System Light Dark

Theme editor

Page Setup Appearance

  • Page Width

    Toggle Page Width

    Allows you to change page width values

    Color Pickers

    Toggle color picker

    Allows you to change the color of some predefined items

    Typography

    Select the font you want to use

  • Styles

    Select the style you want to use

    Style variation

    Select the style variation you want to use
    System Light Dark
Scale Model Shop

Monogram 1/24 plastic/diecast Packard dual cowl pheaton

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Status
Not open for further replies.
Flash can be pulled off with a pair of pliers or cut off with a hacksaw then filled with a metal file I'm sure you could get one for that size , I'd just wash it then coat it with a metal primer b&q do there own versions cheep enough , the only glue I can recommend is superglue but there is probably a proper type you could buy

You are free then to paint it I would use enamels if brush painting or AB/rattle can is spraying
 
Thread owner
I would use an epoxy glue. The rapid ones would do as they set in around five minutes so can be pretty useful. I find them better than cyano as they tend to be easier to manage but I'm sure there are those who would prefer cyano. Cyano can be bought in liquid or gel form.

Be carefull though when you get to the windows as cyano will cloud the clear plastic unless you have a type designed not to do so. Most will use a PVA type glue (white wood glue) for the windows.

For painting I would go down to Halfords or a car body place. You can get off the shelf rattle cans of primer and the whole world of top coat finishes and colours so take your pick. If the surface is bad you might want to use a filler first or even a self leveling primer.
 
Thread owner
Yes that's what I'm worried about the kit has been knocking around a while and I think it was stored somewhere damp as the metal is quite badly corroded.
 
A light rub over with a nylon/plastic scotch brite and washing up liquid to remove any oils/contamination.

Wipe with panel wipe, using a lint free cloth,

Then I would use an etch primer before any other coats, to give a chemical grip for further coats.

Basically deal with it as you would any real car made of metal or alloy.

Having helped restore some old die-cast models in the past, this is the system we used!

Gregg
 
Thread owner
Thanks for all the good advice will take it all on board.
 
Thread owner
Best thing i find for diecast are small files, 400 grit wet-and-dry and wire wool.

Like Richard says, pva is best for windows, but can take a while to dry so clamp it well.

Also, you'll be truly amazed at just hoe good the final top coat of paint will turn out!

(if you can find a colour close to what you want, Hycoat car paint is as good as it gets!)
 
Thread owner
Hi all here is a small update started cleaning the bodywork, think I will have a lot of work here as the fit is not very good

View attachment 87245


Sprayed the engine black as per instructions.

View attachment 87246

View attachment 87247


I want to do a good job of this so thought I would do some research only to find there is no black on the engine, its green and silver so had to repaint it.

View attachment 87248

View attachment 87249

View attachment 87250

View attachment 87251


so that is where I am now.

View attachment 200268

View attachment 200269

View attachment 200270

View attachment 200271

View attachment 200272

View attachment 200273

View attachment 200274
 
Thread owner
Will be watching this! I fancy a diecast model at some point!

Sent from me to you
 
Thread owner
 
Thread owner
 
I build white metal ships in 1200 scale and I find after building that final rub with isopropyl alcohol removes any greasy finger marks and wax
 
Thread owner
Thanks for that tip Steve never built a diecast kit before so welcome any tips.
 
Thread owner
Hi guys and gals here is tonight's update.

I drilled out the Distributor so I could put the HT leads on

View attachment 87510


then I made the HT leads out of thin solder wire

View attachment 87511

View attachment 87512

View attachment 87513

View attachment 87514


then I cut them to length and squished the ends to make the tabs which go on the spark plugs.

View attachment 87515


View attachment 87516

View attachment 87517


then I noticed on the ref photos I've got there are some rivets and badges on the starter motor and the solinoid so I added them tooView attachment 87518

View attachment 87519


View attachment 200533

View attachment 200534

View attachment 200535

View attachment 200536

View attachment 200537

View attachment 200538

View attachment 200539

View attachment 200540

View attachment 200541

View attachment 200542
 
Thread owner
 
Thread owner
Just had a catastrophe with this sanded a bit of the corrosion off the body and resprayed it and all the paint blistered up (don't think I left it long enough before I painted it again) got it soaking in thinners now (insert swear word)
 
Thread owner
Very interesting project KP and out of the usual here. Nice to see your efforts.

Laurie

Just to add nice to hear from you Steve (Kir). you have been missing. Laurie
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Legal Notice

scalemodelling.co.uk is a privately operated online discussion forum. All content posted by members reflects their own views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of the forum owners or administrators. While reasonable efforts are made to moderate content, no responsibility is accepted for user-generated material. By using this site, you agree to comply with UK law and the forum rules.

Currently on our website
Members online
Threads 36,183
Messages 695,542
Members 2,509
Latest member Cusack77
Back
Top