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Scale Model Shop

Papa 695s Guillows P40 Warhawk

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Nice choice Ian. I've have a Guillows 3/4"- 1ft. Corsair on the go, off and on, for a while now....wing span 30"


I've built quite a few of these balsa model aircraft. The best advise I can give is get a piece of insulation board or something fairly soft bigger than your model and buy a load of plastic headed modelling pins. The key to success with these things is to keep the initial fuselage build flat, square and true. Sounds obvious, but once the fus. is complete and not enough care was taken at the start, any twist is impossible to get out and it might as well go in the bin!


Best of luck
 
Thread owner
\ said:
Nice choice Ian. I've have a Guillows 3/4"- 1ft. Corsair on the go, off and on, for a while now....wing span 30"
I've built quite a few of these balsa model aircraft. The best advise I can give is get a piece of insulation board or something fairly soft bigger than your model and buy a load of plastic headed modelling pins. The key to success with these things is to keep the initial fuselage build flat, square and true. Sounds obvious, but once the fus. is complete and not enough care was taken at the start, any twist is impossible to get out and it might as well go in the bin!


Best of luck
Click to expand...
Thanks Ron


While I'm at it what's the best dope and glue to use ?
 
look forward to seeing this since ive got a DH Chippie for this GB, and like you, ive never done a balsa kit ever
 
I never seen one of this before.....


I will be watching with interest Ian ;)
 
Like it Ian , I'll be joining this one I think , even I should be able to complete something in a full year!! cheers tony
 
\ said:
Thanks Ron
While I'm at it what's the best dope and glue to use ?
Click to expand...
Ian, use proper balsa glue. Be warned, it goes off very quickly, so no faffing about.....


As for dope, there are plenty of makes to choose from. I threw away the empty bottle, so I can't remember the name of the stuff I used, sorry!
 
Just a quicky Ian, I tried using cling film - just once. I found I was for ever ducking and diving, trying to avoid the light reflections from the film. I gave up and never used the stuff again, preferring to pin the parts direct to the paper plan....As long as you are careful where the glue goes, you don't really need any covering, as such.


For most of the build, the wing ribs etc. will go on top of the leading and trailing edges, as will the fuse. ribs , so no real need for any protective covering. But do what you feel happy with and good luck with the model. Just make sure everything is nice and square and plumb with the bits stuck on the plan.....and use plenty of pins. The structure will try it's best to warp!
 
Thread owner
Thanks for the tip Ron I was just going with what the instruction tell you.
 
Hi I'm an ex balsa aircraft modeler hope this is of use to you


Use pva glue or epoxy or superglue and don't use shrinking dope on the covering use non shrinking dope or bannana oil having sprayed the tissue covering with water from a bottle atomizer this when dry will shrink the covering and make it taught the covering can be put on with thinned pva and a small brush if the tissue has a shiny side this goes outside


Hope this is of some help


Roger
 
years ago when I was a young person we used to rub a candle over the plans. It was supposed to stop you glueing the parts to the plan. Sometimes it even worked.
 
I've seen these in my local hobbycraft ( Fw 190 and the p40


I've never done balsa before but I'd be interested to see what this turns out like


I'm watching Ian


Regards


Robert
 
Agree about cyano, or even better, thin aliphatic resin - it's like a very runny cream coloured pva glue, but it wicks into joints and can be sanded very easily. If you want it to fly, stick to the aero modeller's well known axiom - "build in lightness"!
 
Great little kits, done several over the years fitting electric motors and R/C.


I fully agree with John, if going to fly it, make as light as possible.


Gregg
 
I personally would stay away from the traditional balsa cement as it shrinks a lot when it dries and will pull ribs out of line use an alifatic pva glue this will grab quick and is quite sandable


Roger
 
Last time I built one of these, I was very young using razor blades, there was that much blood on the plans from cut fingers I couldn't really see what I was doing most of the time :oops:
 
I have built plenty of these in my life time so I will be watching with interest as I might be tempted to join in.


Good start by the way
 
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