discussion Subaru 98 Monte Carlo - beginners recovery attempt.

[takeslousyphotos]

This looking pretty good ........


Peter

 

[Guest]

I

What a good idea. Mine was still tacky feeling after 2 weeks.

I'll post an update after the mica blue goes on as to how using the dehydrator goes with that and the humbrol clear I'm thinking about putting on top.

 

[Marc Stock]

Be careful with humbrol clear. I didn't get good results with it at all. It cracked up like a spider.

 

[Guest]

Be careful with humbrol clear. I didn't get good results with it at all. It cracked up like a spider.

what paint did you apply it over, what ratios did you use and what were the drying times you used etc...


I would like to know so I can maybe give it longer or make adjustments in case I suffer the same fate :/


cheers mate

 

[Marc Stock]

I used it over enamel to seal in some decals. 0:1


Your supposed to be able to airbrush it right on, it's very watery; runs easily and isn't very durable when dry it chips easily too.


The cracking occurred on the sides of the model; I have been able to reduce the effect by sanding; but i'm going back to humbrol gloss coat with 1:1 thinners. It's much harder, not as runny so it stays put.

 

[Guest]

Thanks mate, the fact that you say it's not suitable worries me, I want to wet and dry and polish the body. I just bought Ferrari paint from hiroboy and could have gotten their 1k clear but thought maybe this stiff would have done the job. :S not so sure now but... This is my test model to really get to grips with things so I'm not going to lose much sleep over It. Hmm

 

[Marc Stock]

If your going to colour sand; humrol clear deffo won't be the way to go. I tried that too and that's how I discovered it chips easily leaving pits in the sanded surface.


If you really want a flawless finish, I'd go with a matt coat, let that cure/harden for a week and either.


Go for your 1K clear.


Or if you are colour sanding skip the clearcoat and build from 2000 all the way to 12000 and apply a model polish. This will take a long time but the results are amazing.

 

[Guest]

It's Tamiya mica blue so I was not sure about sanding the base coat, I know people sand and polish flat colours but I heard that metallics should just be clear coated And then polished?

 

[Marc Stock]

Yes sorry I was assuming a flat colour. But your correct.


You could go with a clearcoat on top, if colour sanding though I'd go with a clearcoat that is hard and durable.

 

[Guest]

Cheers mate

 

[Guest]

Bought some alclad lacquer today and have 2 test pieces on the go which I am being brutal with to see what I can get away with. Wish I bought the 1k but I only heard about the 2k and how dodgy it is so avoided looking at their lacquers .


This has had another coat of primer as of earlier, I had realised the skirt along the bumper had no scribed line where I had filled the lower lights. It looks better than in this photo. I am learning a lot about how not to prime before building haha


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[Guest]

That's the primer on again, hopefully now ready for the last major sanding and light priming.


I have learned a good bit about why its best to dry fit extra parts and prime them first as I ended up filling in wee bits at the valance at the bottom, chipped paint after adding the vent and spoiler and have problems with bits of flakes of plastic in the door and bonnet lines I re-scribed.


I couldn't make my mind up about adding some parts later (spoiler and bonnet vent) but thought to glue them better I would rub off some paint and glue them on before painting leaving the bonnet light attachment until after painting as it would interfere with painting the light recesses. I should have fitted the light covers later with a suitable glue as there are probably meant to be lines around them but they would not have been a perfect fit, especially with a good few layers of paint on. - One thing I am chuffed with is the textured dash, I thought the straight paint looked awful and most dashes have a slight texture so I used a bit of foam with Grey enamel paint to make it rough and it looks really good... Yes the dash is my show piece!


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[Guest]

Have done a wee bit of the dash work over the last couple of nights when I can grab 5 mins. my Brush painting skills are terrible and I can't get the best ratio of thinners to paint with the Tamiya stuff so one brush stroke goes on, the next takes half off - too much thinner I think? :/ The body has had a tad more sanding but again I've missed a few wee bits so those will be sorted then its ready for painting but I still cannot decide on the best course of action as I'm being told contrasting opinions on what clear coating I can and can't use and some of my test pieces have proved that I need to try something different.


You can see I got some printed panel for the floor where I lost the Photo etch piece years ago, the dash has a good bit more painting to go and I put some clear on the dash insert for adding a decal tomorrow maybe. Enjoying the learning curve.


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[Guest]

Thats looking proper tasty i tell ya

 

[Guest]

I think for a recovery it's not bad but I prefer chocolate for tastyness!


I bought 3 more recovery models fir practice on eBay...


An italeri hokum


An academy apache


a Tamiya Ferrari 360


The hokum and Ferrari have small amounts built but less than this hunk of junk!


Cheers

 

[Guest]

I think for a recovery it's not bad but I prefer chocolate for tastyness!
Cheers

Mmmmm.... Chocolate, just had me a packet of Munchies.... Top that

 

[Guest]

Mmmmm.... Chocolate, just had me a packet of Munchies.... Top that

Missus brought me home a Greg's donut which I ate half of and I had a couple of m&m's after painting... Touche haha.


I'm a chocoholic. Never going into rehab

 

[Guest]

Tonight I have tried to hide the poor seat finishing with some flocking - the idea being that it looks like Alcantara. It has gone... ok... sort of. It took a good few tries to get a good enough coverage and as I thought- the flocking looks out of scale. I did hear a tip on another forum that painting and adding flour on top before it dries then airbrushing the flour can give a good effect, maybe this will be the route I take next time.


As for now this is the result (I'm not sure whether it looks better or worse in the palstic!):


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[Guest]

This is looking good so far.


scott

 

[Guest]

the engine bay from here is not good haha, forgive me father for it was done when I was stupider - I wish I had of known about thinning the Tamiya paint or airbrushing for the radiator as the paint was way too thick and filled the detail up.