off topic, but I had the same attitude...well similar.

I wanted to use exclusively Humbrol acrylics. I found that some paints I had no choice but to use a different brand and/or couldnt find the exact match in humbrol using colour conversion charts.

However, I have found that the Model color and Model Air are better overall, so now Im converting from humbrol to MC/MA.

But obvioulsy its personal preference.

 

[rickoshea52]

I just bought some of these acrylics including the paint colour you are having trouble with so I'm keen to see what the solution is. I will be using them in an airbrush and with Humbrol acrylic thinner, I don't go with the water as a thinner medium as water purity varies from tap to tap. Why not try using ylic thinner instead of water?

 

[rickoshea52]

I know this is slightly off topic, but I had the same attitude...well similar.I wanted to use exclusively Humbrol acrylics. I found that some paints I had no choice but to use a different brand and/or couldnt find the exact match in humbrol using colour conversion charts.

However, I have found that the Model color and Model Air are better overall, so now Im converting from humbrol to MC/MA.

But obvioulsy its personal preference.

I have the opposite problem. I looked for certain paint shades in the MC/MA range converted from the Humbrol range but couldn't find suitable alternatives which is why I just went for the humbrol acrylics as per the paint instructions with the kit.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the info. These humbrol acrylics are different from what I have bought in the past. The have flip top lids with a little well in the lid for mixing/holding a little bit of paint simillar to the Revell acrylics pots. The ones I have bought in the past have been screw top and I have had no trouble with them. They are also fuller than the flip top ones which only seem to be half full of paint. I have got some acrylic thinner somewhere so will hunt it out and try that. i may try the Vallejo paints next as my local Boyes store is selling them at a discount of £1.79 per pot.

 

[Guest]

Ah... You mean like the one on the left here:

It's difficult to tell, but the pot on the left is completely dried out. I removed the plastic seal and it was in this condition. Most of my Humbrol Acrylics are screw caps like the one on the right, there's usually a bit of sediment at the bottom which is easy to stir back to goodness.

I would throw out or return if you can those pop cap ones.

 

[Alan 45]

That looks like it's not stirred enough , I use a lot of humbrol and revell paints and found they need thinning by at least 25% sometimes more and you do need to stir them quite a bit

 

[Guest]

I would put it down to thinning with water Barry. Water has a surface tension. Place a drop on a work top and it forms a beautiful round pattern rounded at the edges and thinning down when it hits the work top. No good for thinning paints as it is not a good mixer.

Place a drop of Vallejo thinner and it will go where you want it and flatten out to a fine edge. Much better to use the thinner of the paint manufacturer as they have the inherent properties of the paint itself.

Tried both Revell and Humbrol Acrylics and I have not been very impressed.

As mentioned above Vallejo is much better using Model Air for airbrush (also for intricate work where a thin coat is desired). Hand painting Model. The nice advantage with these paints is that they flatten out. If you place to much paint in an area it will flatten out with out causing curtains as the thinner does not have surface tension that water has.

Also tried recently Lifcolor and AK acrylics. The latter as Barry on here has mentioned are very nice indeed. Worth buying one of each and see which is best for you.

On equivalent colours. Sure that Revell and Humbrol dish out what ever is nearest. You have more chance with Vallejo equivalents and also Lifecolor. In Vallejo Model for instance you have about 13 greys to choose from.In Model Air about 15 or so. Vallejo actually publish a list of other paint manufacturers colours with their own equivalents. Some I expect are close but not exact but it would take a genius to spot the difference.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Laurie, got a link to Vallejo's conversion chart?

 

[Guest]

Laurie, got a link to Vallejo's conversion chart?

This is the Vallejo site Mike. It has many chapters here and worth looking at. Best paint site I have found it has everything.

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/

For downloads this is the one.

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/downloads. This gives a whole load of info. go for the one marked Equivalencias. Faqs is another one which is basically question and answer.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

thanks for all the input. I have now put so many coats on that most of the detail has disappeared. Also removing the masking tape has removed a load of paint despite leaving it for 48 hours before masking. I have now decided to remove all the paint and start again. Any info on removing acrylics would be good and also should I give it a coat of future on the acrylic before applying masking tape?

 

[Alan 45]

Best way I've found to remove paint is oven cleaner , put the build in a bag then spray a load over it and leave it for about five hours and then take it out wash it off and brush it with a soft brush and it comes off with ease

 

[Guest]

Best way I have found is IPA Isoproyl. It removes Acrlic at least water based and does not harm the plastic.

If you have a manufacturers thinner I have found this does the trick proving it has not really cured. Do not think you are airbrushing but if you do in future airbrush cleaner will remove even after curing.

PS do not use cellulose thinner but you may already know that.

I remove al dried paints in palletts by soaking in water just peels like an orange. I would try first perhaps that but would not soak the whole thing.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Just an added idea.

Wet and dry sand paper about 1200 or 1500.

You will get most off with this. Use lots of water never let the paper get dry. Keep rinsing all the paint loosened away. When you see the plastic your are there. You will not destroy the plastic as the paint is soft compartively.

Intricate pieces fold the paper to a small slot and beaver away. There will be very thin bits of paint left but do not worry just as close to the plastic as possible then stop.

On completion you will have a first class surface to receive further paint.

Go thin with the new paint film and if possible get the manufacturers thinner.

Laurie

 

[Snowman]

The Revell acrylics aren't half bad either, I tend use them along with the Tamiya acrylics.

 

[Guest]

Just to let you all know, The oven cleaner didn't work, even after leaving it 24 hours. I know it works on enamel as I have used it before. I managed however to get the dark grey off by using a worn green scourer from the washing up bowl but the light grey won't shift at all, so have rubbed it down and will try a new coat or two using the airbrush. The other option is to spray it Bronze all over and pretend its a casting.

 

[Guest]

I've had really good luck removing paint—even automotive primer—with a non-toxic product called Simple Green. Soak and scrub. Simple Green won't attack the plastic.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the heads up on the Simple Green, I think it's a USA product although I have found some on Amazon and Ebay over here in the UK but at £11 ($16) for a single squirty bottle It's a bit pricey. I have now tried with the airbrush, it being a nice day ( I have to airbrush outdoors) but even thinned with 60% thinners I could not get the stuff through the airbrush. I ran thinners, water and enamels through the airbrush and all worked fine but this Humbrol just would not work, so I have gone back to the brush and now its gone on with no problems at all. Oh I could swear!!!

 

[Alan 45]

That's strange I always use it and never had a problem, I use Mr muscle oven cleaner