discussion Photo Etch woes

[Guest]

Hello all,for reasons unknown I thought it would be a good idea to have a crack at using Photo Etch parts on my current model.To say it was a struggle is a slight understatement,I was trying to bend with pliers,tweezers and even my fat fingers.Even if I managed to bend it I couldn't get it to stick to itself

Obviously I'm completely new to all this so why I thought using PE was a good idea is a total mystery to me,I wasn't sure what to expect but it was far harder than I anticipated.It hasn't put me off using it again but next time I would like to be prepared for the fiddly little buggers.

So my question is ;

Which glue actually sticks PE? I tried super glue (can't remember brand) and it stuck to the model but wouldn't stick the PE to itself (if I was trying to make a box or similar)

Which bending tool is worth buying? If it helps stop tiny pieces of metal pinging off in all directions across the kitchen then it will be worth buying to stop the mrs threatening to kill me every 5 minutes.

Thanks in advance, Mick

 

[Guest]

Hi there

Benders can be expensive but there is a little multi face bender for £20 that work a treat.

Pliers are a no/no it is important to get the best 90 degree angle you can along the bend line.

you can get special blunt face hand held plier but they can be expensive.

Superglue should be a good one and not these ones you get from cheap shops .You need to go to a good model shop preferably railway orientated and they do at least 2 bottles one with a blue top fast setting and one with yellow top not so fast setting .

Always apply super glue by putting it on a surface that is expendable(rubbish) and use a cocktail stick to pick it up and apply to the piece and hold in place until it goes off.

Theres a lot more to it but that will do to get you better results straight off.

 

[Guest]

I too will be watching this thread for answers as I am currently looking at a couple of models with a massive amount of pe parts.

the first is actually removing them from the sprue without bending them.

I think a clear Perspex block or something similar pressed down on the part before cutting.

bending so far hasn't been too difficult as they are scored on the bend lines very well.

I did suffer while bending some parts that were soft due to being grid plating so I too would like some kind of bending tool.

as for glue

I have only tried superglue (model shop brought medium thickness) and not really had any trouble. ive glued very small pe parts together with no probs (apart from sticking my fingers together) and it also sticks to the model very well.

something else I need to look into is high quality sprue cutters and high quality tweezers with sharp tweezy bits for accurate griping.

steve

 

[Ian M]

CA should stick PE without many problems. One thing it does not like is grease, from fingers for example or dust. That was two! Also less is more! If there is too much CA (superglue) it takes too long to set up.

Boxes are a pain as all the joins have to be well lines up with out to much or to little pressure.

John in the Scale models Shop has some very good tools for bending PE.

A way to stop bits pinging off into orbit is to put a bit of masking tape on the back so the part remains stuck in place when you cut it off.

I prefer to solder boxes, because I can. You can also use Gator grip glue, a form of PVA/acrylic glue that works very well.

Ian M

 

[Guest]

http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/trumpeter_tools_photo_etched_parts_bender_medium_79x59mm_-p-32801.html

This is the one I use you may get it cheaper else where

And on here Scale model shop he has these

http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/trumpeter-photo-etch-bending-tool-small-tm09933.html

currently out of stock

 

[Guest]

he also does superglues with the coulerd tops

http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=superglue

(well ididnt know ....I do now)

 

[eddiesolo]

As Ian points out one of the main reasons PE will not stick is grease-always make sure that the surface is clean and wear latex gloves when handling and sticking. You can use washing up liquid and warm water or rubbing alcohol to clean the surface. As mentioned a good quality glue should do the trick, certain superglues just will not bond to the brass sections. Hold using masking tape as Ian suggestions and you should be okay.

Check out the forum shop for bending tools, John has some good ones.

Si

 

[John]

http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/trumpeter_tools_photo_etched_parts_bender_medium_79x59mm_-p-32801.htmlThis is the one I use you may get it cheaper else where

And on here Scale model shop he has these

http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/trumpeter-photo-etch-bending-tool-small-tm09933.html

currently out of stock

I do all the Trumpeter one's when I have them in stock.

The most versatile one is the Bug SMS002 it does a much wider range of sizes than the cheaper one SMS001 which will only cater for 6 sizes, I'm out of stock of the SMS001 but more are due in Monday

 

[Ian M]

I can highly recommend the Bug. Get lots of use out of my one. A pair of Tamiya PE pliers are OK to for quick bits. A bit pricey though.

Ian M

 

[ojays]

I use either a glass fibre pen or vinegar for prepping my PE.

I often solder larger items as it gives a stronger joint, especially PE to PE

Haven't had any problems since doing this, prior to that had several bonding probs!

 

[Guest]

It doesn't quite answer your question, but I'd recommend the CA Applicator from Flex-I-File ( #805). Since I started using it, I've managed to stop collecting little brass ( and plastic ) bits on the tops of my fingers......

Cheers, Neil

 

[The Migrant]

I'm currently building an Eduard strip-down Fokker Dr.1, which is entirely photo-etch, so I can empathize; I despise the stuff. I do have a bending tool which is useful for some things:-

However for the majority of smaller parts I just use these Tamiya PE bending pliers, which cost me about $20 off eBay. I reckon they're good for about 80% of my bending needs.

Superglue is best where tensile strength is needed, but if I'm gluing small flat parts I use Gator-glue which is just a stronger version of PVA glue.

 

[Guest]

Thanks very much for the great in-depth replies and tips, they're greatly appreciated.

I've just had another go but it's turning the model into a complete glue bomb,I really should leave the stuff alone but I've paid for it so I'm going to use it

The glue I'm using is Loctite super glue and I think now that I was putting far too much on when trying to stick PE to PE.

I really want to buy some more PE for my next attempt at a model so looks like I'm going to have to invest in a tool.The Trumpeter one looks good value but is out of stock everywhere.I'll wait until payday then I'll bite the bullet and put an order in to Scale Model Shop

Thanks again everyone

 

[ojays]

I'm currently building an Eduard strip-down Fokker Dr.1, which is entirely photo-etch, so I can empathize; I despise the stuff. I do have a bending tool which is useful for some things:-However for the majority of smaller parts I just use these Tamiya PE bending pliers, which cost me about $20 off eBay. I reckon they're good for about 80% of my bending needs.

Superglue is best where tensile strength is needed, but if I'm gluing small flat parts I use Gator-glue which is just a stronger version of PVA glue.

Wow, I haven't got that sort of patience!

 

[Ian M]

Hope you can post a few wip photos of that fokker Mike.

Have you seen the Horten that is on the way..... Madness.

Ian M

 

[Guest]

Heat the parts in a candle flame . Does something to the metal, think it called annealing but it makes it easier to work with , obviously after it's cooled

 

[eddiesolo]

Heat the parts in a candle flame . Does something to the metal, think it called annealing but it makes it easier to work with , obviously after it's cooled

Annealing is the process of making the material more ductile and makes it more workable. Brass can be worked this way, but the material needs to be glowing hot then is allowed to cool in air, brass can be quenched in water. If the brass is not hot enough then nothing will happen to the structure to make it more workable.

Si

 

[ojays]

This is what I use for the soldering and annealing.View attachment 77946

View attachment 190969

 

[eddiesolo]

This is what I use for the soldering and annealing.View attachment 77662

Is that one of those gas operated jobbies Gregg?

Si

 

[ojays]

Yes from good old B&Q

And the fibre pen I mentioned to prepare my PE, is in the photo too

The little bottle on the right is the liquid/paste solder I use..