discussion HMS King George V - 1/350 Tamiya

[Guest]

Looking good

 

[Guest]

Thanks for viewing Graham.

This weeks update more PE I'm afraid.

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The shipyard is closing for the festive season, so will post the next update during early January. So Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year everyone.

Derek

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[Guest]

Looking good

 

[Guest]

Thanks Dave for viewing. Weakened and did some work over the holiday break.

There was a poor joint between the Captains Bridge and the Admirals bridge so used some scrap Evergreen to correct.

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Remainder of time used to fit the many Portholes on the Hull; used the PE ones without the visors. Saw in some photos and read that the lower row of Portholes on the Hull were plated during the war, so used filler to represent this. Will fill in the upper Portholes with some Gloss Black Acrylic paint applied with a cocktail stick after all the painting is complete. Also made up some rectangular Portholes from Evergreen for the Stern, as seen in a photo.

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That's all for now. Derek

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[Guest]

Eww this looks like a recipe for insanity but looking fantastic!

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[Guest]

The port holes make a big difference

 

[Guest]

Thanks for viewing Lads.

Graham, Have a question. This is my first 1/350 for which I have bought a wooden deck. Did a dry fit yesterday, seemed reasonably good but I notice all the superstructure sits on top of the wood, is this normal? If so I am thinking of trimming it back so the wood butts up to the superstructure. Any views? Derek

 

[Guest]

Thanks for viewing Lads.Graham, Have a question. This is my first 1/350 for which I have bought a wooden deck. Did a dry fit yesterday, seemed reasonably good but I notice all the superstructure sits on top of the wood, is this normal? If so I am thinking of trimming it back so the wood butts up to the superstructure. Any views? Derek

Derek, on my models the superstructure does sit on the wood. I don't trim the wood, but that is because I haven't thought to do that. Btw your model is coming on nicely. The photo etch really makes a difference.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Graham, will have a think about it, tempted to trim the wood, but will do another dry fit to see how much work is involved. Derek

 

[Guest]

Derek just caught up with this build. You're PE work is amazing !

 

[Guest]

Might be worth having a look at some design pics or photos of the real thing to see how the superstructure sits on the deck, or 'in' it if you get what I mean

This photo may suggest there's a lip under the secondary turret but a flush fit on the superstructure...

Hope this helps...

Stuart

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[Guest]

Thanks for viewing Lads, and for the photo Stuart.

Did a trial fit of the wooden Deck, generally a good fit, what I didn't like was the fact that the wood went under the superstructure, which gave little contact for gluing, and gave an uneven joint due to some bulging.

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So I trimmed the wood around the superstructure so that I have plastic to plastic contact all round, this will also help as a future painting mask. Photos below show the wooden deck sections before and after trimming. Am keeping the cut-offs as they will be handy to test weathering techniques for the wooden deck if necessary.

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Have decided to make the lower part of the fore and aft superstructure, boat deck and 5.1/4" gun plinths all one piece. Enlarged the location holes for the plinths to make assembly easier. Added reinforcing on the underside to reduce deflection.

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Finished the handrails around the boat deck and plinths Port Side, still to repeat starboard side.

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Derek

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[Guest]

I think you've made the right choice, it will make it look tidier and as you say better gluing surface

Stuart

Ps your brass work is truly excellent, you have more patience than I!!

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[spanner570]

Very nice Derek.

Question please?

I have the same kit waiting on the chocks and I've been looking at your wooden decks. I have just had a dry run on my model with just the plastic deck and it fits flush with the top edge of the hull...Which means- I presume - the wood deck will sit proud of the hull top. How is this unsightly edge hidden? Unless I've got it totally wrong...as usual!

I'll be sticking with OOTB, but I'm just curious how this detail is hidden?

 

[Guest]

Thanks for you comments Stuart.

Well Ron young man, if you are going to buy handrails for your kit, the bottom rail or kicking flat will help disguise the wood edge, as it will be very close to the wood. Remember you have to remove the plastic backing sheet which helps reduce the overall thickness of the wooden deck, and if you still find it objectionable, you could always use a very fine sand paper and sand a gentle taper with the grain. I am a few weeks away from fitting the deck on my model, but will let you know after I decide. Must say I am inclined to leave as is at the moment. Have a look at these two Prontos publicity shots.

Remember also deck planks are fairly thick, supply vessels are typically 63mm and stop shot of the edge to form a waterway, so there should be a step of some kind. Hope this helps Derek

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[Guest]

Very nice Derek.Question please?

I have the same kit waiting on the chocks and I've been looking at your wooden decks. I have just had a dry run on my model with just the plastic deck and it fits flush with the top edge of the hull...Which means- I presume - the wood deck will sit proud of the hull top. How is this unsightly edge hidden? Unless I've got it totally wrong...as usual!

I'll be sticking with OOTB, but I'm just curious how this detail is hidden?

Ron

Ron, as Derk says the railing hide the slight lip the wooden deck gives. I used Hunter Wood wooden deck on the Hood, which is thinner than Pontos, but a lot trickier to use as it is very thin and tears easily, but doesn't leave a noticable lip.

 

[spanner570]

Thanks for the replies boys.

I see how the wooden deck works now, and doesn't that P.E. look great?

For what I'm planning, the main deck handrails will be missing - and a lot more! So I won't be needing them or the P.E.

I'll also stick with the plastic main deck. No offence, but to be honest, once painted, weathered and bleached, I prefer them to the aftermarket wooden ones.

 

[Guest]

Looking superb Dereck, when I used a wooden deck I found I had enough contact with the raised lip, but your I idea might be better looking.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Steve.

Hi Ron, to be honest, knowing what I know now, I think I would have painted the deck as well. The KGV and POW Tamiya Kits have a lot of moulded vents, winches etc. moulded on which is a pain in the neck for the wooden deck, plus the superstructure problem I have mentioned. I find the 1/350 a bit of a strain on the old eye balls, so I am only doing one more , the Dragon Scharnhorst plus the Golden Horseshoe, (pub quiz for some). These do not have all the Deck protrusions.

If I were continuing with 1/350 Ships I would do my homework to see how the deck was moulded, if it were like the KGV or POW I would opt for painted deck.

Ron, I would however recommend you seriously reconsider using the Handrail PE, as it is really well worth the effort, you can buy a generic handrail set, you don't have to go for the more expensive PE sets. Derek

http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TU06636

 

[spanner570]

O.K. Derek, I know when I'm beat. I've just ordered a set of eduard 1/350 Royal Navy deck rails from a punter on ebay for sensible money....I don't know what generic means, but these are just in strip form and measure well over 2mtrs. if laid end to end.

Re the wooden decks. How do you manage filling in all the tiny imperfections around the various protrusions / superstructure? That would see me off for sure!

Without looking on 'tinternet, the only 'Golden Horseshoe' I'm familiar with is the U. Boat ace Otto Kretchmer.

Cheers,

Ron.

P.S. Don't tell Dave (gern) or anyone else, that I've actually bought a bit of aftermarket stuff!