discussion Tamiya 1/25 Tiger I Update 2/11/16

[Guest]

A work step by step, very very "scientific", cheers

 

[Guest]

You may ask, indeed. The pipe is part of my video camera stand for doing overhead shots for my YouTube channel. It is temporary since it was kind of a stop-gap measure until I can do something better. The pipe is PVC plumbing pipe.
As you can see, in order to get the work area to line up in the frame of the video, the base has to be twisted a bit and it drives me NUTS! I like stuff lined up properly: parallel and perpendicular. I am going to make another one that actually fits on the top of the sides of my work area so none of my desktop itself is taken up.


View attachment 143344

What a great idea, thanks Brett, great progress on the Tiger.

 

[flyjoe180]

Looks good Brett, nice job ion those wheels

 

[Guest]

The camouflage is up next. Here is a progress pic of the hull and turret.


View attachment 245878



View attachment 245879



For painting the camo on the wheels I used the same template method as before, but used the outer part of the tape instead of the circle. I cut them out and then cut them apart and apply them.


View attachment 245880



When removing the template from my cutting mat, a small bit of stretching can occur to the tape. To counter this I simply snip one side and wrap the template around the rim, overlapping the cut end a wee bit.


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After that it was airbrush time.


In the next episode I will be discussing the track assembly and painting.

 

[grumpa]

Just caught up with this.....EXCELLENT!...................Jim

 

[Guest]

Thanks Jim.

 

[Guest]

Looking great, corking camo!

 

[Guest]

Thanks John. I haven't sprayed camo on a tank since the '80s, but figured if I can do it on a 1/48 scale aircraft, it shouldn't be too difficult on a 1/25 scale tank!

 

[monica]

The camouflage is up next. Here is a progress pic of the hull and turret.
View attachment 145847


View attachment 145848


For painting the camo on the wheels I used the same template method as before, but used the outer part of the tape instead of the circle. I cut them out and then cut them apart and apply them.


View attachment 145849


When removing the template from my cutting mat, a small bit of stretching can occur to the tape. To counter this I simply snip one side and wrap the template around the rim, overlapping the cut end a wee bit.


View attachment 145850


After that it was airbrush time.


In the next episode I will be discussing the track assembly and painting.

what a great idea,but how do you cut out the holes so very neat,? plz


as it would save so much time,

 

[monica]

this is looking good,do like the dark green ,patten will have to do one like that as well,

 

[Robert1968]

Wow and wow again your making this look like an engineering dream come true. Caught up on this and your theory to the wheel painting is awesome ( Saves buting lots of masks that you can use only once and also it's a very good idea too ( nice wee tool )


Loving what you have done so far and there's so much detail in this


Regards


Robert

 

[Guest]

Sorry about it being almost two weeks since the last update, but work is picking up with the nice weather, I went to Disneyland with me wife for a couple of days, and the stuff I am doing on the model takes a bit longer since paint is involved and it has to cure.


So, anyways... I got the Tiger painted and a clear coat applied. I have seen many opinions on clear coats versus no clear coat, regular hobby brand clears (i.e., Model Master, Vallejo, Tamiya, etc.) versus Future. Personally, I prefer a clear coat, and I use Future. Future is cheap, and goes on very thin. I also find it easy to clean the airbrush afterwards. In my opinion, a clear coat makes decal application easier, and gives me a good base for the weathering process, starting with a wash. I have found that an acrylic wash directly onto acrylic paint doesn't work that great for me. So, a base of clear goes down first.


After the clear coat, it was time for decals. I was quite worried about the kit decals since they are 25+ years old, but figured I would give them a shot. Amazingly enough, they worked fine. I soaked them a little longer than normal, but after that, they slid right off and stuck with no silvering, or tearing. One thing I didn't like was the strange matte finish they had. I don't know if that was due to the age of the decals, or if that is the way they were printed.


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Next, I worked on the tracks a bit. I gave them a dark reddish wash, then black.


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Since I forgot to spray clear on the wheels for weathering, I did that next.


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Then I applied a black wash using Vallejo Model Color black, heavily diluted with water.


View attachment 247104



Next up will be chipping, then some weathering.

 

[monica]

this is looking great,Brett,very good progress so far,

 

[Guest]

Very impressive work on this build Brett

 

[Guest]

This is coming along really well, cant wait to see the final product.

 

[Guest]

what a great idea,but how do you cut out the holes so very neat,? plz
as it would save so much time,

Sorry I didn't respond to this sooner, Monica... I just now saw it. I will do a photo thing in a bit and post it outlining what I do, and where i got the device I use.


Everybody else, thanks for the compliments! This project has been a lot of fun and it is turning out a bit better than I had anticipated.

 

[Guest]

Monica, and anyone else that is interested, I posted my wheel masking technique in the Painting Chit-Chat forum.


http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/how-i-mask-and-paint-wheels.33597/