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Low odour glue.

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Due to a Chest Illness im looking for a "Low Odour" Glue, not Superglue suitable for use on plastic models. Have tried local Model Shops for advice & might as well have asked the wall.
 
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Hi Jono

Not sure if you mean that you don't want CA type glues, or that you don't want Superglue

If the latter, have a look at this: http://www.filla-glu.com/page_1978698.html

Best wishes
 
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That looks interesting for windows & canopies Aidan. How about you getting some & testing it. ;)

Laurie
 
I think it will be hard to find an effective glue for plastic that does not have fumes. Simple speak plastic glues, dont stick plastic together it melts the parts together, with out solvents that will be all but impossible.

My advice, don's sit directly over the glue. Replace the lid. Rig up some kind of ventilation. A cooker hood type thing to suck the fumes away.

The thin, liquid types, tend to smell less than the thicker ones and the smell (fumes) are gone more quickly, if that helps.

Ian M
 
\ said:
That looks interesting for windows & canopies Aidan. How about you getting some & testing it. ;) Laurie
I will send you some with your next order, I've had it a while and it might have dried up, they sent me samples when they first started asking if I wanted to stock it
 
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Your wish is my command Laurie! LQTM
Well now Aidan that is an invitation for the future !

Yes I agree with Ian that the thin glues are not so potent partly I suppose as they go off so quickly. Got Tamiya Extra Thin & Mr Cement S. My Cement S is the best smell wise. The other one smells of pear drops. Did have the Flexi File Plasti Weld & from memory there did not seem to be much "ponk" at all. Not quite as good for me as the other two but it is marginal & still does the trick. All of these John stocks in the shop.

Another thought which Ian has touched on & woken up a few grey cells. I have a little spray booth which has a fan at the back obviously to get rid of paint fumes. This works a treat & I suspect this may be your answer Jono.

Another may be a face mask but the best ones have filters which are very efficent but the masks tend to be a bit bulky. Alternative is B & Q simple face mask which I have used.

Perhaps a combination of all spoken about here may be the answer.

Grey cells have now gone back into recession.

Laurie
 
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\ said:
I will send you some with your next order, I've had it a while and it might have dried up, they sent me samples when they first started asking if I wanted to stock it
There you are Aidan what a good turn I have done for you this day.

Laurie
 
I read that wrong, I thought you wanted some for testing, I don't mind who has it, I will check it make sure it's ok, I don't know how long it lasts
 
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Yes John Aidan agreed to test. If he does not want to I certainly will.

Laurie
 
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\ said:
Hi JonoNot sure if you mean that you don't want CA type glues, or that you don't want Superglue

If the latter, have a look at this: http://www.filla-glu.com/page_1978698.html

Best wishes
Hi Aiden,

I im building a 1/6th Motorcycle & with fingers not as nimble as they used to be with small parts

I would end up gluing my fingers together more than the model parts, also you don't get much working time with superglue...

I have used super glue on a larger scale model several years ago & found the fumes less than on the

Poly Cement I have at the moment..

Regards Jono.
 
Thread owner
\ said:
I think it will be hard to find an effective glue for plastic that does not have fumes. Simple speak plastic glues, dont stick plastic together it melts the parts together, with out solvents that will be all but impossible.My advice, don's sit directly over the glue. Replace the lid. Rig up some kind of ventilation. A cooker hood type thing to suck the fumes away.

The thin, liquid types, tend to smell less than the thicker ones and the smell (fumes) are gone more quickly, if that helps.

Ian M
Thanks for your comments Ian, at the moment im using as much ventilation as possible ...working next to an open Patio door & a desk fan on to help clear most of the fumes. Which is ok as long as it,s not raining lol... also only gluing in short spells to lessen any build up of fumes.... Jono.
 
Thread owner
\ said:
Well now Aidan that is an invitation for the future !Yes I agree with Ian that the thin glues are not so potent partly I suppose as they go off so quickly. Got Tamiya Extra Thin & Mr Cement S. My Cement S is the best smell wise. The other one smells of pear drops. Did have the Flexi File Plasti Weld & from memory there did not seem to be much "ponk" at all. Not quite as good for me as the other two but it is marginal & still does the trick. All of these John stocks in the shop.

Another thought which Ian has touched on & woken up a few grey cells. I have a little spray booth which has a fan at the back obviously to get rid of paint fumes. This works a treat & I suspect this may be your answer Jono.

Another may be a face mask but the best ones have filters which are very efficent but the masks tend to be a bit bulky. Alternative is B & Q simple face mask which I have used.

Perhaps a combination of all spoken about here may be the answer.

Grey cells have now gone back into recession.

Laurie
Laurie, it is not so much about what kind of smell the glue gives off but the strength of the fumes being breathed in as I have a Chest / Breathing Problem. Also normal face masks are usually for Dust particles not fumes, for fumes only, a mask with carbon cartridge filters the type worn by sas/police when using tear gas LOL.. a bit expensive for a small model...

Tanks for your thoughts though on this matter.... Regards Jono.
 
You can often find a mouth/nose mask with carbon filters at a sensible price in good model shops and DIY centres.

I have one I use (sometimes ha hem) when I spray.

Ian M
 
Thread owner
Had a look at this one Jono. Not sure it will do what you want it to. Seems a nice unit as it not bulky looks comfortable compared to other masks.

http://www.achooallergy.com/mask-resproaeromask.asp

Laurie
 
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