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Purchasing a new airbrush kit

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When I opened mine up, there was no muck to clean - it was still spotless!


I think the bit that Laurie meant was the white valve - if that got clogged then the compressor would have to work harder.


But as mine is the same as yours, I find it gets warm to hot if used for a while. And the hotter it gets, the noisier it gets too!


That's why I'm moving to a refrigerator compressor coz it's much quieter & doesn't seem to get anything like as hot.
 
thats what i find when using for some time,and mostly when doig the under coats,it will get hot,on


top of the piston ,and also the back part were the switch is ,


i was going to get a other type of AB maybe some think a big bigger to do the undercoating so its


less spray time to get it done,


but not real sure what to get ,maybe some think like a .5 needle with the bottle,?
 
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Great stuff Patrick.


It is the white one way valve Moni. Just push it gently away from its seating and inspect. Sometimes you get little bits and pieces stuck around the seating or the white edges of the white valve. If so it will not sit down and as Patrick mentioned willl let air out.


Laurie
 
ta Laurie,


will have to have a look at it ,and thks to you two i do know what im looking at,


as it is strange that if i use it today and pick it up to use in two or three days,


it will still have a full tank and run for only a few sec,untill it needs to top up, ;)


then doing a bigish figure ,and it needs to run more thats when i get the hotness,


on both ends without the fan on it,:rolleyes:
 
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Hmm I never leave mine with pressure in the tank after use. The seals aren't meant to take that kind of load.


Perhaps you could try depressurising it & see if that reduces the operating temperature?


Also, because it's still late summer / early autumn over there, get some freezer packs & place them near the air intake. The cooler air makes the compressor run more easily.
 
interesting this is,ummm so, to decompress it,just trun it off and hold down the trigger on the AB,or use the


water trap too ?


were is the air intake ,please i have no clue,?
 
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At one end Moni on mine there is a black plastic cover with many slits. This is it.


Coupled with this emptying of the compressor does the needle of your pressure gauge stay at pressure or does it go down to zero over night. If it goes to zero then you have a leak in the couplings to hoses.


Mix 25% washing up liquid with water and a paint liberally the stuff onto the hose couplings and the coupling joints on the compressor and tank one at a time with the compressor on and turned to say 40psi. Any leak will show as a bubble or loads of little bubbles.


Laurie
 
ta Laurie,will have a look at that,


and as i only did the connections up by fingers its quite possible that there is a leak,


will have alook and check them, ;)
 
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The air intake on mine (same as yours) are 2 pairs of slits on either side of the compressor body Moni.


Another way to check for leaks that's a tad less messy is to get a length of rubber / plastic hose. Pop one end in your ear (not too far!) & move the other end close to the fittings. This concentrates your hearing & allows you to hear any whisper of escaping air, even if the comp is running.
 
ta Patrick i will have a look at it next time im using it what will be in a day or do,


and remember to decompress it after ,used, ;)
 
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\ said:
leaks that's a tad less messy is to get a length of rubber / plastic hose
Tut Patrick it is only messy when you use that dreadful enamel paint. Please do not hit me I am fragile.:cool:


Laurie
 
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Hi all,


Thank you for all the contributions to my question. Laurie, I haven't got as far as what paints to use - guess thats for another thread, the JS2 will be my first attempt (although I might go with a few smaller things like a couple of cars first just to get the hang of it). John I am - thanks for your experiences. I'm very tempted to go higher up that the price range and accept the costs rather than risk going cheap and paying twice!


I don't intend to start the JS2 for a while as I've got an RC car on the bench at the moment so have some time to think. Thanks again chaps!
 
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Hi guys. Ive never tried airbrushing models before. I use enamel paints but i really want a top finish so i am looking at an airbrush kit. IE , compressor and airbrush. Could any of you point me in the right direction. Also , cost is an issue but id like to buy the best i can afford as i always said you get what you pay for.


Many thanks


Carl.
 
Thread owner
\ said:
Hi guys. Ive never tried airbrushing models before. I use enamel paints but i really want a top finish so i am looking at an airbrush kit. IE , compressor and airbrush. Could any of you point me in the right direction. Also , cost is an issue but id like to buy the best i can afford as i always said you get what you pay for.
Many thanks


Carl.
Hi Mate. Try getting as much as you can afford. An Iwata Eclipse HP-CS or Iwata Revolution (still preferably the eclipse) will do everything you need. An AS-18 compressor sells for about 100 Australian dollars and is an affordable, good compressor that can be adjusted with the pressure gauge and it has a water trap as well. Always get a branded airbrush. If going for the iwatas, do not go for the Neo. It has features that are not beginner friendly. The eclipse really is the easiest to use and it really is quality


John
 
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I have used cheap airbrushes over the last 6 months since getting back into modeling they are ok to get started but they went wrong a lot in the end I bought a Badger 105 never looked back it's stunning and does everything from very small pencil lines to massive coverage jobs it runs all day long at about 18psi I love it and it was worth the £89 I paid for it
 
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