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Stynylrez Primers

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John

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I've been emailing Badger about their primers but no one seems to get back to me, they finally have, I now have trading terms with them so I will be getting the primers in, so I have an ideal of what to initially get can you choose 2 or more options from the poll.


Approx prices


60ml £5.59


120ml £9.69


473ml £27.99


946ml Not sure it might be a bit too big to bring over, see what the poll says
 
after using a bottle size of 120ml,finding it dose give the change of the paint going off,


I would stay with the 60ml,just for the season of not having to over shake it to mix it up,as I did read


that over shaking can make the paint separate ,and also ,that the mix will stay much the same for


the whole bottle,unlike a the bigger ones,I find you tend to get different lays of thickness,


maybe just me,:rolleyes:
 
Unless you use it a lot, I would not recommend any paints in bulk. I would say that 60 and 120 are great for the average modeller. I am trying these out and I have the 60 and to be honest, they are going to do a lot of work. I thin with IPA, you will read much contradicting advice on this, and it works fine for me.


It looks thick but I have sprayed a small amount through a .2 nozzle successfully, I wouldn't attempt a large area. I believe Badger recommend unthinned through a .4 nozzle or very slightly thinned.


I have to say that this is a beautiful primer with great self levelling properties. It also dries fully and is sandable within 24 hours allowing feather edged sanding, which can be a pain with Vallejo which can tear.


Like any paint, you need to find your way of working with it but it really is a fantastic primer.
 
Thread owner
I've just arranged for my order to be collected and it should be with me in a few days, I've noticed UMP have own branded this and because of that the only other distributor has dropped his prices by quite a bit, so I've updated mine


60ml £4.59


120ml £8.69
 
Probably because I build mainly in 1/32 I opt for the 120 mil or even larger, the larger I offer better value.


As for colours, I use them all as these can themselves be part of the pre-shading process. Because most plastic is grey it can be difficult to see clearly where you have sprayed using that colour which is where the other colours come in. I will often use the white and black as base colours as well.
 
By the way, an afterthought. I see the neutral yellow does not have many votes. Well yellow, as a colour, is notorious for bad coverage, well I found that this yellow primer does actually cover quite well so used in conjunction with your yellow base coat, whatever shade, it solves the coverage issue.
 
Thread owner
\ said:
What colours did you go with John?
All of them, but not too many yellow, I didn't get the 473ml bottles because as Adrian said he's been using the 120ml for 9 months, I will probably get some on my next order, what did surprise me was Badger don't seem to hold stock, they make it to order, so at least you know it's not been sat on a shelf for weeks or months before I get it.
 
\ said:
What colours did you go with John?
Hi graham I have not heard of these primers before and normally go with Val but have noticed the tear issues when sanding after.


I'm just thinking of getting a white or grey but because I like using Tamiya/ Revell Aqua/ Vallejo paints I'm just wondering how they react with the new primer.


Advice from more experienced is always better


Regards


Robert
 
\ said:
Hi graham I have not heard of these primers before and normally go with Val but have noticed the tear issues when sanding after.
I'm just thinking of getting a white or grey but because I like using Tamiya/ Revell Aqua/ Vallejo paints I'm just wondering how they react with the new primer.


Advice from more experienced is always better


Regards


Robert
This primer will be fine Robert. I have used all three over this primer with no problems at all. Give it 24 hours and it will feather sand with no tearing.


It is a bit odd to spray. Badger recommend a .4 needle at about 30psi straight from the bottle. I thin with IPA at about 40% IPA to 60% paint at 30psi through my .2 needle. I will be getting the .3 needle set to help out a bit though.


To me, the smooth fine finish is on a par with Tamiya rattle can which, again for me, is one of the best primers out there.


I had given up on primers but so far, I am really happy to use this stuff. The black primer on the Waffenträger was Stynylrez and it was almost a shame to spray over it.
 
I agree with Graham. Sprays beautifully. I spray with a 0.4 needle usually about 20-25psi unthinned with no problems.
 
It's gotta be me then!


I tried this Stynylrez again today. This time thinned with about 20% IPA using a 0.3mm needle at around 28 - 30 PSI. My A/B was sputtering and coughing and spitting and eventually stopped spraying completely - although I still got air through the nozzle, there was no paint.


Then I had to completely strip it down to clean it. I used meths, IPA, Ultimate Cleaner and Vallejo Cleaner and none of them was particularly successful - I practically had to scrape my A/B clean. I don't think it was the brush as I used it to spray some Tamiya paint and it worked beautifully.


So far, I've used the Grey, White and Black ones through both my H&S brush (with a 0.4mm nozzle) and my cheapo Chinese brush; and I've tried them all neat and thinned with IPA up to about 30%, and I get the same problems every time.


To be fair, what little I have managed to paint has come out beautifully, but where am I going wrong?
 
more thinners Dave, I am at about 40/50% thinners through .2mm needle. Mix well in a separate container before adding to colour cup. Contrary to what I have read, it does not appear to suffer from thinning. Only other point, what rate (%) is your IPA? I have read one account of Rubbing Alcohol which is about 70% and added water, causing the paint to actually thicken up and gel. No idea why this should be, The IPA I use is advertised as 99% but the bottle states 100%.
 
I started using Stynylrez a little while ago initially using my Badger 105 Patriot, and straight from the bottle I also had issues with it clogging the airbrush at 25 PSI. I added about 20-25% Tamiya X-20A and it was much better.


Then I tried an ancient Badger 350 airbrush with an "H" needle. I upped the thinner to 30-40% and sprayed at 30 PSI, This combination worked out the best for me, it went on very well. I have since designated that old 350 as my primer only airbrush. A large tip seems to be the way to go with this primer. I think one reason that might be contributing to the clogging issue is the fact that the primer dries very quickly. The instructions on the bottle say to let it dry 5-8 minutes and it's ready for paint. Three minutes if it's force dried.


I think it is an excellent primer once you get the knack of it.


RG
 
Thread owner
I've read a lot about these primers and thinning is a bit of a no no, thinning any primer makes it a paint. a larger needle/nozzle is the answer.


From what I've read thinning them will reduce their self levelling propitites, and will also make them not adhere to the kit as they should.


As I said that's what I've read, I've not tried them yet.
 
Thanks for the replies.


Graham - I added my IPA to the thinners bottle itself. Allowing for what I've used and how much IPA I've added, I'm estimating I'm up to about 20%. It doesn't give me a % on my jar of IPA. I seem to remember ordering 99% but that must have been about 5 years ago. Maybe I should think about replacing it?


Ralph - I've also read it's very good, which is why I'm persevering. I spray at around 30 psi and I'm wondering if a higher pressure would help. I don't want to go too high though 'cos I only have a small portable type spray booth which I don't think would catch all the spray from high pressures.


John - I swapped the needle on the H&S brush I got from you and I'm using the 0.4mm - the largest I have. I really don't want to have to be swapping and changing needle sizes every time I swap between thinner and paint so I'll have to keep trying with the 0.4mm.


I agree that primers should not be thinned, but I just can't get it to flow through my brush any other way. I've been using the Halfords spray primers which always work really well for me, but I want to find a primer I can use in my A/B as I have to use the Halfords one outside. I've tried the Vallejo ones and I'm not really impressed - I just wish I could get this one sorted! :(
 
\ said:
Thanks for the replies.
Graham - I added my IPA to the thinners bottle itself. Allowing for what I've used and how much IPA I've added, I'm estimating I'm up to about 20%. It doesn't give me a % on my jar of IPA. I seem to remember ordering 99% but that must have been about 5 years ago. Maybe I should think about replacing it?


Ralph - I've also read it's very good, which is why I'm persevering. I spray at around 30 psi and I'm wondering if a higher pressure would help. I don't want to go too high though 'cos I only have a small portable type spray booth which I don't think would catch all the spray from high pressures.


John - I swapped the needle on the H&S brush I got from you and I'm using the 0.4mm - the largest I have. I really don't want to have to be swapping and changing needle sizes every time I swap between thinner and paint so I'll have to keep trying with the 0.4mm.


I agree that primers should not be thinned, but I just can't get it to flow through my brush any other way. I've been using the Halfords spray primers which always work really well for me, but I want to find a primer I can use in my A/B as I have to use the Halfords one outside. I've tried the Vallejo ones and I'm not really impressed - I just wish I could get this one sorted! :(
Primers rearing their ugly head again, I've only used Vallejo since I started middling last year and I haven't had any problems. I'd like to try stynylrez purely for its fast drying times.


I spray at 20psi with the flow wide open, ball bearings in the primer bottle and shaken really hard, never thin. I use a h&s airbrush exclusively for priming now and strip and clean it after every prime. I even have plans for a Iwata (probably something like a HP-TH) airbrush at a later date, this type of AB will give a broader, easier flowing, even coat. If you hate priming and just find it a headache this may be the perfect solution for you.


Phil
 
\ said:
Thanks for the replies.
Graham - I added my IPA to the thinners bottle itself. Allowing for what I've used and how much IPA I've added, I'm estimating I'm up to about 20%. It doesn't give me a % on my jar of IPA. I seem to remember ordering 99% but that must have been about 5 years ago. Maybe I should think about replacing it?


Ralph - I've also read it's very good, which is why I'm persevering. I spray at around 30 psi and I'm wondering if a higher pressure would help. I don't want to go too high though 'cos I only have a small portable type spray booth which I don't think would catch all the spray from high pressures.


John - I swapped the needle on the H&S brush I got from you and I'm using the 0.4mm - the largest I have. I really don't want to have to be swapping and changing needle sizes every time I swap between thinner and paint so I'll have to keep trying with the 0.4mm.


I agree that primers should not be thinned, but I just can't get it to flow through my brush any other way. I've been using the Halfords spray primers which always work really well for me, but I want to find a primer I can use in my A/B as I have to use the Halfords one outside. I've tried the Vallejo ones and I'm not really impressed - I just wish I could get this one sorted! :(
I tend to use the 0.4 needle for most of my spraying, using the 0.2 only for when I am doing very fine detail like mottle camo, Badger themselves recommend a larger needle. I also would suggest that using ipa is itself a problem. Try first of all spraying unthinned with the 0.4 at 25-25 psi and, if you need to thin use Vallejo or AKI or thinners rather than ipa or anything else. These seem to be a better 'chemical match' than ipa or Tamiya that can turn some types of paint into a sludge.
 
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