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HMS King George V - 1/350 Tamiya

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i look forward to your weekly updates derek.

how long has it taken you so far ?
 
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\ said:
i look forward to your weekly updates derek.how long has it taken you so far ?
Started on the 10 August 2014, don't keep a time sheet, but I guess I average 10 - 12 hrs/week very roughly.

By the way, would highly recommend this CA Glue applicator set, I found it excellent.

http://www.modeldesignconstruction.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/ModelDesignConstruction/_GT%2057%20/%2D/Mr%20Glue%20Applicator%20

Derek
 
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thanks i will watch with enthusiasm and plod along with the pow, the applicator tools are a good idea but for now i have made my own for now to keep costs down
 
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thanks i will watch with enthusiasm and plod along with the pow, the applicator tools are a good idea but for now i have made my own for now to keep costs down
Hope you will post some photos when you are ready. Derek
 
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hmmmm maybe i will i'll have to dig out the camera i might even start my own build log the only thing is i don't take criticism very well but i guess it all helps with the learning.
 
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\ said:
hmmmm maybe i will i'll have to dig out the camera i might even start my own build log the only thing is i don't take criticism very well but i guess it all helps with the learning.
Go for it, there are no rivet counters or nasties on this Forum:) Derek
 
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i have taken some pics of the work i have done so far on my prince of wales but it won't let me upload them for the people to see can anybody help please ?
 
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i have taken some pics of the work i have done so far on my prince of wales but it won't let me upload them for the people to see can anybody help please ?
They did upload last night, I saw them in my KGV thread and replied. Try opening your own 'Under Construction' thread, I know John is switching servers just now. Derek
 
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i can't see the pictures or any comments that you have made i will try my own build log now thanks for all the good advice
 
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Sprayed the hull with Lifecolor UA109 'Extra Dark Sea Grey', I will be using this as a Boot Line colour. Here you can see 10mm Tamiya masking tape used to mark the upper border of the boot line. In order to get a good crisp edge, I always use a cocktail stick sharpened to a chisel point as a burnishing tool. I only use finger pressure on the tape and the burnishing too at the edge of interest. Fortunately Tamiya have provided faint moulding lines on the hull to show the Boot Line.

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After doing some trials, I felt that when dry, my original colours of grey were too warm, so I switched to these two Lifecolors These photos shows the results of spraying the hull colour and removal of the Tape. Remember I am making a dio. so I am not interested in the colour of the lower hull, as it will be hidden in the finished project.

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Photos shows masking as before for the deck and super structure, I am using kitchen tissue to protect the hull, and the final colours. Unfortunately the photos are not a true representation of these colours.

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Photo shows the Funnel guards painted, again the colours are not true, it is more a sooty black. Here I used Lifecolor UA722 'Roof Dirt', it is a railway modellers colour really.

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Photos shows experiments with the wooden deck scraps mentioned earlier, I want to show the deck as if it were wet, so based on different tests, I am going to use the Doc O'Brien's 'Grungy Gray'. Best way to apply this is with a small make-up brush, kindly donated by my Wife, dip the tip into the very fine powder, gently tap the brush over the area so some spots fall of and wipe off the remainder on the brush onto some tissue, then use the make-up brush to work the powder into the wood, repeating until the desired effect is reached. You can darken individual planks with an HB pencil. You could also use Windsor & Newton Artist's Soft Pastels rubber onto fine sand paper to create a powder, but I prefer Doc O'Brien's. I am going for the very bottom left hand sample, and will add some darker planks with pencil.

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Finally I have varnished the Hull, deck and all fittings with Humbrol Acrylic Satin Varnish from the Aerosol can, photo posted earlier. This helps protect the paint, and is a good foundation for artists oil paint (not enamel paint) weathering.

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Derek

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Thread owner
Just a quick update, have fitted the MK1 wooden deck, after first weathering it, the superstructure is still loose. Fit was very good, following the mods described earlier. Derek
 
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A few close-ups of the Timber Deck, this is the MK1 make.

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This week has been taken up by hand painting all of the dark grey steel decks, Gun Barrels, and the 14" & 5.1/4" Turret Tops. For the Decks I used Lifecolor UA605. Also painted the Hulls of the Ships boats, the same colour as the KGV Hull. Painted the Captains and Admirals Hull, diluted the Blue and Green with light Grey to give it the 'distance' effect. Everything has been given two coats of Satin Varnish (Humbrol as before.) Also cemented the Captains Bridge to the Admirals Bridge, you can just see it in the last photo.

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Derek

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Thread owner
good to see you back derek this is amazing work i haven't done any work on my pow the last couple of days as the flagship of my fleet has now arrived and the building has begun
 
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The weathers been rather good the last few days so have been going for walks to blow the cobwebs away, so not so much to report this week.

A little early with the weekly report as it is a natural break, before the next phase. I am planning to rig the masts before I present the superstructure up to the deck, so have added all the guns which might be difficult to access once the rigging is on.

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I will now tackle some light weathering/rusting. For this I use artists oils, see last photo and Sansador thinner, Turps could be used, but I prefer the Sansador as it is very low odour, and its drying time is slightly longer than Turps. As I had used acrylic paints for the ship, the artists oil paints and thinner will not attack the acrylic paint.

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I still have to finally decide the rigging material I will use, but Superfine Tying Silk thread (Pearsaill's Gossamer) which fishermen use for fly fishing looks promising, I would guess it is about 0.15mm dia. Some people use EZ Line, but this deteriorates in sunlight, others use UNI-Caenis, but it is thinner than a human hair at 20 Denier, and I believe its thermal co-efficient is high enough for the thread to tension and break bits off the model, if the model is exposed to large room temperature variations. I'll let you know what I have chosen later. Derek

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Thread owner
looking good love the lifeboat detail and all the bits are amazing as you know mine is on hold for a while but i will get back to it when hmcs snowberry is finished or when something does my head in on her i will go back to my pow but for now the flower class is going well (which reminds me i need to put some more pics up of the work i have done on her so far every post you put up i will still read it as your work is fantastic and very inspirational
 
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