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How long between coats?

pjgtech

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Thread owner
Mostly using Tamiya acrylic paints, (brush painting).
How long should I wait between coats?
I'm usually thinning the paint a bit too if that matters.
Can I just apply another coat after its touch dry or should I wait longer for it to fully "harden"?
I also assume that several thin coats is better than one or a few thick coats.
Cheers
 
I get the feeling that a second brush coat too soon may take the first alway if you’re using Tamiya.
Don’t think I’ve ever brush painted with them 🤔

I would do a test on a piece of sprue and see how it goes💡
 
Tamiya is hard to brush paint. It is not a true acrylic and a second coat will eat into the first and drag it. You're right in that thin coats are best. Give it plenty of time to fully cure and do not over brush the paint. What you are thinning with will affect how subsequent coats go on and how the previous coats are affected.
Si's idea of a test is a good idea.
 
The guys are right. If the paint lifts or drags when you put the second coat on it needs longer to dry. Personally I’d go for overnight between coats for brush painting Tamiya. Water based acrylics, such as Vallejo, can be overpainted in minutes though.
 
Thread owner
What about those little tubs of airfix paint.
How long between coats for those?
and can they be thinned with water or only thinners?
Cheers (still learning)
 
Thread owner
Tamiya is hard to brush paint. It is not a true acrylic and a second coat will eat into the first and drag it. You're right in that thin coats are best. Give it plenty of time to fully cure and do not over brush the paint. What you are thinning with will affect how subsequent coats go on and how the previous coats are affected.
Si's idea of a test is a good idea.

Am thinning with Tamiya thinners.
Didn't realise Tamiya is hard to brush paint with, whats the best paint to use for brush painting?
Cheers
 
The little pots of Airfix paint - like those found in their starter kits - are true acrylics and can be thinned with water.
Tamiya paints (the X- and XF- range) are not true acrylics. They are a hybrid acrylic with both water based and lacquer based qualities. They will dilute with water although they then lose some quality in terms of stability and coverage. They will thin with Isopropyl alcohol, that's what the paint in the pot smells of. They will also thin with a lacquer thinner and then are a perfect airbrush paint. Using Tamiya thinner X20A is good, maintains the paint structure, doesn't smell like a lacquer and allows airbrush and brush painting.
One of the best paints to brush paint is Vallejo, a true water based paint so thins nicely with water.

I think what I've written is correct but there are many who understand this paint lark better than I do so bear that in mind :D
 
I’d agree with you Jim. I’ve used Tamiya and Vallejo paints since I started modelling and I’m sure as hell no expert, but they work for me this way too
 
Thread owner
Little update on this. Yes, when using Tamiya paints (brush painting), if you put a subsequent coat on, before the previous coat has fully dried, it will eat into the previous coat and "drag" it. Ask me how I know! 🤦‍♂️
After a couple of models, I've now found that about one hour between coats, (at normal sort of room temperatures) seems to be enough to allow the previous coat to dry enough to enable a further coat to be added without any significant issues. Obviously you could go longer.
But being an impatient kinda guy, I just wanna get on with it! 😎
I was advised that Tamiya is hard to paint with, but I've found several thin coats, eg: three or four, seems to give a good finish. Each subsequent coat going on smoother and the brush strokes slowly disappear, but the 3rd or 4th coat they are pretty much gone.
Just my take on it, cheers👍
 
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