discussion Iwata neo spares

[Guest]

Does any one know if smaller needles and nozzles can be bought for the Iwata neo airbrush?

scott

 

[Guest]

Hi Scott

http://www.airbrush-iwata.com/objects/altre/NEO_TRIGGER_ITEM_CODES.pdf

According to this they do .35 and .5 needle nozzle sets.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Cheers Laurie a little bird has told me my daughter is getting her ole da one for Christmas, and it comes with the .35 needle, just wondering if they did a smaller one, seems they don't.

scott

 

[stona]

Hi Scott, I'm just wondering why you would need a smaller nozzle. 0.35 mm works well with most model paints and you will be able to spray a pencil thin line with it too. Most of my spraying is done with a 0.35mm nozzle on an Eclipse CS.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Hi Scott, I'm just wondering why you would need a smaller nozzle. 0.35 mm works well with most model paints and you will be able to spray a pencil thin line with it too. Most of my spraying is done with a 0.35mm nozzle on an Eclipse CS.Cheers

Steve

Hi Steve the brush iam using at the moment has a 0.10 or a 0.15 something like that unfortunately the brush is on its way to the pearly gates in the sky, I find I get a lot of control using these fine needles and hoped that the neo would have them but presently it doesn't so when father Christmas gives it to me I will need to practise.

scott

 

[stona]

Wow, those are really fine, designed for inks and similar media.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

That is interesting. Recently I have been using an Iwata with a .2 needle/nozzle for weathering work. I also by accident used a .35 brush and could not understand why I was not producing the goods.

Changed to the .2 and it was control back again. Think it must be the smaller amount of paint being released which gives the control. Also found that a lower PSI could be achieved again lowering the amount of paint being released.

Be interested to find others and their experience with the smaller needle/nozzle experience.

May say that lower PSI and smaller needles do bring, at least in my case, blockages from time to time. But that is the price you pay for what you get. Found though that the blockages are relatively easy to clear with drawing the needle to clean and squirting through with out the needle in place.

This is all using acrylics Vallejo and Lifecolor.

Laurie

 

[stona]

Why can't a pencil line or camouflage demarcation be made with a 0.35 rather than 0.2 nozzle? The difference is only 0.15 mm. It certainly makes a difference with some model paints whose pigments might not be as fine as others.

The amount of paint introduced to the air stream is surely controlled by the action of the airbrush, how much you pull back that trigger, not the size of the nozzle.

The regulator controls the air pressure, you control the paint flow.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Why can't a pencil line or camouflage demarcation be made with a 0.35 rather than 0.2 nozzle? The difference is only 0.15 mm. It certainly makes a difference with some model paints whose pigments might not be as fine as others.The amount of paint introduced to the air stream is surely controlled by the action of the airbrush, how much you pull back that trigger, not the size of the nozzle.

The regulator controls the air pressure, you control the paint flow.

Cheers

Steve

Not sure Steve but with my set up with the paint I use there is a good difference. On the Merlin Helicopter I have just finished I could not get the result as I have mentioned with a .35needle. This may of course be my inexperience.

There must be a difference, I would have thought, in the spray circumference when you are near to touching the surface to be sprayed. To exaggerate a .5 spray circumference compared to a .15 must be very large and the paint coming from each must be widely different.

Plus I would have thought as with a smaller needle size the amount of paint being thrown out is much smaller than a .35 then it is easier to control the amount of paint being expressed with a smaller needle than a larger one. IE you have a larger range to work with when pulling the trigger back. I do know that it takes a heck of a lot longer to push through airbrush cleaner through a .2 than a .35.

Laurie

 

[stona]

With the needle fully withdraw, that is maximum paint flow, the nozzle diameter will become the limiting factor. Otherwise the needle sets the flow rate.

I can easily spray a line 1mm wide with a 0.35mm set up and rarely need anything finer than that for model painting.

There's no right or wrong here, everyone finds what works best for them

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

I'm getting a neo airbrush. I never got on with my badger 150 so am looking forward to a gravity fed brush. I'm a little concerned that this thread seems to think that the neo is no good for detail or weathering work. What are people's thoughts on the Neo ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[stona]

You should be able to detail even small scale models with a 0.35 needle/nozzle. I don't use a Neo myself but its big brother with the same nozzle size.

1/72 scale aeroplanes as examples.

Fw 190 sprayed entirely free hand:



This one was masked:



Weathered Lancaster:



Another 1/72nd diorama. Fw 190 and one winged Bf 109 freehand. The He 177 and Me 262 (just peaking in front of the Heinkel's fin) were masked.



Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Wow. Cheers Steve. That's awesome. I hope my finished results are as good as that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[stona]

Here's more lines sprayed with a 0.3mm or 0.35mm nozzle. I don't remember which brush I used. The model is a 1/32 scale Natter, which was a very small aircraft.



You can spray fine detail with a nozzle of this size and you are much less likely to have to keep unblocking the nozzle, even with acrylic paints.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

With the needle fully withdraw, that is maximum paint flow, the nozzle diameter will become the limiting factor. Otherwise the needle sets the flow rate.I can easily spray a line 1mm wide with a 0.35mm set up and rarely need anything finer than that for model painting.

There's no right or wrong here, everyone finds what works best for them

Cheers

Steve

Actually Steve it is not the fine nest of the line which I was trying to point out. Probably haphazardly.

It is the fact that there is more control over a brush with a smaller needle/nozzle. a .35 passes 3 times approx the paint that a .2 will. So it seemed to me by logic that you would have much better control over the flow of paint for weathering. That is the trigger when pulled back equal will release less paint than a .35. I think that is correct. Real experience certainly seemed to support that.

Also a .2 compared to a .35 has a smaller spray area according to Iwata for the same distance from the subject.

On this matter Iwata now market a needle cap to assist when airbrushing close to the subject. This stop spots (most) when airbrushing more or less touching the subject.

Laurie

 

[stona]

No matter what the needle and nozzle size you should be able to introduce from zero to one hundred per cent of the maximum flow by controlling the amount with the trigger. I don't see what is confusing about this

Of course a larger diameter will pass more paint at maximum flow, with the needle fully retracted, but that's not the point.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

I just can't wait to try the brush out I just looks cool.

scott

 

[Guest]

No matter what the needle and nozzle size you should be able to introduce from zero to one hundred per cent of the maximum flow by controlling the amount with the trigger. I don't see what is confusing about this Of course a larger diameter will pass more paint at maximum flow, with the needle fully retracted, but that's not the point. Cheers Steve

Completely agree Steve.

But ! The amount of paint being released for the full range of a trigger releases with a .35 needle near 3 times that of a .2 needle. This is true for half the trigger range or what ever amount the trigger is pulled back.

My point was that a .2 needle releases two thirds less paint than a .35 what ever the trigger position. Therefore you must have far better control over the amount of paint released one to the other over the trigger range..

Actually in reality this is probably closer than those amounts quoted. But with an Iwata HPBS (.35) compared with an Iwata HPBH (.22) it takes 16 secs to clear a cup of airbrush cleaner compared to 28 secs full flow.

Also think that with a very much less release of paint from a .2 that this will enable much less PSI to be achieved. With my relatively short experience with the .2 I have been down to 8PSI. I could not achieve that with a .35. But then that may be my inexperience. As mentioned earlier I was not getting by a long way the control on the .35 to the .2 with close up detail work.

Be pleased and interested to get others experience here.

Laurie

 

[flyjoe180]

Well for what it is worth I use a Tamiya basic airbrush with a 0.3mm nozzle airbrush and it can do lines as thin as Steve mentions as well as broad passes with the trigger limit set full back (Tamiya have a slide which limits the needle movement on top of the airbrush). Have not had any issues with spraying thin lines, unless I get the paint consistency wrong (Humbrol, White Ensign and Xtracolour enamels), but that is a user issue and not the fault of the airbrush. I can't adjust the air pressure on the compressor, just the needle aperture.