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G
I'm beginning to do some weathering (of sorts). This is my medium...we'll see how well it goes before I resort to forking out a fortune for mud effects that I can't use straight from the garden :smirk:
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Here is a snap shot of the wheels...I think it looks pretty good so far anyway. The plan is to have the tank on a damp street of some kind. It will have been used cross-country to get to this point, hence the mud. I'll put some kind of clear glossy finish to make the mud appear damp.
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Tracks have been painted & I've added some 'wear' to them to make them appear to have been across a hard surface rather than just having been across a field. They'll need more attention later on.
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I'm not quite sure yet how I'm going to deal with the sides behind the running wheels. I'd like to have some caked on mud in places which I plan to use some kind of (household) fine filler...we'll see...
View attachment 319685
Here is a snap shot of the wheels...I think it looks pretty good so far anyway. The plan is to have the tank on a damp street of some kind. It will have been used cross-country to get to this point, hence the mud. I'll put some kind of clear glossy finish to make the mud appear damp.
View attachment 319686
Tracks have been painted & I've added some 'wear' to them to make them appear to have been across a hard surface rather than just having been across a field. They'll need more attention later on.
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I'm not quite sure yet how I'm going to deal with the sides behind the running wheels. I'd like to have some caked on mud in places which I plan to use some kind of (household) fine filler...we'll see...
G
Hi George,
Just caught up on your build, and so far can see nothing wrong that a bit more experiance would help. What can I add, except that we have all been there, change of scale, coming back to the model hobby, hiding from the wife and it is forums like this one where you can ask the questions no matter how weak they may seem and get logical answers and advice. If you intend to make German WW2 vehicles your main subject then the Osprey books on uniforms etc can be obtained second hand from ebay, plus of course we have good old you tube where subjects can go from a - b and back again. So keep up the progressive work and looking forward to more from you.
Cheers, Mike.
Just caught up on your build, and so far can see nothing wrong that a bit more experiance would help. What can I add, except that we have all been there, change of scale, coming back to the model hobby, hiding from the wife and it is forums like this one where you can ask the questions no matter how weak they may seem and get logical answers and advice. If you intend to make German WW2 vehicles your main subject then the Osprey books on uniforms etc can be obtained second hand from ebay, plus of course we have good old you tube where subjects can go from a - b and back again. So keep up the progressive work and looking forward to more from you.
Cheers, Mike.
G
Is that dirt plus water, or dirt plus water plus white glue? The former will rub off, the latter probably won’t (if you put enough glue in
).Damp mud is darker than dry mud, not usually more glossy
The tracks probably wouldn’t be overly rusted, and running on hard surfaces can produce a fairly shiny finish like you’ve got here. I can’t really tell what colour the tracks are now, because of their own shadows falling into them, but adding a dark or dirt-coloured wash all over them will probably give a good effect.
That’s another reason to leave wheels off a model until after painting: you’ll be able to get mud and similar effects behind the wheels without leaving a base-coloured shadow.
Hi George,
If you are going to use garden soil have you taken any precautions ? it at least needs sterilising to kill any bacteria that is found in your average back garden and untreated will continue to grow on your model along with any germinated weeds that are there.Wet mud is harder to get right than dried but it gives you a chance to experiment, but as regards rusurfacest on the tracks I can only see threflection of the table surface. Experimentation is the foundation of learning.
regards Jim
If you are going to use garden soil have you taken any precautions ? it at least needs sterilising to kill any bacteria that is found in your average back garden and untreated will continue to grow on your model along with any germinated weeds that are there.Wet mud is harder to get right than dried but it gives you a chance to experiment, but as regards rusurfacest on the tracks I can only see threflection of the table surface. Experimentation is the foundation of learning.
regards Jim
G
I am, and I have taken absolutely none I'm afraid...
I'm actually pretty pleased with the result. Here are the sides (done) sans wheels.
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The tracks aren't easy to photograph...something to do with depth of field which as of yet I've not been able to do successfully! So I'll try another one when they're on.
The transfers haven't come out well. At all. I have done an overall matt clear spray which has helped minutely. I did use the stuff Jacko suggested which certainly helped, but alas not enough.
It's the rough spray surface that's the problem. God I hate spraying...each time I pick up the airbrush I'm as nervous as on a first date! When it's done I'm left with a feeling of phew...I got away with that one! :upside:
The aerial 'rest' position has meant I've had to get the crew to paint the cross over it where it covers the hull, but they've refused to do the for'ard emblem, citing that it's too difficult <sigh>
G
Hi George,
Ref the airbrush, not a worry, you have lost your virginity there. It is a case of practice, practice etc. I have used one for years and I still get a bit worried when i pick it up after a spell away from it.
Ref your decalstry either brush painting or sprying a small area where the decal has to go with gloss varnish. You can cut a template and tear the edges so that you have a soft edge. Hold this a feww mm away from the surface and spray through the hole. Do not spray into the hole but pass over it while spraying. You just need the suggestion of gloss for the decals to settle. Then put the decal on using the decal setting solutions. I will put a couple of pics on here for you in about an hour, so you can see what I am babbling on about.
By the way the mud looks fine, not too little or too much.
Cheers,
Mike.
Ref the airbrush, not a worry, you have lost your virginity there. It is a case of practice, practice etc. I have used one for years and I still get a bit worried when i pick it up after a spell away from it.
Ref your decalstry either brush painting or sprying a small area where the decal has to go with gloss varnish. You can cut a template and tear the edges so that you have a soft edge. Hold this a feww mm away from the surface and spray through the hole. Do not spray into the hole but pass over it while spraying. You just need the suggestion of gloss for the decals to settle. Then put the decal on using the decal setting solutions. I will put a couple of pics on here for you in about an hour, so you can see what I am babbling on about.
By the way the mud looks fine, not too little or too much.
Cheers,
Mike.
G
Yep, you can see the silvering clearly around the emblems and inside the crosses — that’s to say, the transparent film on which the decal is printed, shows up lighter than the paint it’s on. This is caused by air being trapped between the decal and the paint, and is usually a sign of the paint having been too rough. There’s not really anything you can do to fix it other than remove the decal entirely, fix the paint, and apply a new one. The easiest way to smooth the surface is usually to apply a coat of gloss varnish, either over the whole model or only in the areas where decals are to go, then follow it up with matt varnish after the decals are on.
A bit more practice is all you need, really
G
Hi George,
Here is the pic I promised to illustrate my earlier comment, the size of the paper mask is your choice but make it large enough for you to handle comfortably, and you can lay other sheets over the model to avoid overspray. And I would spray about 40 to 60 mm away from the model so that you finish up with a soft application going through the hole.
You will notice that I have torn the paper and not cut it, this will give you a soft edge and less likely to capture the varnish and deposit blobs. The green arrow is the direction of spray.
Cheers, Mike.
View attachment 319835
View attachment 319836
Here is the pic I promised to illustrate my earlier comment, the size of the paper mask is your choice but make it large enough for you to handle comfortably, and you can lay other sheets over the model to avoid overspray. And I would spray about 40 to 60 mm away from the model so that you finish up with a soft application going through the hole.
You will notice that I have torn the paper and not cut it, this will give you a soft edge and less likely to capture the varnish and deposit blobs. The green arrow is the direction of spray.
Cheers, Mike.
View attachment 319835
View attachment 319836
G
Thanks Mike. I'll try to remember to do this next time. It's too late to rescue my dodgy decals now, but lessons learned etc... I assume that once the decal has dried on then spray over a matt finish to cover it up. I'm guessing this is a cheaper option than using 'Micro Set' which you put on the area the decal is going on first...but I still think with a surface like mine (very fine wet & dry grade!) that would struggle too :flushed:
G
Cheaper in the sense that you don’t need to buy a £3.99 bottle of stuff that will last you for about a decade
G
I've ordered some Micro Set. One of the little 'division' decals has just...disappeared ( :loudly-crying
. So, if nothing else it's giving me a chance to try out the varnish technique![edit] Well the varnish technique certainly helped. Still a bit transparent in places so I've (sort of ) fixed this by carefully painting around the edges of the decal with German Grey. I did this with the other decals earlier which did make I think just enough of a difference to hide most of the silvering.
<sigh> another lesson learned... :smiling5:
G
Wheels on. Stowage painted & placed (not glued yet...if at all) along with the jerry cans I did a while ago.
Crew in place. I'm still not overly happy with 'em but I'm not doing any more...distance is my friend here :smirk:
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The fit of the large back wheels (idlers?) is truly awful! They are very loose, so I've had to use a lot of glue! The trouble as well is that the tracks are going to be really tight & I'm worried the back wheels will just be pulled away from their setting by the force of having to pull the tracks together to meet at their joining point! I'm not sure why this is as, even for me, it's just not possible to have put any of the wheels in the wrong place...so I'm not overly impressed with this. But, it is a '70's build, so I s'pose I should allow for some crapness! :smiling:
In general I am pretty pleased with progress although I've no idea how many hours I've spent & are yet to spend on it...
Crew in place. I'm still not overly happy with 'em but I'm not doing any more...distance is my friend here :smirk:
View attachment 320013View attachment 320014
The fit of the large back wheels (idlers?) is truly awful! They are very loose, so I've had to use a lot of glue! The trouble as well is that the tracks are going to be really tight & I'm worried the back wheels will just be pulled away from their setting by the force of having to pull the tracks together to meet at their joining point! I'm not sure why this is as, even for me, it's just not possible to have put any of the wheels in the wrong place...so I'm not overly impressed with this. But, it is a '70's build, so I s'pose I should allow for some crapness! :smiling:
In general I am pretty pleased with progress although I've no idea how many hours I've spent & are yet to spend on it...
G
Well you should be pleased George, its looking good. Nice colour choice on the tools, and fuel cans.
John.
John.
G
George,
Knowing when to stop is the best policy, and there is nothing wrong with your finished model. If the rear wheels start to bend, take them off, let the glue harden and then re-drill the holes and replace the 'axle with a length of sprue and use ca to glue. What's next on the bench?
Cheers,
Mike.
Knowing when to stop is the best policy, and there is nothing wrong with your finished model. If the rear wheels start to bend, take them off, let the glue harden and then re-drill the holes and replace the 'axle with a length of sprue and use ca to glue. What's next on the bench?
Cheers,
Mike.
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