discussion My questions - I did forewarn you!

[Guest]

Billy there are conversion info sheets. Vallejo do their own with most manufacturers equivalents. Put model paint conversion into your search negine & it will come up with a good number.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Thanks Laurie

 

[spanner570]

Billy, when you've cleaned your tinlet rim and lid, then pushed the lid down tight, up-end the tin for a few seconds.....This will seal any microscopic air holes!

For large areas I use a good sized, good quality, flat / chisel head brush....00 pointed for detailed work.

One last thing, never try and cover with one coat of enamels. Always thin your paint...2 or even three brush coats are better than 1.

I don't use specific ratios, I just add a bit of turps substitute and try the consistency out on some spare plastic....a plastic cup does nicely.....

Ron

 

[Guest]

Thank you. Good tip on the paint pot.

I never thin paint, however I sometimes do more than two coats

 

[spanner570]

Thank you. Good tip on the paint pot.I never thin paint, however I sometimes do more than two coats

Billy, just give thinning (not too much) a go on a test piece or the underside of a model, you'll be surprised how much easier it is to get a good, even surface. The lads on here who use brushes only, produce stuff that is on a par with a.b's.! So go for it!

Tin hats on everyone............Incoming!!

 

[Guest]

Obviously you have never seen any of my hand brush work Ron ! And further more you never will. Out of the question. A major disaster area matched by few events in the annuals of model making.

Laurie

 

[stona]

Tin hats on everyone............Incoming!!

Nope! I've seen what you and others can achieve brush painting. It can be done. It's one thing that enamels do have an edge over most acrylics in. Despite airbrushing most of my models I still paint details or figures with a hairy stick and can achieve a reasonable result.

Cheers

Steve

 

[flyjoe180]

All of my builds bar the Ju52 and Phantom (which is still not finished) are hand brushed. For me enamels are the way to go when brushing.

 

[Guest]

I rally do like enamels and I'm going to stay with them - at least for brushing. I'll have to see how it pans out if I move to airbrushing.

I think I need to take better care of the tins though so there is no air allowed in

 

[flyjoe180]

Make a habit of cleaning the lip and lid of your paint tins when you clean your brushes, or you get that build up of paint which prevents the lid sealing properly.

 

[Guest]

I rally do like enamels and I'm going to stay with them - at least for brushing. I'll have to see how it pans out if I move to airbrushing.I think I need to take better care of the tins though so there is no air allowed in

For smaller surfaces when you want a really nice gloss I still prefer enamels. I usually use a new brush though and a new tin of paint to ensure there are no bits of dust or dirt in it and then paint it with smooth gentle strokes overlapping as you would with nail varnish. I always used to do motorcycle tanks and mudguards in this way and I've never been able to better the finish with an airbrush. Mind you that's probably as I've never been any good with an airbrush!!

 

[aaron]

Im a vallejo man but i am having a dabble in tamiya acrylics with great resultsI clean my ab with water when using vallejo and i use tamiya acrylic thinner when cleaning tamiya.

I use a pasche and two cheap airbrushes with a big 2.5 ltr compressor lol.

Theres some great vids on utube showing simple ways to clean between colours and total strip n cleans.

If your switching from enamels please use primer and renember more thin coats are better than a thick coat.

I also use klear to gloss before and after decals then i matt before pigments with vallejo matt varnish or testors matt spray.The testors is very hot so a mask and ventolation is recommended.

SWMBO was quite an easy sell on the compressor because it is a big one that can be used for kids tyres balls etc lol. Good luck.

 

[stona]

paint it with smooth gentle strokes overlapping as you would with nail varnish.

This is worrying knowledge Richard .......but quite right too.

Cheers

Steve

 

[spanner570]

This is worrying knowledge Richard .......but quite right too.Cheers

Steve

Had me worried too Steve, but as I don't use nail varnish, I'm safe.....Mind you, the way things are going in this world, it will probably become compulsory before much longer!!!

 

[Guest]

[quotFor then paint it with smooth gentle strokes overlapping as you would with nail varnish.

Oh Richard I have never had that experience myself !

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Had me worried too Steve, but as I don't use nail varnish, I'm safe.....Mind you, the way things are going in this world, it will probably become compulsory before much longer!!!

You mean it's not compulsory now??. No wonder I get stared at

 

[stona]

.If your switching from enamels please use primer and renember more thin coats are better than a thick coat.

Hi Aaron, I do use a primer under my enamels but I know many who don't. Enamels do adhere to plastic quite well it seems. I use a primer to serve as a light filler coat and invariably rub it back slightly with a very fine wet 'n' dry before applying the enamels. The primer coat also tends to show up any "nasties" in the surface or joins that I might have missed.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

If you are using Vallejo ( I do not have experience of other acrylics) definitely use a primer. Once a primer is applied the Vallejo range is prefect. No primer & it will flake off the plastic.

Goes without repeating, which is why I am doing it ( ok boring stuff but some are new to model making), wet & dry the plastic wash down & use a tack rag to get rid of hairs etc. before applying Vallejo primer.

Well done I have not had a problem.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

This is worrying knowledge Richard .......but quite right too.Cheers

Steve

Don't worry Steve I only do my toe nails!