discussion Slower setting filler?

[Guest]

I am finding Squadron Green Filler starts setting within about 30 secs or less which I find is too fast for anything other than narrow seams. Is there one that sets much more slowly please? (I have Mr. Surfacer 500 but that is for very shallow areas.)

 

[Guest]

Not sure of the size you are talking of filling Steve.

But I have a number of cards of plastic of different thicknesses. If I can fit a card into a seam I then cut to fit & using the same glue as you would for the model glue fit into position. You then have a smaller area to fill plus you are not relying on filler to fill the joint & which will not be as strong as the plastic card filled joint.

Also with filler it is sometimes necessary I find to build in layers.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

So far I haven't come across a gap wide enough for plasticard and which is also fairly straight (no kink). The gap I am asking about would be about 1 mm wide, a (rather badly fitting) wing root. I found it difficult to smooth it before it started to set.

However, I read somewhere that the use of a q-tip wet with some solvent (would that be cellulose thinners?) can be used for smoothing (the top layer) of Squadron, and I guess it might also keep the filler softer for longer. Would that solve my problem? I will have a go next time (I have cellulose thinners in stock).

 

[colin m]

For gaps of that size, I've used stretched sprue in the past. As Laurie says, it will produce a much stronger joint.

 

[Guest]

So far I haven't come across a gap wide enough for plasticard and which is also fairly straight (no kink). The gap I am asking about would be about 1 mm wide, a (rather badly fitting) wing root. I found it difficult to smooth it before it started to set.However, I read somewhere that the use of a q-tip wet with some solvent (would that be cellulose thinners?) can be used for smoothing (the top layer) of Squadron, and I guess it might also keep the filler softer for longer. Would that solve my problem? I will have a go next time (I have cellulose thinners in stock).

I would class even .5 mm as to wide for filler cards are available will go into much less than that.

As Colin says either use sprue or card which will make a joint near as strong as the plastic of the model as it fuses together & does not reply on adhesion as does filler.

Used in difficult situations I have used two part epoxy but I avoid as I find it so difficult to apply & clean up.

Laurie

 

[stona]

Card,stretched sprue for those "just too wide for filler" gaps described above.

For real monsters I use an epoxy filler like Milliput. It sticks,dries hard and,crucially,doesn't shrink.

Solvent based fillers are only really good for very small gaps or imperfections.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Now thats a neat repair job Steve.

I've been getting (not quite so neat) similar results with cutting up old yougart pots and using those, there's a few different thicknesses of plastic in the construct of the pot which helps no end, a thin skim of tippex and a little scrape and sand and it's good enough to throw paint on.

 

[Guest]

Yes, a very nice filling job. What did you use for the final filling? Mr. Surfacer 500?

With my first model (not yet finished) I filled a seam on the flat top front of the fuselage that was very small (ie, not wide, just like a crack) with Mr. Surfacer 500 three times and sanding each time, until the only sign of it was the different colour of the plastic and the Mr. S 500. It looked fine even under an eyeglass but it was still slightly visible after priming, and later on. I will just need to fill and sand several more times in future. I'm getting there!

The Spit. in your gallery (perfect!), I notice that the line between the two camo colours seems sharper than it would be using the white tack worms method but not too sharp (to my eyes). Is it 1/72 or 1/48? I have been experimenting. What method did you use for masking when applying the darker colour?

 

[stona]

Hi Steve and glad you like the Spitfire.

After I'd sanded the plastic to fit I finished the job with a solvent based filler. Looking at the picture I reckon I used the Tamiya stuff. I'm not a fan of the Squadron putties but there are plenty who are!

The camo on the spit was masked with Blu-Tac. Because I wanted a fairly tight demarcation I pushed the "sausages" fairly flat and then filled in behind them with tape. I try to spray at right angles to the surface of the model which then gives a fairly consistent and sharp(ish) demarcation.

The kit was the Pacific Coast Models (PCM) 1/32 Spitfire XIV. There's a build here which explains more the trials and tribulations of a limited run,multi media,but very nice kit

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/planes-helicopters/15935-pcm-1-32-spitfire-mk-xivc.html

It rather peters out,but I did post some piccies here.

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/planes/16123-completed-spitfire-xiv.html

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Thanks. I have just completed adding the second camo colour to my present 1/72 with white tack sausages filled in with Tamiya tape. The taping took ages, both to put on and take off, it sticks hugely to the white tack. Next time I will try the method demoed by Phil Flory, without tape, just airbrushing along the line of the appropriate sausages. (Being able to count up to two will be important!)

 

[stona]

I will try the method demoed by Phil Flory, without tape, just airbrushing along the line of the appropriate sausages. (Being able to count up to two will be important!)

That method is doable but you must be VERY careful as you spray. There is a tendency,once the Blu-Tac is removed,for a slight overspray to become evident on the previous colour. It is made more obvious by the "virgin" area left where the Blu-Tac was.

Before you try the method on a model I'd suggest having a go on an old clunker or some scrap,just to make sure you are happy with the result.

I know that Flory likes quite a soft demarcation which doesn't work for me on most RAF subjects. Each to their own

Cheers

Steve