discussion high gloss finish

[Guest]

i am getting the 1:12 ford mustang GT500 in a couple of weeks and would like to know how to get a super high gloss finish on the kit please ?

 

[Guest]

You could try the Tamiya spray can TS-13. Hope that helps

 

[Guest]

I've just used the Tamiya spray and micro mesh paper, 4000 got rid of the slight orange peel and working to 12000 was pretty shiny, a polish afterwards made it really shiny.


You will need to apply it right after the Tamiya base coats otherwise you will need to wait about a month for it to gas off before painting or it could craze. As for other base coats... Not sure but make sure fully cured I guess.

 

[Guest]

Hi, on my Shelby Cobra I used Nissan clearcoat which I had laying around after a little job on my full sized car.


Thread is here.


http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/experiment-with-nissan-clearcoat-now-coated-and-polished.26782/#post-202855


It turned out like this, I expect that any modern clearcoat would work, but don't get a two part spray can of the stuff as the can goes solid in just a few hours.


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[Guest]

thanks guys a big help and a great link bari

 

[Guest]

I used Pound shop rattle can primer then Alclad 2's Gloss black base, Candy base then Electric blue candy on this,


I had to spend quite some time prepping the body before I started painting and I sanded with wet and dry between each coat of primer and black base,


I spent 3 solid days on this body shell but I think it was worth it in the end.


Hope this helps,


Paul...


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[Guest]

Nearly completed my body.


http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/subaru-98-monte-carlo-beginners-recovery-attempt.29941/page-3


Too much zero clear on the decals in one go has textured them slightly but is only visible under a lot of scrutiny.


Nice and shiny that zero 1k clear. Wouldn't want the health risks if the 2k.

 

[Guest]

Have a look here: http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/completed-rolls-royce-1-16-phantom-continental-1934.28704/


I used Tamiya Synthetic lacquer. It comes in a rattle can spray and I found it can give a very high gloss, especially if you finish with a polish (a cream). The trick is to build up the paint with two light coats so that the base is almost obscured. Then (and this is the important part) apply a thick final coat to full wetness. That is, the surface of the paint should look very wet and all droplets joined together to make a glassy surface. Don't flood it too much or it will run, so practice is necessary and you can judge just how close you can get to avoiding runs.


If you don't get a glassy very wet finish before setting to dry the result will have an orange peel effect and I found that this was impossible to polish out. Using a set of very fine micromesh grits might help but that is difficult except on flat surfaces. If you look at the 4th image down you will see some orange peel effect on the right rear wing. I think it is important to avoid that because no car ever produced has other than a hard glassy shine. Tamiya synthetic lacquer produces a thick tough coat which can be lightly sanded more than the water-based acryllic gloss paints which are more delicate. Rattle cans are of course fierce compared to an airbrush so hold it about 1 1/2 feet away. Don't be tempted to use it in an airbrush. I did, and the paint and its cellulose thinner (its solvent) bunged up my nozzle. I cleaned it thoroughly including with a reamer but I had to get a new nozzle. This is a known danger (I found afterwards!)