Yeah, I wondered about that too. I'm using primer mainly to improve how well the paint sticks to the plastic. I can't see how using acrylic paint as a primer will allow acrylic paint as a finished coat to stick any better!
Stynylrez - again!
- Thread starter Gern
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Yeah, I wondered about that too. I'm using primer mainly to improve how well the paint sticks to the plastic. I can't see how using acrylic paint as a primer will allow acrylic paint as a finished coat to stick any better!
G
The reason is because not all acrylic paint is the same. Water based stuff like Vallejo or Lifecolour shrink as they dry, which is the limit of their grip. Paint something small with corners with VMA, and once it's dry handle it for a bit. It won't take long for the paint to start rubbing off, especially along the edges. That's because the paint has stretched & is thinnest at the edges.
Alcohol based synthetic acrylics like Mr Hobby Aqueous or Tamiya behave more like enamels & provide a better chemical reaction with the model's surface.
You'll not find too many users of enamels or Tamiya et al complaining of poor paint adhesion if the primer stage is skipped. That's the bailiwick of Vallejo aficionados.
Another advantage of using Tamiya paints as a primer is that it sands down very well - unlike Vallejo!
G
Actually Phil Florey reviewed Stynylrez and in doing that relegated approx 5 other primers to the bin. Tamiya he did not but rated Synylerez the tops.
My thoughts on Stynylrez which I have used since it appeared.
1. An awful name.
2. An awful paint to clean up.
3. That is the worst.
4. It is as self leveling as I have seen in all the primers I have tried.
5. It sticks to plastic like no other primer . It impossible to rub off. (It still requires a properly prepared surface)
6. It dries to a very thin coat despite its glutinous look in the airbrush cup. It does not fill detailed area such as panel lines etc..
7. It is dense. Very dense yellow the most difficult of colours will obliterate any colour with one coat. Used yellow over black (one coat) for propr ends.
8. It dries almost instantly. It is handle-able after 5 minutes or so.
9. It can be sanded after an hour. It sands especially with wet and dry to as smooth a finish I have seen. Transition between Stynylrez and plastic is perfect it does not flake or crumble. Will fill very minor scratch areas without a sink effect over the scratch.
10. It takes Mr Surfacer without any adverse effects which cannot be said for any other acrylic primer.
11 After refilling and sanding a make good coat with Synylrez over the affected areas will reveal a perfect finish. No marks of the filled area and none where the old and new coat meet.
12. Will take paint, Lfecolor Mig Ak Vallejo etc. within the hour.
13 Comes in grey black yellow grey and white. It is Acrylic/Polyurethene. Badger suggest using a .5 needle plus using their own airbrush cleaner. It can be airbrushed and hand brushed. I use a .4 needle with success.
Sound just perfect not found any reason to suggest otherwise except item 1 and 2 above. None of the above is an exaggeration.
Stewart
My thoughts on Stynylrez which I have used since it appeared.
1. An awful name.
2. An awful paint to clean up.
3. That is the worst.
4. It is as self leveling as I have seen in all the primers I have tried.
5. It sticks to plastic like no other primer . It impossible to rub off. (It still requires a properly prepared surface)
6. It dries to a very thin coat despite its glutinous look in the airbrush cup. It does not fill detailed area such as panel lines etc..
7. It is dense. Very dense yellow the most difficult of colours will obliterate any colour with one coat. Used yellow over black (one coat) for propr ends.
8. It dries almost instantly. It is handle-able after 5 minutes or so.
9. It can be sanded after an hour. It sands especially with wet and dry to as smooth a finish I have seen. Transition between Stynylrez and plastic is perfect it does not flake or crumble. Will fill very minor scratch areas without a sink effect over the scratch.
10. It takes Mr Surfacer without any adverse effects which cannot be said for any other acrylic primer.
11 After refilling and sanding a make good coat with Synylrez over the affected areas will reveal a perfect finish. No marks of the filled area and none where the old and new coat meet.
12. Will take paint, Lfecolor Mig Ak Vallejo etc. within the hour.
13 Comes in grey black yellow grey and white. It is Acrylic/Polyurethene. Badger suggest using a .5 needle plus using their own airbrush cleaner. It can be airbrushed and hand brushed. I use a .4 needle with success.
Sound just perfect not found any reason to suggest otherwise except item 1 and 2 above. None of the above is an exaggeration.
Stewart
G
My apologies I should and meant to add. The above are my observations from my experience and no-body else.
Feel free to add both to the advantages of this primer or challenge where your experience does not match mine.
Stewart
Feel free to add both to the advantages of this primer or challenge where your experience does not match mine.
Stewart
Just had another look at this one. I use the same method he does when I spray acrylics and it seems to work fine, but I do give a strip down clean after a few sessions.
The only thing he doesn't mention is the pressure he's spraying at. It sounds quite high, but I can get my brush to spray OK at around 30 psi so that's not a problem.
G
What Steve said. After some of the stuff I have read about Styylrez, it sounds like way more hassle than its worth. Nothing saps the joy out of a project for me more than wonky primer or paint.
As for cleaning, I too avoid taking the airbrush completely apart every time. I know lots of people do, but I haven't had a problem yet just doing a full strip when it starts acting weird (which is rare) or after completing a few projects.
The one thing to watch on window cleaners for cleaning the airbrush, is ammonia content. While it does work good, the ammonia can attack the chrome on the brush. Once the chrome starts wearing through to the brass underneath, it becomes harder to clean as it is more porous than the chrome.
G
Well, my first bottle arrived this morning, reading the instructions, I notice that they recommend a 0.5 or larger nozzle at 20-30 psi. Phil Flory was blowing it through a 0.25 nozzle IIRC, albeit a very high quality one, and it seemed to work fine for him. He also cleaned it out very simply, so I'm interested to see how that goes (mind you, we have no idea how many out-takes there were ^_^ ) so I'm gonna try it through my new single action with a 3.5 nozzle. Maybe onto a bottle first, don't want to ruin my Saladin...
It works perfectly through a 0.4 John so I would expect the same from a .35.
This is a good point. I flirted with acrylics a few years ago, before deciding that they were more trouble than they were worth for a variety of reasons, and this is what using ammonia containing cleaning agents did to one of my Iwata brushes during that period of about a year.
View attachment 263644
The brush still works, but I tend now to use it for spraying acrylic varnishes on the grounds that I'll make this one worse and not damage any others
Cheers
Steve
Attachments
G
Barry speaks the truth, 0.35 is fine - it shouldn't work, it's really thick - but it does, and how! I've tried a few Vallejo primers, two or three rattle can varieties and this is the most painless and clean stuff yet. Rattle cans give a good surface, it's true, but they do stink (cellar is getting grey!!) and you lose 70% to the overspray. But I found Vallejo so cloggy and crap, I stuck with the cans - not any more. Another interesting thing that International Scale Models review pointed out, is the absence of overspray - no idea how that is, but delighted .
View attachment 263647
The finish is quite superb, already hard and little gaps in the tie-down loops, where Dragon decided to make the recesses too large, have filled beautifully! The airbrush cleaned up easily, using water first, then Vallejo airbrush cleaner (point taken about the ammonia boys!) and bobs my uncle!
On a side note, I'll be holding back on shelling out on the Iwata genuine model of this:
View attachment 263649
At £20 it's a steal and works brilliantly - I put some PTFE tape on the needle adjuster at the rear, as it was a little light for my taste, but other than that it is a belter. You do have to remember to make the first touch off the model, as single action brushes sometimes spit a little on the first press, but after that, sweet as a nut. Highly recommended.
View attachment 263648
.View attachment 263647
The finish is quite superb, already hard and little gaps in the tie-down loops, where Dragon decided to make the recesses too large, have filled beautifully! The airbrush cleaned up easily, using water first, then Vallejo airbrush cleaner (point taken about the ammonia boys!) and bobs my uncle!
On a side note, I'll be holding back on shelling out on the Iwata genuine model of this:
View attachment 263649
At £20 it's a steal and works brilliantly - I put some PTFE tape on the needle adjuster at the rear, as it was a little light for my taste, but other than that it is a belter. You do have to remember to make the first touch off the model, as single action brushes sometimes spit a little on the first press, but after that, sweet as a nut. Highly recommended.
View attachment 263648
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