discussion Scud B

[Jim R]

Hi Mike
Glad the decorating is done. Oh such fun :rolling:
Suspension is so often fragile. I suppose it is the manufacturers trying to get good detail to scale and styrene being weak when in small sections. Your replacement brass rods will be so much better.
Jim

 

[Isitme]

Hi Mike
Glad the decorating is done. Oh such fun :rolling:
Suspension is so often fragile. I suppose it is the manufacturers trying to get good detail to scale and styrene being weak when in small sections. Your replacement brass rods will be so much better.
Jim

Hello Jim,
The 'pins' for the wheel hubs are about 1mm in length and the same square. These if you follow the instructions clip onto the disc/hub, then comes the fun of connecting the suspension arms to the hub, and that is where you run into the problem. Because you have to use a bit of grunt and force to get the arms to clip onto the hub, then the 'pins' suffer. I managed to break three out of four. But the ironic thing is I thought at the start of assembly that I should have just drilled and pinned :tired:..... So you now have a working suspension - well not really because if you connect the kit shock absorbers, these then as supplied fix the suspension in place..... see my next update.
Cheers
Mike.

 

[boatman]

VERY WELL DONE Mike on this build as it looks very complicaited but im following your proggress an you say the cab tilts forward so will it be hindged so it can go up an down as thats how i would do it if it was me building it as that way you got the best of both worlds
ATB CHRIS

 

[Isitme]

Update.
The suspension in the kit is workable, but once you attach the shock absorbers then they negate this feature. You can of course replace the shocks and drill out the locations for these to be pinned later and retain the working suspension. Or you can replace the kit shocks and once the model is located on your base/diorama the new shocks can be added and cemented in place showing the movement and avoid the 'dog having a P' effect......

So above is my method for replacing the shocks.
Both ends of the kit items are cut off after being drilled all the way through using the locating holes as a guide. These are then cut away and the rest of the shock discarded. A length of Aluminium tube is cut using a Stanley knife rolled back and forth to seperate the tube. Also at the same time cut two lengths of plastic rod, to stop any distortion a drill is placed in the tube as support. The end pieces are now drilled to accept the plastic rod, one piece for the shock itself and one for the mounting as seen on the finished item. Once dry then they can be painted ready for adding to the model.
I should add that at the beginning of the build the components for this model can actually be built as seperate units - chassis, cab(s), launch arm and missile etc and then all can be assembled and painted and assembled into the final item as you wish - the instructions would have you build as a progress and paint along except that you will be adding to stages already painted, or if left to the end a big struggle with painting. No big thing, but thought I would add this finding to help out.
Mike.

 

[Isitme]

Update,
Work has not stalled, but the Scud is slowly appearing. At the moment it is just follow the instructions, paint and then glue.... And really if it was not pointed out you would not realise the difference, even I become confused with it.
The shock absorbers have now been finished and painted and are on the sidelines waiting for the suspension to be set up on a base (not even ready yet) before being attached along with the drive shafts.
So at the moment doing some catching up on a long ignored scratchbuild which I want to get completed before Xmas. So bear with me, that means stay with me and not take off all your clothes - that is bare - and i will post when I have something to actually show.
Cheers
Mike.

 

[Allen Dewire]

Hi Olderthanme,

Nice to see you back at the bench and driving on with this biggie thing Mike. You always do a bang-up on your builds too. All eyes on this one now. Hope you guys are ok and doing well. Please take care.......

Youngerthanyou (Ret.)

 

[Isitme]

Hi Olderthanme,

Nice to see you back at the bench and driving on with this biggie thing Mike. You always do a bang-up on your builds too. All eyes on this one now. Hope you guys are ok and doing well. Please take care.......

Youngerthanyou (Ret.)

Hello Youngerthanmeperson,
Unfortunately still around in some eyes, and still here to stir the pot. Yes we are still ok and faring well. I have just spent a couple of months trying to get these bone idle MP's of ours to shift their derrieres and get us old retired HGV drivers back to work as they did with the NHS staff, but as usual they are ignoring the problem and throwing money at the fire.
As for the build, as I said it is still ongoing with little to report at the moment or you can sit through the boring "Today I stuck the gas bottles together - tomorrow I will stick more things together....":tired:..... or you can have some of this.....

Modelled with a background of that music you get in a hotel lift when you are all staring at the walls waiting for the posh lady to drop one :tongue-out3:......
Next week will be back on the Scud working on the rear end lifting area for the missile.
So take care Youngerthanmeperson.
The Olderthanyouperson.

 

[Isitme]

Update,
Still progressing slowly on this build, but getting there.
Yesterday I built up the front bumper - 23 peices - and now along with the tow rope now in primer.
The shock absorbers are now fitted and the ride height has been set...

Shock absorber ready for mounting...

All fitted into their place and weathered later.
And still not finished with the chassis build - still only three more stages to go...
Mike.

 

[Guest]

Update,
Still progressing slowly on this build, but getting there.
Yesterday I built up the front bumper - 23 peices - and now along with the tow rope now in primer.
The shock absorbers are now fitted and the ride height has been set...

Shock absorber ready for mounting...

All fitted into their place and weathered later.
And still not finished with the chassis build - still only three more stages to go...
Mike.

I should like to point out that there is nothing wrong with my Gas Bottles ( see latest update ) :smiling3::nerd:
Pointy Shoes Club President.

 

[Guest]

Update
OK, some confusion, I started this build way back in 2021, it was then shelved and since then has been lingering in the stash and waiting to be completed. I was then working under my alter ego as 'Is it me' or Isitme....
Anyway I have decided it is now time to revive this build and finally get it finished, plus I really have no idea about what to do after the Centurion build. So now it is going to be spending an evening working out where I am with the build/construction and then carrying on.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Jim R]

Well Mike, although I'd forgotten this I've had a catch up and it's good to see it back on the bench. A lot of good work has already been done so worth resurrecting. Unless your memory is a lot better than mine you'll need at least an evening to figure out where you're at and what's next.

 

[boatman]

AND Mike is it you or not lol

 

[Guest]

Well Mike, although I'd forgotten this I've had a catch up and it's good to see it back on the bench. A lot of good work has already been done so worth resurrecting. Unless your memory is a lot better than mine you'll need at least an evening to figure out where you're at and what's next.

I think I have it sorted out, the trouble is and was, I had to keep going back and forth between the Trumpeter instructions and the downloaded Dragon instructions because the etch set(s) were only available for the Dragon kit at the time. So it is now underway or will be tomorrow after a good nights sleep.

 

[Guest]

AND Mike is it you or not lol

It is me alright, I rejoined after a short break (24 hours), Britmodeller was not for me, I could never stick the latest Challenger Megatron together and have it painted in a week :smiling5:.

 

[Guest]

Update,
Managed to do some work on this monster, the chassis has had a wash of dried dirt, the control bins between the rear wheels have been added and it now has legs, all eight of them and not one of them doing a dog having a P impression.... Mind you I must have set up the suspension before I shelved the kit before which helped.




Instead of adding the decal dials I first punched them out to get the correct size as the 'border' around the decals left a lot to be desired. I think I will soften down the weathering a bit more looking at the pics.
More later
Mike.

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Drooling again, sorry!

 

[Guest]

Drooling again, sorry!

I'm used to it now, just keep a mop next to the laptop... SWMBO passing by "I see Neil has commented again...."

 

[Jim R]

Instead of adding the decal dials I first punched them out to get the correct size as the 'border' around the decals left a lot to be desired.

That's a common problem with decals intended to fit inside a moulded, raised bezel. I've never understood why the carrier film extends around the decal dial. Makes them very difficult to place neatly.

 

[Guest]

Update,
So there I was thinking 'Well, it's only a few pipes and tubes....' Then I found I great walkaround and downloaded a few photos (63) of the details and once I have sorted them out and moved them through Photoshop to get a chonological order of where pipes start and end, then it will be back onto the build proper, untill then it will be just tinkering a bit here and there, plus ordering more 'lead' wire...
Cheers
Mike.

 

[Guest]

I've never understood why the carrier film extends around the decal dial.

It’s difficult to print the decal right up to the edge of the transparent bit, I assume. More difficult than printing the inks in the right place relative to each other, anyway.