discussion More glue help/advice needed - and a stoopid question

[Guest]

Just browsing Scale Model Shop putting a shopping list together of things I need ( 2 of everything please ) and I spotted these http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/pin-point-bottle-kit-deluxe-materials.html.

They look like a really good idea for someone as messy as me.Do you just fill them with glue? Are they compatible with super glue?

I'm currently using Revell Contacta and it seems perfectly fine but doesn't seem that strong for certain areas,is there a better alternative? Also ( and here comes the stoopid question ) is 'cement' just glue but under another name?

Cheers,Mick

 

[Guest]

I believe that the terms Glue and Cement are interchangeable, the only real difference I think is that Cement implies that it is stronger. I mean, it's what you use to make crushed rocks (concrete) stick together.

I'm not sure about your first questions, but I have learned that certain glues do work better on certain materials than others.

I'm not much of a modeller, but I can offer 2 tips that usually get overlooked, especially with time, and thats 1. Use the right tool for the right job, and 2. Read the instructions! again and again. As many times as needed until that step is finished. It's only when you start cutting corners (pardon the pun) that you will run into trouble.

 

[Ian M]

Hmm I use Revell contacta some times when I need large parts stuck together. Never had problems with weak joints.

Ian M

 

[eddiesolo]

Hmm I use Revell contacta some times when I need large parts stuck together. Never had problems with weak joints.Ian M

I agree I also use Revel Contacta and all has been well. I also use a two part epoxy, superglue etc depending on parts of the build or what the build is. One reason they maybe weak could be a dirty joint or not cleaned enough...or, and this may sound daft, not enough contact between glue and plastic I.E not enough glue.

Si

 

[Guest]

I use the Mr Cement S (available from John's Scale Model Shop) or sometimes Tamiya Extra Thin cement (not available in the UK, order from Hong Kong or Ebay).

They're both very similar although I find the Mr Cement S better because it evaporates quicker and leaves little trace on the outside of the join.

See here...

Mr Cement S at John's Shop... http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/mr-cement-s.html

Hope this helps.

 

[flyjoe180]

Revell Contacta is my go-to glue for larger parts too, when Tamiya Extra Thin won't do it.

 

[Guest]

Thanks as always for the replies.I'm perfectly happy with the Contacta,especially with the super fine tip, it's just that it was the first tube of glue I bought and thought I may be using it when there were better options.The only problem I've had with it was sticking an aerial to the top of a tank,the surface area was tiny so every time I went near it my fat fingers knocked it off.

The reason I was asking about the glue applicators from SMS is that when trying to use super glue I seem to get it everywhere so they may be a good option for me

Thanks again, Mick

 

[The Migrant]

I'm pretty sure that superglue would very quickly permanently clog up the fine metal tubing of that bottle kit, it's intended more for PVA type adhesives. If you want more precise application of styrene glue I'd recommend Tamiya Extra Thin Cement which comes in a bottle with a fine tipped applicator brush.

 

[John]

You could use the Pin flow applicator and plastic magic

There is also touch and flow or ca applicator

 

[BarryW]

We all have our favourites but, it certainly is a matter of horses for courses.

My main 'workhorse' is the Mr S Cement mentioned by Andy. It really is excellent stuff and I use this 80%+ of the time, exploiting its capillery action. Better than the Tammy version in my view.

I also have Contacta in my tool box, I use this when I want something slower drying and where I am not using capillery action and dont want it to evaporate before joining parts.

Superglue is what I mostly use for pe and sometimes to attach final fittings, where there are no stresses being placed on the part, as it will join painted parts.

Gator Glue I also use for pe and sometimes for transparencies

Crystal Clear is my main glue for transparencies.

 

[tanktrack]

well Mike, I have all of the above , i also bought the pin point kit I have yet to use it as mentioned , i think it would block if using ca glue , I have used the deluxe pin flow tool it is brilliant for gluing plastic parts with almost invisible joins , but I too keep going back to the revell it is great . my problem is mainly with sticking photoetch to plastic and not have it being messy , iv just recently bought the new ca metal tip applicators from the forum shop but have yet to try them . I have found that if you don't want to spend a lot of money but want the glue control and less mess is to buy a pack of sewing needles with different sized eyes and stick one to a piece of dowel or plastic rod and you have a ready made ca glue or plastic glue applicator in various sizes , just clean out the eye every now and again , I use my wife's aluminium trays from her tree light candles as holders of the glue that you are applying .

ps there are the old cocktail sticks also

 

[eddiesolo]

I use a paperclip for applying along edges etc, reason for this is that you can sand to a point if needed, it is strong and non-porous so the glue stays on the end. Cocktails sticks are fine but porous so glue does soak in to the wood fibres. Both are fine but depends on the build areas as to what you require.

Si

 

[stona]

I'd just add that if you are getting weak spots adding more glue is not the answer. Preparing the two mating surfaces to ensure good contact between the two is the way to go.

All these solvent based cements (or glues) act by dissolving a layer of plastic on each of the mating surfaces effecting a chemical weld. If you do it right this 'molten' ooze will fill any gap in the seam obviating the need for any filler and cleaning up with a quick scrape.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Thanks all for the advice,just ordered a couple of different super glues and the CA applicator along with a photo etch tool from SMS.

Fingers crossed it may improve my glue bombs