discussion Humbrol Maskol question?

[takeslousyphotos]

Hi All,


I am looking at using Maskol on a build for something that, I`m thinking may be on there for a while to protect the parts while I do a three colour camo....... So it maybe a week or so...Is it ok to leave it on for that long?


The other thing I am wondering is should I maybe put a gloss coat on the parts before the Maskol goes on.... Is it easier to get off on gloss ? I can always dull coat them afterwards.


Thanks

 

[Guest]

Yep!


I never used the Humbrol one, sorry.


Anyway the Vallejo one is similar, and is what I use....


I can say there is no problem to leave it for a long period time, it works equal one hour later than somedays after


Personally I never added a varnish coat before...


Just be careful, and it hasn't to be any problem!


My advice, and the secret, is paint a resistant base coat!!! Use a good primer and add some drops of varnish (mix). Once dry you should have a good base to work hard

 

[Guest]

resistant base coat- I have a feeling the maskol only likes specific paints, check the label I'm sure it says what kinds not to put it on...

 

[Guest]

Generally speaking, there's no time limit to using Maskol. It won't degrade with time or be any harder to remove after a week.


One tip though, put a piece of Tamiya masking tape on the parts before applying the Maskol - this will make a tab to allow you to remove it much more easily.

 

[Guest]

I was reading somewhere recently that Maskol doesn't like anything with ammonia in it - including Humbrol Clear! I've not used it so can't confirm but maybe someone else can? (Klear the floor polish is apparently OK as the later formulations didn't include ammonia. Again, just hearsay.)

 

[Guest]

Providing the base coat is properly cured, there's no chance of an adverse reaction. I've used Maskol over all kinds of paints & finishes.


The underlying reason for so many horror stories is people's impatience - touch dry paint or gloss/matt finishes doesn't mean it's cured.


I blame the rise in popularity of acrylic paint. When everyone used enamels, we all knew to leave the model for 48 hours before mucking around with it!

 

[takeslousyphotos]

Thanks guys for your advice on this............ I'll be using it on some side marker lights. They are very small, something around 3-4mm. The maskol will be going over Tamiya "Clear Blue" and "Clear Red" (which in turn will be over a silver base) ........ The other area I want to use it will go over Valejo Black & Brown..... I don't think either have Amonia in ????..........and probably way too tiny for a bit of masking tape to be involved Patrick. But that is a good idea for the future.

 

[takeslousyphotos]

Providing the base coat is properly cured, there's no chance of an adverse reaction. I've used Maskol over all kinds of paints & finishes.
The underlying reason for so many horror stories is people's impatience - touch dry paint or gloss/matt finishes doesn't mean it's cured.


I blame the rise in popularity of acrylic paint. When everyone used enamels, we all knew to leave the model for 48 hours before mucking around with it!

.......... Patience is one of my very few virtues Patrick.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, love the stuff, seems to be fine even after a couple of months! What I'd love, and pay muchly for, is a reliable and save solvent for it, so I could use decent quality brushes with it. I'd be able to do all sorts of magic with it if I wasn't restricted to using a cocktail stick to apply it!!

 

[Guest]

Not had any problems with Maskol on water based acrylic paint. Comes away on matt with out leaving a mark. .


For me I only use maskol in difficult places where masking with Tamiya or Lining tape will not go. Find it difficult to apply with accuracy and once applied difficult to add a bit to make up a minor gap.


I use Masquepen which has a fine hollow needle which gives more accuracy than a brush.


Laurie


View attachment 118520


View attachment 231542

 

[Guest]

Not had any problems with Maskol on water based acrylic paint. Comes away on matt with out leaving a mark. .
For me I only use maskol in difficult places where masking with Tamiya or Lining tape will not go. Find it difficult to apply with accuracy and once applied difficult to add a bit to make up a minor gap.


I use Masquepen which has a fine hollow needle which gives more accuracy than a brush.


Laurie


View attachment 130131

Is that another latex/ammonia based product Laurie?

 

[Guest]

...and you'll remember these too Laurie?


View attachment 118521



Id forgotten these were good with masking fluid too!

View attachment 231543

 

[Guest]

Is that another latex/ammonia based product Laurie?

Well John as highly un qualified chemist with many degrees to prove it tis my expert opinion that it is the same as the others green and smells of ammonia.

...and you'll remember these too Laurie?
View attachment 130132 Id forgotten these were good with masking fluid too!

Forgotten John I detested the things. They either clogged of let out a big blob, if you overfilled them, on beautiful hand made Watman Paper.


But a good idea for Masking Liquid. I would say that the Masqueol keeps all the liquid in the bottle until demanded.


I had a set of those pens. Were they called draughtsmans ink lining pens ? Something like that.


Laurie

 

[rickoshea52]

...and you'll remember these too Laurie?
View attachment 130132


Id forgotten these were good with masking fluid too!

Sometimes called a bow pen and used by railway modellers for painting lines on carriages. I used one in a watercolour painting lesson using masking fluid to draw a fence wire before doing the painting bit, when your watercolours are dry gently rub off the masking to reveal the white underneath, this could easily be adapted for modelling.

 

[rickoshea52]

Yeah, love the stuff, seems to be fine even after a couple of months! What I'd love, and pay muchly for, is a reliable and save solvent for it, so I could use decent quality brushes with it. I'd be able to do all sorts of magic with it if I wasn't restricted to using a cocktail stick to apply it!!

I use a cheap brush dipped in water first and regularly rinse it in water during maskol application, its not perfect and has limitations but it works.

 

[Guest]

Well John as highly un qualified chemist with many degrees to prove it tis my expert opinion that it is the same as the others green and smells of ammonia.
Forgotten John I detested the things. They either clogged of let out a big blob, if you overfilled them, on beautiful hand made Watman Paper.


But a good idea for Masking Liquid. I would say that the Masqueol keeps all the liquid in the bottle until demanded.


I had a set of those pens. Were they called draughtsmans ink lining pens ? Something like that.


Laurie

Ha Ha! I got used to them having put in a lot of hours doing Display body type (way before the days of PCs, we had to draw big letters up by hand, and the only way you could get proper sharp edhes and corners was with one of these bad-boys!). Fantastic for painting perfect circles and rings too. I've always known them as Ruling Pens, and a good one behaved much better than a crap one.

 

[Guest]

I use a cheap brush dipped in water first and regularly rinse it in water during maskol application, its not perfect and has limitations but it works.

I'll give that a try, ta!

 

[takeslousyphotos]

Yeah, love the stuff, seems to be fine even after a couple of months! What I'd love, and pay muchly for, is a reliable and save solvent for it, so I could use decent quality brushes with it. I'd be able to do all sorts of magic with it if I wasn't restricted to using a cocktail stick to apply it!!

...... I thnik I'll either break out a couple of old brushes on this or mabe look toward the cocktail stick....... They are tiny lights and I think they'll be easier painted and masked rather than detail them after fitting aand painting the Camo.

 

[takeslousyphotos]

I use a cheap brush dipped in water first and regularly rinse it in water during maskol application, its not perfect and has limitations but it works.

I reckon a bit of experimenting is called for Rick....... Before i use it in anger .

 

[Guest]

...... I thnik I'll either break out a couple of old brushes on this or mabe look toward the cocktail stick....... They are tiny lights and I think they'll be easier painted and masked rather than detail them after fitting aand painting the Camo.

Yeah, for masking off holes to keep them clean, or lights etc the stuff is genius, and once I get my ruling pen out, I may well try it for camo on this Spitfire I'm cobbling together!