discussion Humbrol "matt" cote

[BBdave]

I am currently building a Sherman and thought I would do the proper thing for the decals so a coat of gloss decal then a coat of matt, well here's where I'm at the decals still silvered and the matt cote is a very shiney satin! so I'm not to chuffed. It is brand new stuff bought only a week ago. How do I get the thing matt again?.

I think next time I'll leave the gloss and matt and just decal straight onto the paint.

Dave

 

[Alan 45]

Did you use micro sol ?

If I remember this is Italieri , I always have a problem with decals on Italieri kits and you done the right thing , it's not you it's the decals , if you've given it a matt coat over the decals I think you've got problems , if not then they can be rescued to a degree,

Pierce the decals with a craft knife or needle , add your decal solution to the decal , micro sol is a good one , then leave over night , the decal will wrinckle but this is normal and it will get rid of most of the silver if not all

I hope this helps

 

[PaulTRose]

i always use humbrol matt acrylic varnish in a rattlecan

what did you use for the gloss coat?

 

[BBdave]

I used humbrol gloss. i have some Matt acrylic varnish which i use on fishing floats so may try that

Dave

 

[john i am]

Hi Dave I'm doing a spitfire at the moment and applied decals over humbrol clear coat gloss . On applying decals I dabbed with future floor polish first and positioned decal over the top with no pressure or dabbing and the future sucked the decals to the moulding as it was drying. I have to say this method worked very well for me.although this might be a bit late in the day for your Sherman I hope you can recover it using Alan's method.i won't take credit for doing the decals this way as it was Mike (The Migrant) who posted this idea in another thread but I highly recommend it and you should give it a try next time round I think you will be pleased with the results cheers John

 

[BBdave]

Cheers I always used to put water on the model float the decal and use the edge of a tissue to suck the water from under it which pulled it to the model my dad taught me this method.

My main concern is the satin finish on the model as anything else can be covered with weathering.

Dave

 

[Alan 45]

Dave revell clear matt is good if you do thin coats I use it all the time and have never had any problems with it so you can just go over the humbrol and it will come out matt

 

[Guest]

I've had great success with Humbrol matt cote Dave, and the most important thing is to mix it thoroughly. When you think it's mixed enough, do it some more!

The reason is that there are tiny pieces of silica in the mixture & these make it matt. If they're not mixed enough, all you're getting is a thin mix.

To make it easier, check out my thread in Tutorials where I made a paint mixer from a Poundshop nasal hair trimmer!

Cheers

Patrick

 

[BBdave]

Thanks for all the advice i think with washes watering etc. I'll get there, it's just new to me so a learning curve.

Dave

 

[flyjoe180]

What Patrick said, mix the stuff until your arm hurts and then mix it some more. It airbrushes or brushes on nicely otherwise and dries flat as expected. I changed to using Humbrol Matt Cote recently and have had nothing but success with it. Some of my recent builds have been Italeri and have had no problems with their decals. I used Humbrol Decalfix with them and they settle down nicely. The same goes for the Gloss Cote, mix it very well. The Humbrol varnish in a big bottle I have not used yet.

 

[flyjoe180]

Oh, and HUmbrol also recommend two or more coats of their Matt cote to achieve a flat finish. One coat I find leaves a satin finish, two I found makes it look dull enough, and three coats makes it extremely (and unrealistically in many cases) matt.

 

[BBdave]

Cheers i did a second coat before work this morning I'll see what it looks like when i get home. i was looking to do some heavy mud or snow on it anyway so that will cover any indiscretion.

Dave

 

[rickoshea52]

I use Railmatch enamel varnishes or Vallejo acrylics depending on the paint I am using.

 

[Guest]

Did you use micro sol ?If I remember this is Italieri , I always have a problem with decals on Italieri kits and you done the right thing , it's not you it's the decals , if you've given it a matt coat over the decals I think you've got problems , if not then they can be rescued to a degree,

Pierce the decals with a craft knife or needle , add your decal solution to the decal , micro sol is a good one , then leave over night , the decal will wrinckle but this is normal and it will get rid of most of the silver if not all

I hope this helps

I had trouble with silvering on my Revell Lancaster, despite giving a good coat of gloss varnish (Vallejo, I think) and using Microsol and -Set. I had to use the pin pricking technique but it still left some. It was my first ever decalling effort, though.

 

[Alan 45]

Yeah mine has left some silvering even after about four attempts , really strange thing is it only happens to me with Italieri decals

 

[Guest]

Most important Dave is the first step to get a smooth top coat. Do that and you are half way there or even more. I wet and dry (on Vallejo Acrylic not a clue on enamel) on every coat. including if necessary a very fine gauge on the top coat.

The slivering is where you have mountains and valleys in the paint surface. In the valleys the decal does not touch the bottom of the valley. Varnish helps to smooth this over but the success in percentage terms is the smoothness of the basic paint coat.

I use water only. Gauge the result from this Wessex the decals on this are the most difficult I have come across. The decals were not good either. But it does take patience and persistence.

Also add that there are very deep panel lines on the Wessex Revell, especially the numerals on the nose, and the decals have sunk right to the bottom of these. The black decal is one piece and meanders in every direction possible. The only bother I had were the roundels and I did, reluctantly, use a micro something and pin pricks. This I put down to a poor smooth surface as this should have been a doddle considering they are virtually flat on a pane less surface. I put this down to the painter and decorator who has been warned. The only sealing is one coat of Vallejo matt varnish. And the result is no silvering at all.

Laurie

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[Ian M]

Humbrol matt coat really needs to be stired until your arms fall off. do that and its great. dont do that and its a good gloss coat!

 

[BBdave]

Cheers guys the second coat was more matt and weathering has cured shiney bits

Dave