discussion Introductory airbrushing

[Guest]

Fab model Steve - something to aspire to! Yes I have read about Klear in variou smodelling magazines - where do we get it from please? I've never seen in in Tesco although I have not been looking for it.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[AlanG]

Aidan... i got mine in Asdas. Can also be found on amazon etc etc

SC Johnson

It's been rebranded by the looks of it. So you might be able to find it under it's new look

 

[Guest]

Thanks I'll try Asda!

 

[Guest]

Thats cheating! You added a bit after I had replied!! LoLThe one I have is the first one (I'm affraid), I am assuming that you want to get hold of the one you mention here...

Ian M

I was mainly wondering how good it was and if it goes into any specific detail over and above the first one, have had it in the amazon want list for a while but keep hanging back in case its just much of the same, I guess I'l eventually fold and get it.

Steve, a quick note re the Klear, sadly the good ol stuff in the bottle you show is not readily available any longer, the rebranded stuff is in the white bottle but it's not quite the same, it's just as thin but milky white though it does still dry clear, i've heard from someone, (Graham?), that if alowed to pool it can dry with a milky glaze, i've got a 3/4 bottle of the old stuff left and bought a new one, have been meaning to try a canop dipped in it to see what happens and also to see if it still dissolves in itself, I know theres a very similar looking stuff in a blue bottle which covers like Klear but doesn't dissolve in itself which is a potential nuisance if you do get a run or pooling.

Re spraying Klear, be careful, it's very very thin and lays down wet and floods quickly.

 

[stona]

Stocks of the old Klear are getting thin on the ground. You are most likely to find some in a local hardware store though I found some recently in a town called Thame,near Oxford, in a Robert Dyas shop.

One of the denizens of Britmodeller tried the new stuff and gave it a thumbs up.

This product has been recommended to me as a good substitute by someone who should know.

Quick Shine® Floor Finish - Lakeland, the home of creative kitchenware

I haven't tried it myself.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Thanks for your suggestion - managed to find soem on Amazon - £10 - a lot? Looking foraward to trying it.

 

[stona]

It may seem a lot but compared to the price of model varnishes it's a bargain. A bottle will last a very long time. You don't have to spray Klear onto your model,I don't. I apply it with a 1/2" wide soft brush. I clean it with water.

Same rules as spraying, a little goes a long way so watch out for pooling,sometimes on the surface opposite or under the one you are coating.

It dries quickly but you need to leave it several hours before re-coating as it removes itself.

Leave it at least 12 hours before applying any weathering washes or similar.

I know there are plenty of threads (somewhere) but if you've got any queries there are many of us here who are regular users!

Good luck.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Thanks Steve - the thought of brushing makes me nervous as I have a fear of brush marks but I'll give it a go on a practice piece.

 

[AlanG]

No fear of brush marks with Klear. It's self settling

 

[Guest]

Hello again

I'ver taken much advice from you guys about painting etc and have just painted one half of one side of my Samba bus. I primed as suggested by Fenlander and then masked half of the work to accomodate the white paint (the other half will be painted red). It struck me though that before I mask the white paint so that I can paint the red with the airbrush, it might be wise to first varnish the white with a couple of coats of Klear (whic hsould arrive any day) so that the masking has less chance of damaging the painted surface. Do you guys foresee any problems with this please? Also, supposing I accidently spray or brush Klear over my primed surface - would I be able to spray acrylic paint over that without any problems?

Thanks all!

Aidan

 

[AlanG]

Yes you can use acrylics over klear. Just make sure it has dried properly before doing so

 

[stona]

As Allyne has said. I forgot to spray the walkway lines on my Spitfire so they will be going on over the Klear. There should be a prize for anyone who can get those long decals on straight and in one piece!

I don't know the Revell Aqua paints but I don't protect my acrylics before masking. I do use a low tack masking tape (Tamiya).

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Maybe there is something wrong with my spraying - I find Tamya tape to be tacky enough to remove my primer - I have to remove the tackiness first but still sometimes it lifts paint. Having achieved a really good finish with the Acrylic paint I'm not wanting to take any risks- covering with Klear sounded a good idea.

 

[Guest]

I got mine in wilkinsons

 

[Guest]

Hi Aiden , you say the tamiya tape is lifting your primer strange as this tape is made for us lot , do you wash your kit first ie- all the plastic stuff , warm soppy water and a soft toothbrush works a treat gets any oils and stuff that can be left on the plastic then leave to air dry , once primed no matter what paints you use and given time to dry 24-48 hrs is good you should be able to mask fine without any fear

At the moment I`m into my race cars and bikes and for clear gloss coats I`m finding tamiya`s X22 clear is working very good for me at the moment ( 40/60 with tamiya tinners ) , tried the vallejo gloss varnish but not for me also the Zero cear coat is good but is hard to use , klear is great stuff but your never gonna get a high deep gloss finnish with it , as for the humbrol spray cans I`ve always had grief with yellowing

hope this helps

Richy

 

[stona]

Aiden I'm sure it's not your spraying. I don't know which primer you are using but I use Halfords grey plastic primer. Just mist it on,you must be careful not to overdo it. This stuff seems to react with the plastic,in a good way, and is virtually impossible to remove. I removed a botched coat of Xtracrylix paint from a model using all sorts of drastic procedures and the primer was still there as good as new. That model ,a Sea Fury, is in my gallery and I don't think anyone would know what it has been through,if I hadn't just told you all lol.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Hi Richy - thanks for your reply - I claen the plastic with Isopropol alchohol - is soap and water better then?

I' surprised to hear you say i won't get a high deep gloss with clear - magazines and people in this forum rave about it - I guess experimentation will tell.

Aidan

 

[Guest]

Hi Stona - thanks for replying

I don't use a primer as such, but just matt grey (usually) acrylic paint on the advice of people in this forum - I have wondered why people use paint rather than primer - I thought there would be difference between primer and paint but confess to not knowing what that difference is.

regards

Aidan

 

[stona]

Isopropyl alcohol should clean your model of the mold release agents with no problem. I've used methylated spirit on some models that have been reluctant to clean up,it's much the same thing (give or take the odd carbon atom).

Primers vary,some like the Halfords one I use attach themselves very well to the plastic and leave a good base for later coats. Some people use other acrylic primers,it's really a case of finding what works for you.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Hello Gents

Re the above texts I recieved my Klear and have used it on one wing of a painted Ford Sedan model. I have to say that I'm a little disappointed. Yes it's glossier but it's not brilliant. I've used one coat. Do you guys who use Klear recommend building up the caots - will that provide more gloss please?

Thanks

Aidan